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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone running Aluminum Differential Bushings on their Thunderbird/Cougar here?

I was thinking of using the Aluminum Differential Bushings instead of the Polyurethane ones..

I would like something that holds up better than the Poly which seems to have mixed reviews..

Any added drivetrain vibrations by using the Aluminum vs Rubber or Poly Bushings?

These Bushings..
Differential Carrier Bushings.JPG


Anyone got any experiences they'd like to share using the Aluminum Differential Bushings?


Thanks..





Rayo..
 

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Not aluminum, but we have steel ones made out of roll bar tubing in the lemons car, and did not notice any difference in harshness with it, plus it cost almost nothing, just cut some roll bar tubing to length, cut the rubber off the washer part of the stock bushings, weld the roll bar tubing to the washer, paint, and reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not aluminum, but we have steel ones made out of roll bar tubing in the lemons car, and did not notice any difference in harshness with it, plus it cost almost nothing, just cut some roll bar tubing to length, cut the rubber off the washer part of the stock bushings, weld the roll bar tubing to the washer, paint, and reinstall.

I take it the OD of the roll bar tubing was exactly the same diameter as the holes in the ears of the Differential?
That's a good idea.. :idea:

My only concern with that would be possible misalignment of the pinion angle..

Most of the kits I've seen for the Aluminum Differential Bushings have extra washers included to allow you to change the pinion angle if needed..

I'll keep this in mind though..Thanks Mikey.. ;)

Were you guys literally cooking the bushings right out of the Differential on your Lemons car?





Rayo..
 

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I would also use a solid rear mount so that it doesn't try to twist there, and break the ears off.

RwP
 

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I take it the OD of the roll bar tubing was exactly the same diameter as the holes in the ears of the Differential?
That's a good idea.. :idea:

My only concern with that would be possible misalignment of the pinion angle..

Most of the kits I've seen for the Aluminum Differential Bushings have extra washers included to allow you to change the pinion angle if needed..

I'll keep this in mind though..Thanks Mikey.. ;)

Were you guys literally cooking the bushings right out of the Differential on your Lemons car?


Rayo..

Not exactly the same diameter, but pretty close. 1-3/4" roll bar tubing, and then we did end up using a couple washers to shim our diff down a bit, not for the pinion angle, but for the right tension on the belt for our diff cooler, so I can tell you that pinion angle being off by a little bit on our cars won't be a big deal.

We weren't cooking the bushings, we boiled the fluid out of the diff, which necessitated a diff cooler, which we made by driving a power steering pump off the diff flange to pump the fluid through an A/C condenser mounted in the trunk (very lemony), but with the rubber bushings, the diff would torque up under load which would loosen the belt and throw it off, so solid diff mount to the subframe, which the bracket for the pump is welded to, allowed us to adjust the tension on the belt and have it stay on.
 

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We weren't cooking the bushings, we boiled the fluid out of the diff, which necessitated a diff cooler, which we made by driving a power steering pump off the diff flange to pump the fluid through an A/C condenser mounted in the trunk (very lemony), but with the rubber bushings, the diff would torque up under load which would loosen the belt and throw it off, so solid diff mount to the subframe, which the bracket for the pump is welded to, allowed us to adjust the tension on the belt and have it stay on.
+1 Awesome Fix!

:D

I think that pretty much embodies the entire spirit of the lemons racing; parts we weren't using, doing stuff they weren't designed for, Kicking ass. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would anyone else like to share their experiences using the Aluminum Differential Bushings?


Thanks..




Rayo..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I dont have first hand experience yet but here are the ones i bought for my car. they are going for $70 on ebay but i bought them direct through drop engineering's site cheap. Here is the link. http://www.dropengineering.com/ford-mustang-front-iff-support-99-04.html

Zack
It says their out of stock? :confused:


One other thing..

It's my understanding the aluminum differential has different sized holes on the ears verses the cast iron differential.

So..I'm not sure how the fit would be..

Maybe someone who has used the Aluminum Differential Bushings meant for a 99-04 Cobra on a cast iron differential can chime in.. :D




Rayo..
 

