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Discussion Starter #1
A few years ago I installed a Mrk 8 fan with 3g alternator and Lonnie Doll's wiring kit. Never had any problems except for some melting of the wires I noticed about a year ago at the 10 gauge spade style connectors that I installed between the fan pigtail and the wiring supplied in Lonnie's kit. Since the pigtail could be unplugged from the fan I eliminated the spade connections with soldering and heat shrink. Just figured the connection wasn't good enough to handle the amps pulled by the fan at start up. Thought that was the end of it.

It's wasn't.....I recently had the fan stop working and discovered the that plug on connection to the fan was all burnt up and melted around the power input prong of the connector. Looks like the male/female connection wasn't making a good enough connection and it simply got hot. We were able to make some temporary parking lot repairs to get the fan going again, but I wouldn't trust it to be used for very long. I think that a big part of the problem, is that cutting the shroud down by 5/8" to provide clearance from the water pump causes the fan to cavitate because blades are too close to radiator core, and it pulls more amps while flowing less air.

This thread has some pictures of my fan and some others.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=39370&highlight=fan+install+lonnie&page=2


The fan and it's plug in connector are now damaged to the point they both require replacement and I'm exploring my options. Have a few questions for others who are using this or similar fans.

Is this a common failure for the Mrk8 fan ?

Can the plug in connection on the fan motor be removed and replaced/rewired with 10 gauge wires going directly to the motor leads and use an aftermarket power connection located a foot or two away from the fan motor ?

Is there another fan that will fit the MN12 radiator that will provide similar cooling, and not be any thicker than the trimmed down Mrk8 fan ?


David
 

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David,

I forgot that I was supposed to get you some pics of the 03 Cobra fan.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=111129

I think it would take a little work to mount it up to a MN12 radiator. I don't know if it would fit in your 93 though. It's pretty thick, however the motor is offset from center a little.
 

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My Mark 8 fan has been in use for about 6 years now, and it came from the junk yard. It is showing it age, and the electrical connectors are about shot. I am replacing it with a fresh Mark 8, with a DC controller attached. The DC control starts the fan with only 15 amps, then ramps up the speed as needed. This will put a lot less load on the charging system, and the wiring.

There just is not anything out there that will cool as well as the Mark 8, that is thinner.

http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm

http://www.dccontrol.com/fans.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My Mark 8 fan has been in use for about 6 years now, and it came from the junk yard. It is showing it age, and the electrical connectors are about shot. I am replacing it with a fresh Mark 8, with a DC controller attached. The DC control starts the fan with only 15 amps, then ramps up the speed as needed. This will put a lot less load on the charging system, and the wiring.

There just is not anything out there that will cool as well as the Mark 8, that is thinner.

http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm

http://www.dccontrol.com/fans.htm

Bruce,

Are you planning to use the 50 amp controller ?

David
 

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I am ordering the 4018M setup. My fan is about worn out, so I am just getting the fan/controller combination, what ever that has.

Have to get that done, then,
replace my rack-pinion,

upgrade the brakes,

add a gas priming system for my E85 carb for cold starting, and to fill the bowls with gas when parking it

fix a small oil leak on rear of engine

put a B&M stealth ratchet shifter in

Pick up enough aluminum cans to pay for the above. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am ordering the 4018M setup. My fan is about worn out, so I am just getting the fan/controller combination, what ever that has.

Have to get that done, then,
replace my rack-pinion,

upgrade the brakes,

add a gas priming system for my E85 carb for cold starting, and to fill the bowls with gas when parking it

fix a small oil leak on rear of engine

put a B&M stealth ratchet shifter in

Pick up enough aluminum cans to pay for the above. :)
Bruce,

I didn't see a 4018M listed...did you mean 3018M ? Are you getting the trimmed version ?

David
 

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Getting old, can't see the keyboard to type. Yes, 3018-M. No, I will use mine as a sample, and put masking tape on it, put a line around it, and cut it with my jig saw.
 

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My M8 Fan has the melted connected issues too.. Which just adds more resistance which just means more heat and load through that connection now.. But it was being controlled by a temp switch (adjustable Hayden) and a 70Amp relay..

Now i have a Flex-a-lite VSC instead of the 70 amp Relay (still using the Hayden to set turn on point, the VSC for the `soft start' feature (since using it's temp probe, ect ALWAYS caused my car to over heat :( )

Also i'm running 8ga wire for the Fan too..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My M8 Fan has the melted connected issues too.. Which just adds more resistance which just means more heat and load through that connection now.. But it was being controlled by a temp switch (adjustable Hayden) and a 70Amp relay..

Now i have a Flex-a-lite VSC instead of the 70 amp Relay (still using the Hayden to set turn on point, the VSC for the `soft start' feature (since using it's temp probe, ect ALWAYS caused my car to over heat :( )

Also i'm running 8ga wire for the Fan too..
What did you do about the melted connector ? I'm wondering if the fan motor can be opened up to replace the plug in connector with a couple of heavy gauge wires. The factory connector just doesn't look large enough to handle to full load with a regular relay.

I'll bet something like the controller you and Bruce are talking about that ramps the current up gradually, would be a big improvment.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Getting old, can't see the keyboard to type. Yes, 3018-M. No, I will use mine as a sample, and put masking tape on it, put a line around it, and cut it with my jig saw.
Does that mean the 3018-M is made from the same Mrk8 fan we are using now ?

