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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. I'm going to be completely lame here and ask for a picture. Much like in real life, I'm not so great with written directions that don't give me any visual reference.

Where do I connect the handy dandy recharge can to for a 1997 4.6 to make my AC cold again?
 

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Thanks! The picture was very helpful...but it didn't solve my problem.

I hooked the gauge into the line to see where my pressure was and it was flipping from 20-45 about every other second as the unit cycled. This was with the AC set on maxcold.

Huh?


It still puts out cold air sometimes, but once it's hotter than 75 or so outside, I can set the AC on 60 max cold full blast and it's slightly cool at best.
 

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thats because it is low on freon. When it has enough it will stabilize out. Right now the low pressure switch is cycling because the pressure it too low, ie not enough freon.
 

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If you have one of those "fill'em up" cans with the gauges on there it should have a "charged" indicator somewhere on the dial.

I always try to charge mine to be around 40 ~ 45 degrees at idle with 250+ psi on the high side. Or at least somewhere around there....but since you don't have a high side gauge it is somewhat difficult to get a full charge. So for you I would just test the system out adding a little bit at a time, you don't want to overcharge your system, and stop when it works normal.

However on a side note, A/C systems do not "use" freon (not that you said that but anyway). If you are having to add freon you have a leak in your system. Sometimes the leak is small and you can get away if adding freon once a year, but save yourself the trouble, time and money and fix it right the first time. *gets off my soap box*

Good luck!
 

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coolness

I picked up one of those "fill-em-up" cans with the gauge, as on some hot days so far, it's pushing cool air, but not real cold. I checked the low side with air on full @70* ambient, and the gauge followed the compressor cycling a couple times a minute from a low of 25 to a high of 45, the indicated normal or filled range. Is this normal? The system seems to be operating normally, and on this 70* day, the air was cold from the vents. guess I'll have to re-test on a hotter day??

I didn't add any, not wanting to overfill, 'till I checked on here to get some opinions??? Input very welcome.

thanks.
 

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You know, I have replaced a lot of pressure cycling switches recently, this is the switch that is on the drier....I have begun to recommend replacing them at 100K at this point, as they are a contact-point-style of switch...and just like the old contact point ignition systems of old, they get to the point where they don't work correctly, either. It easily unscrews, and has a schrader valve right behind it so you don't evacuate the system when you pull it off, takes maybe two minutes to remove and replace. Just a thought, before you begin adding more R134A to the system, possibly overpressurizing it.
 

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If you really need to know. The answer to your question is: the low pressure side line is very big in diameter. The high pressure line is the small diameter line. You'll notice a difference. The big diameter line is where you install the Freon. DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE HIGH PRESSURE LINE. It will explode the can. I think now that you can only put it on the low side. May be wrong. Just look for the larger diameter line.
 

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thats because it is low on freon. When it has enough it will stabilize out. Right now the low pressure switch is cycling because the pressure it too low, ie not enough freon.
holy thread resurrection, ect, but I wanna make sure I understand this...

when it cycles between 20 and 45 it's low on freon, and needs to be charged. What should I see when the freon is fully charged? Will it just stay on 45?
 

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The reason it is dropping down to 20 in the first place is: there is NOT enough R134 in the system... When you get a good charge it should stabilize around 28 to 32 lbs.. When you get it up up about 25 or so the low pressure switch will stop cycling..

Hope this helps!!!!
 
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