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I had a set made for the aluminum pumpkin in my bird when I ran it, the rear mount went bad, a hard launch and loud pop was the sound of the ear cracking off of the differential case. I've since replaced my rear mount, run poly bushings, and switched back to energy suspension red poly bushings with no ill effects after many drag passes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had a set made for the aluminum pumpkin in my bird when I ran it, the rear mount went bad, a hard launch and loud pop was the sound of the ear cracking off of the differential case. I've since replaced my rear mount, run poly bushings, and switched back to energy suspension red poly bushings with no ill effects after many drag passes.

Thanks Chris..

Had you been running a poly rear mount on that hard launch..I wonder how your ears would have fared on that aluminum differential?

Did you get any Daily Drive time in with the Aluminum Differential Bushings installed?

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I'm still looking for more information on the Aluminum Differential Bushings before I pull the trigger..

No doubt aluminum vs poly the aluminum would hold up better..

I don't want to end up with a lot of drivetrain noise reverberating through the car though..

Any experienced feedback on the Aluminum Differential Bushings would be appreciated..


Thanks




Rayo..
 

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I had a set made for the aluminum pumpkin in my bird when I ran it, the rear mount went bad, a hard launch and loud pop was the sound of the ear cracking off of the differential case. I've since replaced my rear mount, run poly bushings, and switched back to energy suspension red poly bushings with no ill effects after many drag passes.
If you run solid diff mounts at the front, you also need to have it solidly mounted in the back. You can either weld something solid across the 2 metal parts of the mount on each side, or just drill holes through the flat part of the mount and put a bolt through it, but if the front mounts are solid and the rear one has flex in it, you will crack your diff cover or housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Differential Bushing Mod

I've got the Energy Suspension Poly Bushings 4.1126G sitting in a box getting dusty..

Once I heard the Aluminum Differential Bushings meant for the 99-04 Cobras work on our cars as well..I kind of changed my mind about using the Polys.. :D

I might make some Differential Bushings similar to what MadMikey was describing..

Just to see if solid Differential Bushings are something I can live with..


Here's a pic of what I was thinking:
Differential Bushings Mod.JPG

Basically the Bushing will center it tightly in the ears of the differential..

The Bushing will also go through the center of each washer with very tight tolerances..

Then by having all the Washers in there..Setting the Pinion angle if necessary will still be an option..

I can put a couple of these together for around $20 vs the $70+ most places are charging for the Aluminum Differential Bushings.. :rolleyes:


What do you think?





Rayo..
 

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Take the stock ones, and cut the rubber part of the bushing off of it with a razor blade. That will leave the center rubber bushing part to locate it, allow you to stack up the washers (probably after drilling out the hole a bit), and will allow you to keep the stock bolts to save some money.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Take the stock ones, and cut the rubber part of the bushing off of it with a razor blade. That will leave the center rubber bushing part to locate it, allow you to stack up the washers (probably after drilling out the hole a bit), and will allow you to keep the stock bolts to save some money.
You Lemons Racers sure know how to save a buck! :D

Thanks Mikey..I already got the parts on order though..




Rayo..
 

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You Lemons Racers sure know how to save a buck! :D

Thanks Mikey..I already got the parts on order though..




Rayo..
In this case, it was more a matter of using what you had on hand or could scrounge up from other teams to get back on the track faster without having to run to the hardware store 20 minutes away, but yes, we do figure out clever ways of not spending money. We also figure out clever ways of making expensive parts look cheap! You should see the tokico blues and bilstein rear shocks on that car. After some time with undercoating, and multiple coats of black and brown paint, along with rolling them around in the dirt while wet, they look like rusty old stock stuff!
 

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Here's a pic of what I was thinking:


Basically the Bushing will center it tightly in the ears of the differential..

The Bushing will also go through the center of each washer with very tight tolerances..

Then by having all the Washers in there..Setting the Pinion angle if necessary will still be an option..
Bad idea if you think stacking the washers changes the pinion angle. As the angle of the housing changes it is not parallel to the mounting surfaces. Either tapered washers or paired spherical washers will be needed to accommodate the change in the angle of the housing to the IRS subframe.
 
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