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i was wondering how aggressive the jmod can get as far as quick shifts and how much it'll put you back in your seat..does anybody have an "aggressive" shift jmod video so that i can make my decision on what jmod kit to buy?
 

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i was wondering how aggressive the jmod can get as far as quick shifts and how much it'll put you back in your seat..does anybody have an "aggressive" shift jmod video so that i can make my decision on what jmod kit to buy?
I do. At WOT, my 1-2 is brutal, my 2-3 is snappy. My 3-4 is noticeable too, I just don't do that at WOT. It'll put you in the seat pretty well. I wanted mine that way. It's a 300-450hp level J-mod. I had RobertP make it as hard as it can be without having to upgrade to a mechanical diode. I wanted maximum 1/4 mile performance. At part throttle, my 1-2 is noticeable as is my 2-3 also. As far as the accumulator pistons go, the bottom spring was left out on the 1-2. No spring in the 2-3, IIRC.
 

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Unless you've got a built all to hell and back transmission and an engine pushing 450+ horsepower you do not want the firmest J-mod setting (450-625 HP). That leaves you with the mild (< 300 HP) and medium (300 - 450 HP) settings.

I've probably got more experience with the Jmod and different converters than most anyone here. I've run mine with 3 different converters and two different engines.

Personally, I run, and recommend, the medium setting. The 2-3 shift is already soft and even when removing the 2-3 accumulator spring when doing the Jmod the 2-3 shift is very tolerable so I won't go into detail about the 2-3 shift.

The stall speed of the converter has a tremendous influence on the feel of the Jmod and at higher stall speeds will soften the hit from the 1-2 shift. When I first had the Jmod done to my car at the medium setting (the setting I still have) with, at the time, the stock converter the 1-2 shifts were brutal. The stock converter stalls at about 1,500 RPM and is fully locked at the time of the 1-2 shift making the shift very, very hard. With a higher stall converter the converter isn't locked when the 1-2 shift is made and softens the feel of the shift.

When I upgraded to the modified Marauder converter (Stalling at about 2,800 RPM) the 1-2 shifting was still firm but much more tolerable.

I then replaced the engine with the PI and my current configuration with the 9.5" billet converter stalling at 3,800 RPM. There wasn't much of a noticeable change in the feel of the shifts but the car was much more responsive due to the increase in HP.

So, depending on your future plans, I'd recommend the mild setting with a stock converter. If you're willing to put up with neck snapping shifts in daily driving then go with the middle setting. Not that that's a bad thing, but it takes some getting use to. It's all a matter of your personal preference.

If you plan to beef the car up and replace the converter I'd recommend the middle setting.

It takes HP to "put you back in your seat". The Jmod isn't going to do that for you.

On a budget and with a 3.8 N/A engine the next best thing to adding HP is changing the gears. That will give you much more acceleration with the same HP and give you that "put you back in your seat" feeling.
 

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The only reason why I wasn't bothered by the snappy 1-2 shift was my lower 1-2 accumulator spring had been broken since I have ever driven my car. Just had to get those pieces of spring out of the cylinder bore. lol My girlfriend doesn't mind the feel of it.
 

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I have the extra nasty jmod...i wool try to get a video. I like it a lot.
 

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I've probably got more experience with the Jmod and different converters than most anyone here. I've run mine with 3 different converters and two different engines.
We'll let you think that their big boy :) I don't call my 97 a test mule for nothing. I bet I have had more different converters in it in the last 2 weeks than anyone else around here has done in their lifetime.

On subject I find the springs make the most difference. For softer shifts use the brown upper with purple lower, for hard shifts forget the purplr lower. The drilling I go a bit bigger on especially with a high stall converter.
Alan
 

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We'll let you think that their big boy :) I don't call my 97 a test mule for nothing. I bet I have had more different converters in it in the last 2 weeks than anyone else around here has done in their lifetime.

