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Discussion Starter #1
If you used AC refrigerant with a sealer, did it work, or did it plug the system, creating the need for more expensive repairs?
 

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I wouldn't use something like that. Just add a little Freon periodically. And I do mean a "little" Freon.

A lot of cars running around with overcharged systems from a DIY job. A good way is to measure the temp of the air coming out the vents, and add just enough until the air coming out is 20 deg below ambient.

The kits with a temp gauge and a squeeze trigger are nice. Just squeeze the trigger for a few seconds, and re-check the temperature.

The way the pro's do it is evacuate the system, then add the appropriate amount. Since Rob did that on my car, it has been cooling nicely. Though it seems now it could use a squeeze or two out of the can.

I started taking the kit with me on long trips. 6 hours at 75 MPH with the window down in my old '95 prompted that!

Al
 

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It may or may not fix the leak. But like Rocket said .. if you're just charging to temp, you're not doing it correctly. The system relies on having the proper amount of refrigerant to maximize efficiency. The proper way to fix is to evacuate, replace seals, charge to spec and test for leaks afterwards.
 

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I have never had the sealer work. The only good thing about it is it usually has the dye in it too, which makes it easier to find the leak. If the system is down on refrigerant, there is a leak, and the proper repair is to find and fix the leak, then evacuate the system, and recharge with the appropriate amount of r134. Oh and as for the 20 degrees below ambient, that is a system that is not charged properly! When I repair or recharge an AC system, I aim for blowing less than 30F out the vents, and no AC job will leave my shop blowing higher than 35F, even in 90F+ temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now What's Wrong?

Obviously the proper fix, when money is available, is to replace all necessary parts, purge, pressure test, fill, etc.. The front compressor seal is shot.

Therefore, as it isn't terribly hot here is southern Oregon for very long, I'm okay because the car isn't a daily driver. I should say, up until this afternoon I was okay with no air.

Here's what happened. I needed some fresh air without windows or moon roof open, and I put the auto climate control to panel, temp set at 60 degrees, fan set just below auto, at low speed. After making a couple of short stops for errands, climate controls still on, but now it's approaching 80 degrees outside, and as I'm listening to the radio, not thinking about the fan running on the panel setting, and temp still set at 60 degrees when all of a sudden the fan acted as if it was stuck on auto, (very high speed), air stopped blowing through dash vents, but the floor vents, the temp control panel went dark, the temp control buttons don't work, and if I shut the car off, and restart, I have the same systems.

Did I blow a fuse, is the blend door stuck, what's wrong with my poor girl? There's no way I can drive with the loud fan stuck on high blowing outside air.
 

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I had everything but the compressor replaced three years ago for about $600 and was fine for two summers. A/C stopped a couple weeks ago. I had noticed the compressor cycled a lot but I had cooling and left it alone until this month when no more cooling arrived. I even got a free new crack in the dash for my money.

Today I put two 11 0Z cans of 134a in the car and the compressor finally stays on and I'm at the charged level on my gauges. Time will tell what happens next but I am going to start shopping for parts to see what is out there and saw your thread.

I'm not familiar with your symptoms but I would suggest shutting off the fan and opening the windows/roof on the odd day it's not raining libtards in Orygon.

My only other experience with A/C charging was a Chevy Malibu I picked up for gas mileage and charging it did not last 24 hours. It went down the road to a new owner but I will try more parts for the 'bird first.

I came on here looking for older stuff more directly related to my issue but your a/c issue is timely with mine. Good luck.
 

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I'm looking to replace my AC condenser in the next week or two.

Also, both the low and high side valves on my system leak. AND the orifice tube is on the replace list. So the AC system on my car is getting some serious attention. Any suggestions for sealing or replacing leaking valves? The caps help some but they should be a last line of defense.

I also just ordered a new Cold-Case Radiator. Going to upgrade / update the cooling system from one end to the other. For both the motor and me. :D
 

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There are kits for the valves. Check RockAuto. The kits come with 4 valves to service the pressure switches too. The valves are very similar to tire valves so maybe a tire valve core tool will work. Looks pretty cheap and simple.

I just added some r134a to another car. The car had gone 8 years since the last AC work. I got the manifold at Harbor Freight and a can tap at the parts store and 2 cans of r134a for less than $100.

The system had dye added to it. The green dye can be helpful to find leaks. My car doesn't seem to have a visible leak. But I did manage to spray a little from the high side and there was green all over. So it would be hard to miss. Apparently, the dye glows under UV light. Another car dripped green dye from the compressor o-rings and it was easy to see. A shop overcharged it and then several o-rings blew and left green spots on the garage floor.
 

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First determine which type of port you have. Some have replaceable Schraders and some don't.

https://forums.tccoa.com/2028026-post5.html

Also, the dye isn't useful if you have a slow leak inside the evap core. A huge leak that's streaming out the drip tube, sure, but with a slow/small leak your best bet is to use an electronic sniffer in the vents (but be sure no scent emitting products have been used recently, and you haven't cleaned the dash recently, as those can/will cause false positives). Some leaks can be sniffed at the drip tube, but the tiniest amount of moisture can give false positives on most meters.

If you have the compressor running and build up moisture in the evap case, you may find yourself getting false positives, but sometimes you can only find small leaks when the system is under high pressure. If you suspect the evap core, you can open the system and do a pressure test on it, but obviously you'll have to pull down the system and refill (which you'd do anyway if you replace a port/s).
 

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Thanks so much for the links Torque! I'm in the market for these as well.
 
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