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Discussion Starter #1
what kind of gains should i expect to see from stock with these mods:

pi manifold
75mm TB
c&l plenum
maybe a cold air whatchamajigger

will i need a tune?
should i also at the same time get a different maf? getting a different maf always means getting a tune right? i know "no tune needed" C&L mafs are BS but are there any other options?
 

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Those intake mods will net you somewhere between 15-25 horse. A tune would help, but wouldn't be needed.

I would go ahead with those and then look into getting exhaust. Intake and exhaust mods compliment eachother and make for better performance. Then I would think about getting it tuned.

As for getting a bigger MAF. its not really needed until you add cams, nitrous, blower, ported heads, bigger injectors to supposrt these mods....so serious modifications.

Chris
 

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Personally I would get the PI intake, 22c plugs, 180 thermostat, 02-04 GT MAF, and a XCal2. How much power you will gain is hard to say, but it will be at least 15rwhp. It is a nice seat of the pants difference though. I just did these mods myself and it is very noticable.


Russell
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok cool. one thing, probably a really stupid question... what are 22c plugs?
 

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ok cool. one thing, probably a really stupid question... what are 22c plugs?
Those are a copper spark plug that is one step colder than stock. You need those for the XCal2. If you go with the 02-04 GT MAF, then you need to get the intake tube and airbox that go with it also.

Russell
 

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while everything these guys have said is dead-on accurate, keep in mind that airflow-increasing components (like those you mentioned) are really only exploited during WOT runs where you will spend lots of time in the upper ranges of the tach (like in drag races for example) .......if that is what you really need then go for it

on the other hand, to get a better driveability on the streets (where you will most likely be below 4000 RPM most of the time), an upgrade to PI cams and rear gears would make more of a difference

then again, if you get all those things you mentioned, and the stuff the guys before me mentioned, and the pi cams and shorter gears, you'd have a killer street/drag setup all at the same time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
my version of drive abilty on my car is 1800 rpms and below. i see how low i can keep the rpms just for fun so i can make fun of my freind that has to rev past 5500 in his integra to merge onto the highway... lol. but yeah i enjoy the occasional wide open run to prove my point to some ricer, and would love to see some track time... so yeah, pi cams, would it be best to go with pi cams, considering the average going price on ebay these days is 20 bucks, or would it be more benificial to go with like a stage one or two non pi cam from sean hyland? i know theyre twenty times the cost but are they better? if im going that deep into my engine i might as well be happy with what i put in there for awhile...
 

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if you want to keep driveability down low, then you dont want any off-the-shelf aftermarket cams of any kind really......the gains from the PI cams comes from more lift at the intake and exhaust valves, not because they are held open longer......longer opening durations (like aftermarket cams have) shift the torque peak higher in the RPM range, so you always trade off some torque below 2000 rpms to do so.......so i would advise against aftermarket cams if you want that pull below 2000 rpms......unless you have a custom-grind made to still make torque down-low and still give you a little more more up top....im sure Greenbird knows of such a combination
 

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I think you would be real happy with a set of steeper gears. A 3.73 gear would probably be a good choice for you.

Russ
 

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3.73s, PI cams, Xcal2 programmed for premium fuel, 22C plugs, 180* stat and that car will have some good 'kick' below 2000 :)

hell, for the price that you can now-a-days get the 2002+ GT/Mach1/Marauder 80mm MAFs, IF you get an Xcal2, might as well throw in there a stock 96+ style GT airbox and appropriate intake tube to throttle body :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ok new turn of events, last night i was doing the standard ebay cruise, looking up misspellings of the word "modular" now im not even sure if im spelling it right modulor moduler modalur so on and so forth, and behold the angles of retard luck :angel2::wiggle::angel2: smiled on me and i scored a set of 5.4 "modoler" pi heads for 200 bucks. nice. so i know the 5.4 cams are different than ours, i should get rid of those right? i would rather not run out of cam before i run out of intake manifold... will i have a clearance issue with aftermarket cams? does anyone run comp cams xe262ah cams. according to "building 4.6/5.4 ford horsepower on the dyno" these cams have minimal losses down low while picking up 50+- at 5000 on a pi motor with the same mods i have lined up on a higher compression motor, so i should get more, right? if they fit. any input? thanks

oh yeah ill definatly need to be getting an xcal2 now so you dont need to mention that. im learning.
is there any reason to get the demon coils and wires?
 

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ok new turn of events, last night i was doing the standard ebay cruise, looking up misspellings of the word "modular" now im not even sure if im spelling it right modulor moduler modalur so on and so forth, and behold the angles of retard luck :angel2::wiggle::angel2: smiled on me and i scored a set of 5.4 "modoler" pi heads for 200 bucks. nice. so i know the 5.4 cams are different than ours, i should get rid of those right? i would rather not run out of cam before i run out of intake manifold... will i have a clearance issue with aftermarket cams? does anyone run comp cams xe262ah cams. according to "building 4.6/5.4 ford horsepower on the dyno" these cams have minimal losses down low while picking up 50+- at 5000 on a pi motor with the same mods i have lined up on a higher compression motor, so i should get more, right? if they fit. any input? thanks

oh yeah ill definatly need to be getting an xcal2 now so you dont need to mention that. im learning.
is there any reason to get the demon coils and wires?
PI cams are PI cams (in terms of valve event specs).....don't matter whey they came from...so dont throw them away......with PI heads, you can run cams with up to about .550" lift before you'll have valve issues......but that can be solved with good aftermarket valve springs.....i believe there's quite a few people here running those comp cams, but be forewarned, you will lose some torque below 2000 RPMs (this coming from someone who has similar cams in terms of valve opening duration)....so you can just forget about your 'mission' to keep the RPMs as low as possible ...hehe

absolutely no reason to get demon coils nor wires, unless you wanna brag to your less-smarter friends about how cool it sounds to say "demon coils" and "demon wires"......lol
 

