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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have the Allen kit for my 96 bird, I keep good care of it and drive safely, but I do take her to the track once and a while. I was just wondering, what would the first thing to go on the kit? Water Pump?, supercharger?, what?

Give me an idea or experience form your Allen kits

Thanks,

Josh :D
 

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Which intercooler pump do you have?
If mechanical...you might wanna replace it with the Lightning pump.
If Jabsco, replace it with the Lightning pump.
Lightning pump good...
 

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On Probation
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the only thing that goes wrong is the mechanical pump and early electric pumps have problems. I would recomend that you purchace a lightning electric intercooler recirculation pump.
 

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blown96bird said:
the only thing that goes wrong is the mechanical pump and early electric pumps have problems. I would recomend that you purchace a lightning electric intercooler recirculation pump.
Yes. Same here. I replaced the Jabsco with another one. If and when it breaks, I will get the Lighnting pump. I also would like to get the Lightning heat exchanger.


Rudy
 

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AED Specialist
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On mine...

The coolant water tank had a bad weld on it and was leaking, Allen Superchargers replaced it quickly.



I too had the Jabsco electric pump. While it never failed on me, the seals broke and it was leaking coolant badly.

I replaced that pump with a Lightning/Bosch pump. I currently run two of them with no problems.



The next thing that goes on the ALLEN kits is the idler pulley attached to the supplied bracket. The bearings usually go out on it. Most of the time the pulley can be easily replaced. The guys with the reversed belt wrap ('00 front cover and up) see the most problems here.

That's about it for the kit itself. I would stay away from the mechanical intercooler pump. Although I have never heard of the mechanical pump having problems when installed properly, it only pumps based on engine rpm. At low speeds (idling) you aren't moving much fluid. The Bosch pump is about 4 gpm and plenty for the ALLEN intercooler.

A short Video of my Allen T-Bird...

A-Train
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the pictures and video A-Train :D

So go with a lightning electric pump, and watch for the idler pulley. Where would I find this and how much? By the way nothing happen to my car I just want to be prepared for anying.

Thanks

Josh
 

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Ford Parts HQ

Josh,

Contact Dan Newman and ask him for the FRPP Lightning Intercooler pump. He'll know what you want. I believe they go for $125.00, but it's been awhile.

The bracket I custom made. You can use something similar or be creative. The pump should be fairly low when you mount it. I used the stock ALLEN Jabsco pump location for the 1st pump and the 2nd pump is right next to it.

And make sure you run good qaulity 93 octane fuel. The stock 4.6L hyperpathetic pistons will puke ring lands fairly easy, so be careful.

A-Train
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #8
Check Engine Light, Running too Rich? :confused:

I just went to emissions and failed because a check engine light, the troble code is P0172 and : System too Rich. Help me out!? Maybe just a re-tune?
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #9
Nevermind, fixed :D
 

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What was it?

A-Train
 

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Kind of off topic, but does anyone know if the FMU supplied in the kit will work with the 2.5" pulley until I can have the car E-tuned, or am I asking for trouble? I've got the 90mm Lightning MAF, 36lb injectors and what not ready to go, but I thought I'd get a few break in miles on it with the stock FMU and injectors for a couple hundred miles until driving it 4hrs to have the other stuff installed and dyno tuned. Still can't decide whether on not to have the EEC flashed, or to go with a chip tune. What do you guys think?
 

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Stay out of the boost and it will work. Nail it and you'll be sorry.

The fmu has a 5:1 gain rate, so for every psi of boost ALLEN adds 5 psi of fuel pressure.

A-Train
 

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A-Train said:
Stay out of the boost and it will work. Nail it and you'll be sorry.

The fmu has a 5:1 gain rate, so for every psi of boost ALLEN adds 5 psi of fuel pressure.

A-Train
Is it possible to alter it in order to change the ratio? Disks, spring rates, anything?
 

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Yes, you need to take the FMU cover off and change the diaphram washer. Problem is, they don't stock them at Lowes or Home Depot.

It would be a guess anyway...how lucky do you feel?

Just stay out of the boost and disable the fmu all together, you'll be fine until it's tuned. REMEMBER TO STAY OUT OF THE BOOST!

A-Train
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #15
MAF was dirty, had K&N oil on it, cleaned it up and cleared the code
 

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Stay out of boost....Gotcha. :thumbsup: Now, what about the decision to go with the EEC flash, or a chip tune? Which is cheaper/better?
I basically need it to work with the 36lb injectors, 90mm-LMAF, speed governor, etc.
 

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Brian, your best bet is a dyno tune and a flash, as we talked about eariler in the year. That is where you will get the most out of your setup. A basic get it running tune via a chip or flash with your 36's and LMAF and 2.5" upper can happen from any SCT dealer, as I said I can send you a chip or reflash your eec. But, you will still pay the tuner at the time of the dyno tune. The chip just adds extra costs.That's why I said get it running on the stock 6lb. stuff, break it in and swap over the injectors and FPR, and pulley at the time of the tune. But hey as I said, I'll do what ever you want as far as helping you get the AED going.

Mike........... ;)
 

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Thanks Mike, yeah I recall our conversation. I don’t want you to think that I was ignoring your advice. I do plan on driving it there with the FMU, but I couldn't recall whether or not you though I'd be better off having the EEC re-flashed or to go with the chip when it came time to having it dyno tuned. So, the re-flash it is then. :thumbsup:
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #19
A-train,

was watching the video one more time, do you always drive with the o/d off?
 

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OxmanWI,

Yes, most of my driving is city type and I do get into the boost often. So the last thing I ever want is a heavy part throttle shift into OD. Even a WOT back-out 3-4 upshift could leave me walking.

Once I hit 50 mph I'll turn OD back on and just be careful. It's my style and I've been doing it for 10 years. Also my EEC-V is set-up to not shift into OD until 50 mph anyway.

Brian,

I agree with EECDOC. I'd personally want a custom dyno tune rather than a cookie cutter chip. While some cookie cutters can work great, you're better off having the graphed A/F ratios and HP/TQ to look at. That way, an exact amount of spark timing can be added to maximize performance without risking engine damage.

I believe you'll need some sorta of pre-tune to get the 36's and LMAF dialed in. You can drive it with what you have and swap it over at the dyno shop. It shouldn't take all that long to swap in the 36's and LMAF. The pulley you can put on at home and drive it to the dyno, just be sure not to get into the boost. Be sure to use a shorter serpentine belt with the 2.5" pulley or she'll slip at WOT. I used a Motorcraft belt, JK6-1105 (110.5" long). You can get them from Dan Newman. The stock Allen Supercharger belt is JKG-1118 (111.8" long).

A-Train
 
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