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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I got my 97 back from the shop a few days ago and things are going great with the new gears.

With the 373's, Trac lok and new purple speedo I've started to hit the rev limiter somewhere between 85-90mph.

For the rev limiter are there any chips still available or is a tune my only option?

I'm now looking for a 93 Mark viii aluminum driveshaft like everyone else so if you have any leads please shoot them my way!


Work Done Thus Far:

Jmod
Engine Reseal
Coolant hoses, soft lines, etc replaced
Belt tensioner
ARP Wheel studs/lug nuts/machining
Sport brakes
O2 sensors
Wheel bearings
Cv axel
Thermostat
Oil pressure sender
Control arm bushings
Exhaust work
Wiring(burned wiring)
Radiator
Fan
PS pump
Intake manifold(NPi for now)
Lower valve stems seals
Trac lok
373 gears
Bearing Install kit
Purple Speedo



Future Work:

• 93 Mark Viii aluminum driveshaft
• Pi heads
• Pi intake
• Cams
• Vortech V3 supercharger
 

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Change that to "Future work: Custom made drive shaft".

Good news, you can take your 2 piece in and get a new one made with it as the template.

(2 piece because of the rubber between the inner and outer)

RwP
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Don't change the rev limiter until you've addressed the torque converter. The factory one is no good over 5400 RPM and balloons above that. For that matter, the factory trans isn't much good at high RPM or power levels either, so plan on a built trans with new converter before you start dumping on the power.

There is no way to change the speed or rev limiters without a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Change that to "Future work: Custom made drive shaft".

Good news, you can take your 2 piece in and get a new one made with it as the template.

(2 piece because of the rubber between the inner and outer)

RwP
Will a normal driveshaft shop be able to help with that or am I looking for a specialist? Appreciate the advice

If I'm lucky enough to find a 93 mark driveshaft am I good to install in a 97 4.6 simply after having it rebalanced with new u joints? I almost had my hands on one this morning. I understand they should both be 58.20"
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Don't change the rev limiter until you've addressed the torque converter. The factory one is no good over 5400 RPM and balloons above that. For that matter, the factory trans isn't much good at high RPM or power levels either, so plan on a built trans with new converter before you start dumping on the power.

There is no way to change the speed or rev limiters without a tune.
Good call thank you. The tranny was rebuilt due a failure and while I was at it I had someone else jmod it. Ill start looking to upgrade that torque converter as mentioned. Any recommendations?

Ok great, good to know on the tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I never had mine rebalanced(unless it’s bent there’s no reason to think the factory balance will improve IMO, in which case the shaft is junk anyway) but yes the Mark driveshaft is the exact same length as the stock steel driveshaft shaft
Ok awesome. I don't plan to go 100+ yet but I know I will in the future. I'll jump on a driveshaft when one comes up. Right now the biggest pain isn't my top speed but the way the rev limiter holds you back at WOT.
 

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Do I remember correctly reading that only the 1993 year model Mark VIII drive shaft will work?
 

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Will a normal driveshaft shop be able to help with that or am I looking for a specialist? Appreciate the advice

If I'm lucky enough to find a 93 mark driveshaft am I good to install in a 97 4.6 simply after having it rebalanced with new u joints? I almost had my hands on one this morning. I understand they should both be 58.20"
Should be any normal driveshaft shop.

My docket is to have the local company "Clutch and Driveshaft Inc." rebuild a pumpkin for me and have them make a driveshaft.

Might not happen what with the pains from the CoVID financial repercusions.

RwP
 
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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Good call thank you. The tranny was rebuilt due a failure and while I was at it I had someone else jmod it. Ill start looking to upgrade that torque converter as mentioned. Any recommendations?

Ok great, good to know on the tune.
The Mustang GT/Mark VIII/Marauder converters stall a little higher but more importantly have a higher safe RPM limit of 6500. Those will be your most economical option. For a "once and done" I recommend reaching out to PI. It will set you back $900+ though, but they're about the best out there.

A "rebuiilt" 97 trans with the J-mod is an improvement (most especially so if they put in the mechanical diode reverse drum assembly in favor of the original roller clutch) but for "bullet proof" you should start with at least a 99 core as the valve body had some changes and the parts aren't sold separately for older applications. In 03 the trans got the harder 5.4 gearset but most applications eliminated the tail shaft speedo gears in favor of a turbine OSS. Swap your original tail shaft in that case.
 

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I bought an aluminum DS from PST when we had a group buy several years ago.
They are great people. When I bought the tbird in 09 they even gave me the group price, even tho It had been years.
IDK what their prices are now, but I'd call and find out, you don't have to balance brand new. :)
The girl that answered the phone's name was Arlene and was really nice.
I have one in each of my cars; and haven't had any problems.

I start with 01 or later tranny cores to work with; as there were favorable changes up to then in the case itself.
I'm kinda on the fence about the VB changes; adding the sonnax two bolt plate for under the 2-3 accumulator is really a good idea; I stamped the non protected VB plate hard enough to make it leak. 😇 I think that happened when I backed out of a wot 2-3 shift. The direct clutch died about there, so it had to be there. . :)
 

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You can also get a Dynotech aluminum drive shaft. I've had one in my car for years. Got on a group buy on here a very long time ago.
DYNOTECH ENGINEERING
 

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Just a heads up I searched on Car-Part.com and found several '93 aluminum driveshafts within a couple hours of me. Worth the drive imo considering they are $40 - $80 and the aftermarket ones are nearly a grand.

You all don't go buying them up if you don't need them now, save one for me lol. I'll definitely be grabbing one at some point in the future.
 

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Just a heads up I searched on Car-Part.com and found several '93 aluminum driveshafts within a couple hours of me. Worth the drive imo considering they are $40 - $80 and the aftermarket ones are nearly a grand.

You all don't go buying them up if you don't need them now, save one for me lol. I'll definitely be grabbing one at some point in the future.
Do be aware that not ALL 1993 Mark VIII driveshafts are one piece ....

Huh. Local shop quoted me like $300 for a steel driveshaft for me; $500 for aluminum, with U-joints installed.

YMMV though.

RwP
 

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Do be aware that not ALL 1993 Mark VIII driveshafts are one piece ....

Huh. Local shop quoted me like $300 for a steel driveshaft for me; $500 for aluminum, with U-joints installed.

YMMV though.

RwP
Thanks for that heads up!

I've never been to a driveshaft shop, I was getting my pricing from the fancy aluminum ones sold on websites such as super coupe performance. Great people btw not trying to talk down about anyone...

I'll have to go to a shop then, thanks!
 

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1997 SPORT Laser Red. Restored May of 2020.
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Be careful buying used Mark 8 one-piece drive shafts. Most have been bent by the forklift moving them around the boneyard. Need to roll the the shaft like a pool cue stick. When I bought one around 2002. Parts yard had to pull three before we got a straight one. He then told his forklift operators to be careful moving the Mark 8.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Be careful buying used Mark 8 one-piece drive shafts. Most have been bent by the forklift moving them around the boneyard. Need to roll the the shaft like a pool cue stick. When I bought one around 2002. Parts yard had to pull three before we got a straight one. He then told his forklift operators to be careful moving the Mark 8.
I don't see how that can happen with this chassis? The driveshaft doesn't move down with the suspension in droop like a solid axle car and half of it is effectively shielded by the fuel tank below it.

I did go through this however when I was hunting for a P71 driveshaft for my 5-speed swap, I passed on a few that clearly had fork contact
 
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