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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I replaced my inner and outer tie rods with moog parts and while I was under the car, I just could help but notice that the boots on my sway bar end links were completely shot, torn up and everything, and my upper ball joint is the same. Would it be better to replace these before an alignment, or does it not really matter either way?
 

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Do it all and then get alignment, otherwise you'll be getting 2 alignments.
 

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There are alignment specs in the tech articles; print and take them to the guy that does your alignment. It will make a difference.

Also, make sure you have the full weight of the car on the wheels when you torque the pivot bolts; otherwise, the bushings will be bound up, and it will handle like crap!
 

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Yesterday I replaced my inner and outer tie rods with moog parts and while I was under the car, I just could help but notice that the boots on my sway bar end links were completely shot, torn up and everything, and my upper ball joint is the same. Would it be better to replace these before an alignment, or does it not really matter either way?
I plan on doing innter tie rods this weekend with Moogs.

Any bewares?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The boot was a PITA to get off. There is a big clamp more towards the rack that holds the boot on and i just cut mine off because i could not figure it out. I'm not sure if you are looking to reuse the outers but i didnt so i smacked them off with a hammer. Other than that, just have a big adjustable wrench and you should be fine. It was my first time doing this too and I had it done in about 2.5 hours.
 

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I was thinking of reusing the outers, so I will try a puller to get them out without tearing them up.

The rivet came out without much trouble? I looks pretty straight forward.
 

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Turns out, if you have a BFW, you can pop that rivet off easily by merely levering the inner tie rod.

The Moogs I used, used Loctite(tm) to lock to the rack.

RwP
 

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What is the difference between the alignment that a shop would normally do as compared to the specs from the articles?
"Normal" alignments list a range for each setting and most alignment shops will simply put the adjustment somewhere in that range and call it good.

The specs in the article are at the outer edges of those ranges and are for optimal handling.

They are still with factory ranges, just a more accurate setting leaning towards handling.
 
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