David
 

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What did you do about the melted connector ? I'm wondering if the fan motor can be opened up to replace the plug in connector with a couple of heavy gauge wires. The factory connector just doesn't look large enough to handle to full load with a regular relay.
I've never gotten that far before the car became almost none driveable (Clutch and over heating (from a cold start to fan turning on is like 10 to 15 minutes at idle) So i never got around to trying to figure it out.. was going to try something when i removed the engine, ect to `rebuild' the car.. but now i'm not going to be doing that :(

I believe i didn't see a way to open up the motor itself? But yah if one can open it open up and be able to added a higher capacity connector it may be the way to go.. But the VSC setups i think are the better way anyways.. since you won't have the Electrical Surges/drops when the Fan turns on/off.. Before the VSC on my car, you can watch the voltage gauge on the dash drop alot then come back up as the Fan gets too speed.. with the VSC, you never notice a change in voltage, least compared to just a normal relay so they are better then in many different ways...
 

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Does that mean the 3018-M is made from the same Mrk8 fan we are using now ?

David
Yes, the 3018-M is a Mark 8 fan, with the controller installed to it, ready to go. I do want to check with him about using a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose with it, rather than poking one into the fins. Not the way I prefer.

I can actually hear my fuel pump change sound when my fan comes on now, and I do not want to have it receiving low voltage when I am at max boost. May tie a WOT switch to the fan, to keep it off till I let off. Will not be but a few seconds :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, the 3018-M is a Mark 8 fan, with the controller installed to it, ready to go. I do want to check with him about using a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose with it, rather than poking one into the fins. Not the way I prefer.

I can actually hear my fuel pump change sound when my fan comes on now, and I do not want to have it receiving low voltage when I am at max boost. May tie a WOT switch to the fan, to keep it off till I let off. Will not be but a few seconds :)
Bruce,

Since they are currently showing a 3-4 week delay on delivery of new orders, I went ahead and put a trimmed 3018-M on order a few minutes ago. Merry Christmas to me :D

I like that it also has the ability to power/control an electric water pump, because that may be happening this winter.

Thanks again for all the info.

David
 

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David,
Did you order one for me also? :) I am sure you will like it. It is a quality piece, and worth the cash when you are using it with something like you have. No need in pinching penneys on something that can cost you thousands if it fails. I plan on going to a electric water pump some time next Spring also. Great combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The DCC fan is shipping today...I'll take a few pics after intalling it.

David
 

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Did you have them ship one to me also? :) I am just completing my gas primer system for cold weather starts on E85 (will allow faster warm ups also) . I will do my manual rack next, then the brakes, then my new fan and controller. I am sure you will love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you have them ship one to me also? :) I am just completing my gas primer system for cold weather starts on E85 (will allow faster warm ups also) . I will do my manual rack next, then the brakes, then my new fan and controller. I am sure you will love it.
Bruce,

Ooops...I forgot to order yours :tongue:

Don't really expect the motor to run any cooler with this fan, until I relocate the FMIC a few inches higher to allow more air to reach the radiator. At this point I'll be happy if it cools as good as the old one and doesn't melt the wires.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Finally got around to installing the new DCC mrk8 fan. The wiring is very simple and everything I needed was included with the fan. Just connect one lead to positive battery post, one lead to negative battery post and if you desire the fan to shut down with ignition turned off...connect one lead to 12v ignition power.

With ignition power going to the fan it automatically supplys the fan with 10% of the voltage and it runs constantly at a reduced speed. Depending on where you position the knob the fan can be set to maintain anywhere from 140 to around 250 degrees. I've got mine set to around 180.

I was pleasantly suprised to find that the trimmed version I bought was cut to exactly the same thickness as the one I had previously cut myself and fitted to the car, and the fan was also oreinted in the same position as I had mine installed (fan motor connector facing upward toward driver's side) so my mounting brackets didn't require any revisions and nothing had to be relocated to make room for the fan controls.

After installing I let the car run in the garage for about 20-30 minutes last night to get it up to full temp and adjust the fan's temp setting. It didn't have any trouble maintaining 180 degrees. Drove the car to work today and the results were the same. Won't really know how good it works until summer, but at least I've corrected the melting wires problem.

I'll post a couple pics tonight.

David

PS: Fan controller makes a strange whining noise after shutting car off...sounds like a mini jet engine winding down for about 45 seconds after fan has stopped.
 

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I will be doing mine in the Spring. My fan is so close to the engine, I have to pull the radiator and fan together to get it out. Will do a cooling flush at the same time. I will feel a lot better with a fresh fan, and the lower amp load from the controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I will be doing mine in the Spring. My fan is so close to the engine, I have to pull the radiator and fan together to get it out. Will do a cooling flush at the same time. I will feel a lot better with a fresh fan, and the lower amp load from the controller.
Bruce,

Mine is an extremly tight fit too...the fan motor actually overlaps the water pump pulley and requires a little wrangling to get it in. I can't pull the radiator without first removing the mrk8 fan because I've got a 14" pusher fan attached to the front side of the radiator that requires tilting the radiator toward the motor a couple inches before it can be removed. Here's some pics of the new fan.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35829&d=1232903567

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35828&d=1232903567

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35830&d=1232903567

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35831&d=1232903567

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35832&d=1232903567

David
 
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