On subject I find the springs make the most difference. For softer shifts use the brown upper with purple lower, for hard shifts forget the purple lower. The drilling I go a bit bigger on especially with a high stall converter.
Alan
I did take the precaution of saying most anyone because I knew there were big d0gs like yourself out there that would call me out on just that; and you just proved my intuition spot on. :tongue:
 

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On subject I find the springs make the most difference. For softer shifts use the brown upper with purple lower, for hard shifts forget the purple lower. The drilling I go a bit bigger on especially with a high stall converter.
Alan
Alan,

Is the brown upper the spring of choose now? When I did mine (way back when!) the blue upper was the one to use. Is there much difference in the firmness? Mine shifts pretty good now. :)

Joe
 

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I only use the brown, the light blue one is slightly softer shifting and costs about $30, the brown one is less than $8
Alan
 

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ima run my stock engine besides the steeda undrives with the 300-450hp setting jmod from robertP, 373 gears & 3800 converter frm alan, chip frm lonnie until i do the PI swap later down the road. hope it all goes smoothly.
 

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ima run my stock engine besides the steeda undrives with the 300-450hp setting jmod from robertP, 373 gears & 3800 converter frm alan, chip frm lonnie until i do the PI swap later down the road. hope it all goes smoothly.
Good luck with that!

Lonnie refuses to tune any car with Alans converter, not trying to stir up trouble, just letting you know the facts. I posted about it when I needed a tune for my dohc swap, he out right refused, I took my business elsewhere.
 

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You're a better man than me, Chris.

I lie to get what I want sometimes.

Although, plans changing isn't exactly lying...
 

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Good luck with that!

Lonnie refuses to tune any car with Alans converter, not trying to stir up trouble, just letting you know the facts. I posted about it when I needed a tune for my dohc swap, he out right refused, I took my business elsewhere.
I think it is his way of sabotaging his business because it has happened several times in the last few weeks. I have a list of tuners I can suggest who aren't into the politics and drama of it all.
Alan
 

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If thats the case then how and where do i get a tune lol, there isnt a dyno or anything withing bout 400 miles of me. :-( How would the bird drive without a tune?
 

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If thats the case then how and where do i get a tune lol, there isnt a dyno or anything withing bout 400 miles of me. :-( How would the bird drive without a tune?
I'm happy with my tune from Don Lasota. He was very helpful with getting my wacky setup all dialed in. I'm consistent in buying from venders with excellent customer service. Don went above and beyond my expectations with my tuning needs just as Alan is currently doing with my transmission needs. I hope to find a good core soon and get my beast back on the road.
 

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I'm happy with my tune from Don Lasota. He was very helpful with getting my wacky setup all dialed in. I'm consistent in buying from venders with excellent customer service. Don went above and beyond my expectations with my tuning needs just as Alan is currently doing with my transmission needs. I hope to find a good core soon and get my beast back on the road.
Did they do actual dyno tuning for you, or was that a mail your specs into them/xcal tune? I am not real happy with my current BOC tune and I am looking for something better.
 

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Did they do actual dyno tuning for you, or was that a mail your specs into them/xcal tune? I am not real happy with my current BOC tune and I am looking for something better.
He does both but for my setup it was mail order tuning since he isn't located out here. I also invested in the zeitronix wideband zt-2 setup which he sells.

Basically I orded a tune along with giving him as much information on my car as I could and he sent a tune, I data logged it per his instructions and sent him the logs, he sent me a retune, IIRC it took 5 tunes to get my setup 100% dialed in....mostly because of shift point and rev limit issues. Anytime I sent him a log and if a correction was needed he sent me a retune same day, with the exception of one which he informed me was going to be delayed because he was out of the office, that retune was given to me by early morning the next day which I wasn't expecting nearly that soon.

Lonnie on the other hand never had me do any of these steps, Lonnie also had me wait 3 weeks before I got my first tune... and when I recieved it the "process" was sort of just here's your tune... enjoy. Thanks...

Don on the other hand had me my first tune same day or next day (I don't recall which) despite the complexity of my setup. With the sct logs and the wideband logs he was able to get it right were it needed to be instead of just good enough based on reputation. He worked with me and my setup until it was right which is great and offered great support and free retuning during the process. I'll be using him for all of my tuning needs. The F150 is next!
 
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