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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've run into problems with the 1 1/4" rear bar on my '94 Mark VIII.
Any one have an Addco rear bar on a Lincoln?
The endlinks are tilted towards the front of the car becasue it looks like the arms opn the bar are to long. They also touch the air bags when I went for a test drive which is very dangerous as they will put a hole in them.
So anyone with a rear bar (or front) on their Mark VIII, I'd like to know if your endlinks are tilted forward at all, how far away from the air bags the arms are, and/or any other problems you may have ran into please...
Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Mark,
I sent the bars back and they are saying now that they can't make the arms any shorter as this is the shortest their machine will bend :rolleyes: (which doesn't make sense as these are longer than the specs they said it should measure!)
They said no problem to widening them a bit though which is great.
With the endlinks binding though like they are, I think its more important to have the arms made the right length than widened. They are a bit less tha 1" longer than the specs they gave me, so should be made over to the correct size...
I don't know what to do... :zdunno:

I'm getting more worried about the front install now becasue of all these problems I've run into with the rear. I want it to go more smoothly than the rear as the job is much bigger and I should not be having this many problems...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
When you say thousands, are you talking T-Birds? Any idea how much of a difference this is between the Birds and the Marks? Only difference I could see as they are the same platform is the air bags in the Lincolns?

I sent you a PM with the name/number of the gent I've been dealing with. He's been great so far, but like I mentioned, it seems we are coming to slow down with them saying they can't make the arms shorter. This was only Tuesday they told me this mind you, so I'm not to worried yet as I'm sure they need to get things sorted out there too...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good news!
A new bar is on it's way here! They didn't say what they did with it, but I'm assuming they were able to do something or they wouldn't have just sent another one (I hope)?!
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I get to pick up the new bar tomorrow :)
I hope it fits better this time. Addco has been very great in helping me with this, a few problems with customs and shipping (UPSs' mistakes too which are making me go nuts!), but thats what happens with UPS it seems (I've not had a good experince with UPS yet!)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Picked up the new bar Friday (measurements look a lot better then the last it seems!) and hope to get both it and the front one in today when I get up :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Got the rear bar install down to 25 minutes including removing the old one ;)
Now the front on the other hand... I'm at 2 hrs+ and counting, just started on the subframe bolts removal, and still need to figure out how to get the dang steering shaft apart :(
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Worked on it for an hour today. I got the steering shaft off (I gave up on the upper shaft, and marked the lower shaft to joint and took it apart there) and got the old bar out, set new bar in and viola... more problems!
The instructions say to use two 1/4" spacers in each side, but doing this makes the bar itself hit the frame. If I use one spacer per side, then the locating collars touch the sub frame.

It looks like my options are:
a- Notch the frame and leave both spacers in, put (collars on inward side as per instructions.) Will this weaken frame?
b- Remove one spacer, put collars on outward side of bushings (I think they will clear here, I'll double check tomorrow.) Bar may still tap frame though with hard driving??
c- Figure out something different for collars (smaller/thinner ones?) and remove one or both spacers?

I think option b- is the best way as I don't need to grind or cut anything.
Suggestions?
I'm almost done! :D
Thanks,
Jon

PS:
On my Mark VIII, I didn't have to touch the auto trans lines at all, but did remove the brackets that hold the power steering lines to the rad support and subframe so they wouldn't bend/break.
I also didn't need to remove the factory tie-down plate either, I was able to lower the subframe about 3 1/2" and tilt it a bit down towards the passenger side to slide the old bar out and the new one in. Saved some time there ;)
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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i use one collar and adding a washer on each bolt hole and it clears everything with some minor clearance everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you must just grind a flat onto the collar so it sits flat to the frame and you are done. Some have had to use one spacer and that is no problem
If I ground a flat onto the collar, would it not either prevent to bar from rotating or spin the collar on the bar?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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If I ground a flat onto the collar, would it not either prevent to bar from rotating or spin the collar on the bar?
just grind it enough to clear. just wondering, do you installing the clooar on the outer on inner of the swaybar? i installed it in the inner with 1 spacer and it clears fine.

i also bought the red urethane bushing kit from autozone and it's thinner and it'll give some clearance as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This is with the collars on the insdie like in the instructions.
If I put them on the outside, I think I'll actually have more room.
I was thinking of getting some ES bushings or something, but up here no one stocks stuff like that and I can't leave my car in pieces in the driveway.
How much do these bars move in the bushings while driving?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Spent an hour on the car today after talking with Addco, I decided to try option -b.

I think the T-birds are a bit different than the Lincolns.
When I went to center the bar, if I use the balancer to do it like the instructions say, the bar is offset to the passenger side by about an inch. If I measure how much of the swaybar arm is coming out of each side this seems to confirm this. I did some measuring, and it looks like the engine is a bit less than one inch to the passenger side of the subframe. Anyone heard of people mentioning this or have run into it on the Lincolns?
I centered the bar so it is centered with the subframe and bushings now and will try it like that. Alot of measuring from different spots leads me to think this is the better way on the Lincolns.
Input very welcome please, I hope to finish it up tomorrow :)
Jon
 

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Offset

Hello

Mine was also offset. I have to move it over. With the 1 3/8in bar I had to use 2 spacers per side. Also have to bend out the weld lip on my car.
I have a Thunderbird.

where in Ontario do you live? I live in Tonawanda, That is between Buffalo & Niagara Falls.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
At leasty I'm not the only one that's run into this. Anyone with a Lincoln run into it?

I'm close to Missisauga. Your close to the border, I wish I was closer to it ;)
 

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I used the 1-1/4 bars on my t-bird. Used both spacers, notched the vertical portion of the frame, and installed the collars on the inside. I used measurements to the existing car to center it. I did not use the balancing method. I would highly suggest to pre-measure the rubber bushings to make sure they are the right bar diameter. Also, another thing to do is take off any powdercoating @ the bushings and use the pre-lube grease made by energy suspension. It can be picked up at Auto Zone for $5 and works like magic. Otherwise in about 6 months you stand a 95% chance of the bar squeeking like an old mattress on friday night. Then you have the pleasure of doing one more time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I ran into yet another problem:

On the PS the swaybar clears the end of the strut by 1/8", which if the suspension moves, may cause a bumping noise while driving:



On the drivers side however, it is touching and rubbing, definately not good:


Think I can get away with grinding down the lip there to make it clear maybe 1/4"?

I'm not to fond of the quality of Addcos' products at the moment, but their service has been great...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did grind some of the lip off the strut and moved the bar to the drivers side another 3/4" (now it is about 1 3/4" offset from the balancer on the engine,) and it is still rubbing the drivers side strut! I can't move it anymore as it will be way to far off center and the bolts that hold the AC compressor are in the way :(
This stinks... :bawling:
 
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