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If you want a down low power feel toss in a 3500 stall converter.Than what ever route you go with cams you will not have to worry about the low end power because the stall will make it up in putting you in your power band much faster.

Stall and gears first.

Engine mods later.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok i kinda had a feeling the coils would be a waste of $$, our electrical systems are already relatively beefy, a friend of mine said that truck cams were made for truck manifolds and the powerband is really meant for towing, and there was mention of that on here before somwhere i thought, but you look to be the one to trust in this area, (Moderator Posts: 3,557) so thank YOU sir. i didnt really want to mess around with the cams anyway.
95xbird, i have always known to do drivetrain and hookup first, but im just having so much luck here with the parts i keep stumbling acrossed on the cheap. but i really do need to talk to dirtYdOg sometime here. i wish gears were a up-on-blocks-in-the-driveway-gearhead job.
 

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i wish gears were a up-on-blocks-in-the-driveway-gearhead job.

They are if you have a set already installed.I will soon have my 3.73 gears for sale with my pumpkin.5k miles on them.Only thing this rear end lacks is a trak-lok.Which is why it is coming out.I had the gears set in for real cheap.Which is why I did it like this.But the car has too much power now and a Locker is now mandatory for this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
They are if you have a set already installed.I will soon have my 3.73 gears for sale with my pumpkin.5k miles on them.Only thing this rear end lacks is a trak-lok.Which is why it is coming out.I had the gears set in for real cheap.Which is why I did it like this.But the car has too much power now and a Locker is now mandatory for this car.
i would totally want those but i want to be looking at similar power levels to what you have...
 

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ok i kinda had a feeling the coils would be a waste of $$, our electrical systems are already relatively beefy, a friend of mine said that truck cams were made for truck manifolds and the powerband is really meant for towing, and there was mention of that on here before somwhere i thought, but you look to be the one to trust in this area, (Moderator Posts: 3,557) so thank YOU sir. i didnt really want to mess around with the cams anyway.
95xbird, i have always known to do drivetrain and hookup first, but im just having so much luck here with the parts i keep stumbling acrossed on the cheap. but i really do need to talk to dirtYdOg sometime here. i wish gears were a up-on-blocks-in-the-driveway-gearhead job.
well cams can be made to complement manifolds, but i doubt ford wanted the extra cost of having to grind lots and lots of different cams for the PI engines, so they just used the PI cams which is a good compromise between low-RPM torque, and high-RPM power......low-RPM torque can be augmented, both in magnitude and where it begins to climb on the RPM band, by different tuning in the manifold...thats why trucks usually have much longer runners, and sometimes thinner too.....this boosts the velocity of the incoming aircharge going into the intake port, which in turn helps the air/fuel mix more thoroughly and makes more torque down low when engine RPMs are not high
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
if i can find the 02-04 gt maf. wow. every mustang i have found in the 'yards has nothing left for the motor excluding the block if its blown. nothing on ebay EVER, does anyone know where i can find one? EDIT: all this is going in after i get an xcal2, can i just get one of those c&ls? if i leave it in the "stock" setup and have a tuner arent they ok? or do they still play mind games with our comps in the "stock" setup?
 

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you can usually find the GT mafs for a bargain on the mustang sites: www.modulardepot.com, www.modularfords.com, www.corral.net, etc......you can usually score one for about $50, airbox $30-$40, and an intake tube for about $20

if you keep stock-size injectors, then the C&Ls work fine.....its only when you go to larger-size injectors that the sampling tubes for the C&Ls have to slow the air velocity down more and more before the MAF wires [because this cools the MAF wires less} to make the EEC think there is less air being injested, so as to pulse the larger flowing injectors for a shorter time period so as to match the fuel quantity that a stock 19 #/hr injector would normally inject......so that is where the error is generated: when less than actual airflow is being reported by the MAF, it throws the Engine Load Calculation off.....and there are only like a billion important tables/functions in the EEC that directly depend on having a correct Engine Load value....among two of the most important are spark and fuel

but if you really think about it, even with a C&L setup for stock injectors, you still have the same MAF meter [electronics] and thus can still only meter the same maximum quantity of airflow, and at the same accuracy level.....the reason a lot of people switch to latter-style GT MAFs is because the electronics within the MAF were revised and make it much more accurate in terms of reflecting what is going on in reality....this is what gives better driveability of the vehicle, because even the stock MAF can read up to about 350 BHP, so more range is not really an issue with a near-stock MN12
 
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