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Discussion Starter #1
One quick question...

After a quick study of the firewall on my '95 4.6, it seems to be fairly impenetrable...

Is there a "most common" or "best practices" way to route the wires? Is there an existing hole that can be used?

I already have all three gauges that will end up in one of Mager Thom's triples, but am probably going to mount a double gauge pod before they become available.

Thanks, in advance, for everyone's help!
 

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At least one of the mockups....

was supposed to have been sent last Friday. I'll take pictures
and post 'em as soon as possible after I get it(them).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry MagerThom!

I was NOT trying to bust anyone's chops about the speed at which this project was progressing!

Good things come to those who wait (and work).

Lord knows, I waited two years to get the dang car!

But -- to anybody -- I'd sure love to hear how you've gotten through the firewall with your additional gauge wires!

Or, if I've completely missed a posted article about how this is done, feel free to bust MY chops and tell me where it is!

Thanks, everyone!
 

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i went through the steering shaft boot. or you can drill one, and put a grommet in. poke a little hole through the HUGE steering shaft boot. you using mechanical or electrical gauges?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tip...

...and I'm using electrical gauges, because they're the only ones I could find with green LEDs to match the rest of the displays, without worrying about matching typefaces, needle colors, and such. They're full black when the car is not running, have a high reading memory, and they're "dimmable" at night as well.

Normally, I wouldn't be interested in digital gauges, but I figured I've give it a shot.

If I can get these to work right, I just might go after that A/C temp display to get it to dim at night too!


Not looking forward to sitting in the spaghetti that used to be my wiring harness,
 

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Which gauges did you end up getting and from which company? I have been looking for digital gauges but with a blue readout, however Dakota Digital is teh only company I have seen with those so far (mega expensive)
 

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Hey I think we got the same guages. I thought I was the only one with digital guages. I got cheap with the wiring. I pulled it though the fender, then though the rubber boot with all the wires going to the door. I will try getting a picture of it. To me to works well but you can see the wires with the door open. (got my trans guage wire and the power for the amps running take way)

 

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Discussion Starter #8
The gauges are...

...from Nordskog Performance via Summit Racing.

The websites:

summitracing.com
nordskogperformance.com

Summit's part numbers for my green LED gauges:

NRD-M9007-G Trans Temp (50-350 degrees)
NRD-M8034-G Fuel Pressure (15-100 psi)
NRD-M9017-G Boost (0-16 psi)

BlackTBird -- looks sharp! That's where I'm headed! Great minds think alike! (Okay, maybe you got a great mind, and I'm just copying off your paper, but I can live with that! LOL)

Tazer -- I saw red and green -- but no blue. Still might be worth a phone call to the Nordskog mothership! If they hear about a "hole" in the market, they might get motivated to come up with something affordable! It's really just a matter of throwing a different color LED set in there.

Thanks for the info, and still listening to any suggestions on wire routing!


With 306 miles to go before I sleep,
 

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You trans guage goes from 50-350? I think thats the red ones. My green one goes from 0-350. Let me know how that fuel pressure one installs. Im thinking about getting rid of my air/fuel and getting fuel pressure and water temp. Get guages that mean somethings.

Damn it, now im not the only one with digital guages
 

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am i the only one with carbon fibers?

everyone and their mom has the white face, so i tried to switch it up....



 

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where does you trans temp sit when you are driving? mine get up to 210 in about 15-20 miles on the expressway but i think my sensor is getting heat from the engine too
 

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I think I am going to have to go with digital seeing as I can't find silver faced gauges with red needles to match my speedometer etc.

Oh well, I am going to get the air/fuel digital one, and tranny temp. How hard you think it will be to change the led in the tranny temp to blue?
 

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here are silver face w/ an orange/red needle. autometer's.
 

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What kind of autometer is that? Phantom or something? How much were they?
 

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VERY nice install....

where did your Climate control panel end up? Is that it in
your console....can't quite tell.

Again, nice work.
 

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autometer ultra lites. the volt was $36, the water was $38, oil was $36. quite nice too. i have changed my interior lighting to blue, and bulb covers make these glow kind of a greenish/blue indiglo look. mager, the climate control is in the bottom slot. the face that is on it now is a white face, and i wanted more of a silver/gray one. i have the new one to put on, just haven't had time to do it. here is a pic. btw, if anyone wants the old white one, pay the envelope fee and its yours. its curled a bit, and geno didn't cut out the holes too good. but, if you just want something to experiment with, its yours.
 

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I must ask, how much of pain a was it move all the heater core wires? Thai is a slick lookin' set up you have. are all th e'94-'97 the same for the dash, I'm going to try something close that for an SC. Could you drop me an e-mail with some tips for moving the temp. controlls

[email protected]
 

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e mail doesnt work. i tried and it was returned. u sure its right?
 

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Would you send me your....

BR1 said:
e mail doesnt work. i tried and it was returned. u sure its right?
write up also, if it's not inconvenient.

I'd very much appreciate getting an idea of how you moved
your Climate Comtrol Panel.

Thanks,
 

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It was quite easy. The 94 through 97 should be all the same. All you do is unplug a harness of vacuum lines. They are molded into a plug that unhooks from the back of the climate control. There are also like 3 or 4 wire harnesses that plug into the back of it. There was one set of wires that was a tad short, but they do make the move. Nothing has to be spliced, the vacuum lines are long enough also. The lower DIN hole has to be trimmed out a bit. It has a lip in it that the upper/original climate control DIN did not have. A razor blade takes care of this. it was pretty easy to do. The vacuum lines are held in by a clip behind the glove box, I took them out of the clip to gain a bit more length. I would advise taking out the glove box to do this so you can see the wiring, and the vacuum lines.

hope some of this helps. if not, let me know.
 
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