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Discussion Starter #1
well to make this short i have went through 2 brand new alt, they dont charge the battery , i read on hear that there is a fuse, i have replaced all fuses to no avail

what altenators will interchange with the tbirds,
mine is a 92 5.0


i dont wanna spend another 150 on a altenator

i have no flow going through any of the terminals at the alt. while the car is running


any help please



maybe i can go junk yard hopping for one that will work
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes she's loosing voltage while running, had advance put the tester on it while running, as my buddy did the same at his shop
 

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has some one tested the battery outside the car? you could have a dead cell as well or a relays ticking somewhere, the fuse link on that car is on the harness that runs from the alternator acros the motor to the stater relay on the lh side
 

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Discussion Starter #6
does anyone have a pick to post of it , i ripped apart the entire harness found no link, i did find a unused connector that is down by the ac compressor, i checked out a 92 sport 5.0 and didnt see oine either as the ford tech line wasnt any help
 

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fuseable link

The fuseable link will be the first ~6 inches of wire from the fender mtd starter solenoid. Where that wire joins the wire to the altenator should be a molded bulge at the site of the joint where the fuseable link is "welded" (obviously not like a frame weld, but a type of pressure weld or a crimp connector). Fuseable links generally support more than one circuit, so there may be several wires out to components at the connection site. Fuseable links are available at most parts houses. The EVTM should tell you what the guage/color of the link is. Verify a bad link by checking the other components that it feeds. Best bet us to use a Multimeter (some call it a "voltmeter") Sometimes electrical tbls can drive you to drink-----short trip :)

YB
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea this is b.s. for sure the ford garage cant figure it out either, ran brand new wiring to just about every thing , I tried 4 altenators, 3 batterys a fuseable link new connectors, the only thing is the solenoid could that be it of all this stuff
 

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links

Sounds like you are having a lot of fun with this one-----yea right:( I just looked at the EVTM (Mine is for a 91 5.0/3.8 bird). Have the repair people been using a multimeter (voltmeter) to check all the leeds in the circuit for continuity? If they are only checking the output path to the battery, then they need to check the leeds that go to the internal regulator. Alternators need voltage to "excite" the field coils and produce an output. Thats why you cant push start an alternator car with a dead battery. The 12 ga (grey) fuseable link that goes to the battery + side of the starter relay carries the charging (output) of the alternator. There is also a fuseable link, 20 ga. (blue) that is on the Y/W (yellow/white" leed going to the internal regulator "A" lug. That is where the alternator "sees" the necessary voltage, from the battery to "turn on" the alternator. That blue link is molded in the same connection that the main link to the starter relay is located, but provides a separate path for the regulator circuit.

I think someone needs to really check out these leeds----good, before you spend any more time, energy----especially money on this thing. Since my EVTM is for a 91, your colors may be a little different and the circuit may have changed slightly, but altenators still function about the same. Also, have you been able to look at the circuit schematic on an EVTM? LOL anyway:)

YB
 

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Blue link

The 91 EVTM shows (same for 5.0 and 3.8 na) that the small alt plug has 3 wires going out of it. 1 wire (LG/R--light green w/red stripe or dash) goes to the inst pnl for alt warning indicator. Its on the "I" post at the alt. #2 wire (w/bk--white w/black stripe/dash) loops to the other connector (large connector) its on the "S" (stator) post at the alt. #3 is the Y/W wire that has a blue fuseable link in its path. #3 goes from the "A" post on the altenator to the post on the starter relay. #3 is also the only wire from the small connector that goes to the starter relay post.

If you dont have a voltmeter (I hate to keep bringing this up, but it is really needed on difficult electrical problems) I think you need to go to Radio Shack , or parts house and get a cheap one and a few clip leeds. Sometimes these EVTM schematics are a little misleading as far as to how the connections are actually made. They are electrically correct, but can mislead as to the way the actual connection points are made. Any wire in the harness can be open (broken/melted/corroded) inside the insulation, thats why on these PIA troubles you have to check for continuity and wiggle the wire to check for a loose joint/connection etc. You may already know all this, not trying to insult your intelligence. I worked on complex circuits for 34 years (at my last job!) and I still get bitten in the A** by simple things. Be thorough and carefull. Also, check for a "92" EVTM because its possible that my "91" info is not quite the same :) LOL --Again!

YB
 

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Link

25svo---

Sorry "Bout" the double---
I just checked the EVTM for my 93 Bronce, out of curiosity. The wire colors are all the same as the 91 Bird EVTM and they go to the same places---BUT, there is no "blue" 20ga fuseable link on the 93 Bronco, on the "A" post small connector to the starter relay. So they rely on the "grey" 12ga link to protect both the output and regulator ckts from excessive current. FYI--

YB
 
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