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I have a (probably very) silly question.

I have a 1991 Cougar XR7, 5.0HO, with A/C that's currently non-functional (have not yet checked at clutch to see if it's got voltage, but the cycle switch has voltage in and out, and the WOT relay has voltage in and out ... so it's headed that way.)

I pulled a compressor off a 1989 Cougar XR7 (3.8SC) on Saturday, and it was even still under pressure.

The COMPRESSOR sans clutch and pulley is a direct interchange, however, with clutch and pulley it's not.

The 89 seems to have more ribs than the 91 does (haven't counted, but the old one off the 91 isn't as deep a pulley as the 89 is).

Given that - would there be a problem using the 89 as-is on the 91 if it's necessary to get A/C this year? Or is there another consideration I'm not seeing? (Stupidity abounds - I'd rather be stupid in a question than in something I did.)

RwP
 

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As long as the belts and lines line up properly, I say go for it! :)
 

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The SC motors used a 8 rib pulley. The 5.0 should be a 6 rib. You may get the belt to ride on 6 of the 8 ribs and be ok
 

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Im pretty sure the the pullies interchange. But you definitly have to swap at least pullies
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The SC motors used a 8 rib pulley. The 5.0 should be a 6 rib. You may get the belt to ride on 6 of the 8 ribs and be ok
That's what I was thinking, but thought I'd ask in case it's a "Oh noes you'll destroy the belt!" kind of thing (I'd HATE to replace that new radiator because a serpentine belt chewed it up going WHACKWHACKWHACK at 2500 RPM ... )

Might not need to - but was grabbing before that car was crushed. Since it still had Freon on it, should be OK, I think.

BTW - Yah, I'm leaving the car at R134 since I have that, can't get R12. (Car's been converted, the car I pulled the compressor off of had been converted.)

RwP
 

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That's what I was thinking, but thought I'd ask in case it's a "Oh noes you'll destroy the belt!" kind of thing (I'd HATE to replace that new radiator because a serpentine belt chewed it up going WHACKWHACKWHACK at 2500 RPM ... )

Might not need to - but was grabbing before that car was crushed. Since it still had Freon on it, should be OK, I think.

BTW - Yah, I'm leaving the car at R134 since I have that, can't get R12. (Car's been converted, the car I pulled the compressor off of had been converted.)

RwP
A new(rebuilt) compressor costs 130-150 on ebay. Place in Dallas I bought my last one. Works great.

Wouldn't it better to just go that route?
 

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A new(rebuilt) compressor costs 130-150 on ebay. Place in Dallas I bought my last one. Works great.

Wouldn't it better to just go that route?
Considering I got it with a boatload of other stuff (4 ARC shocks off a 67Kmile XR7, two sets of front strut rod ferrules, complete save for evaporator AC out of a Dodge Dakota for the stepson, a pair of Escort front seats for the stepson's other car, master cylinder and booster for the wife's Malibu, and a boatload of odds and ends for the six cars between me, the wife, the stepson, and HIS wife) for $100 ...

But I found one remaned for $68 ... HOWEVER, I think the problem, if I have one there, is the clutch. So I could yank the clutch off the original compressor (there was a hint it was bad when I bought the car - there was a compressor in the trunk in box!) and swap that on. Just not sure, wanted to ask first.

If it's not the compressor or the clutch, but the wiring, then I'll probably put this compressor up for sale fairly cheap with the caveat I never saw it run, don't know that it DOES run, but that it did have pressure when I opened the system on Saturday.

(I've already checked the cycle switch and the WOT relay - all that's left is the clutch and the wiring to the clutch. So ... going to have to put it up on ramps to troubleshoot THAT, alas.)

RwP
 
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