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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was browsing Summit's website, and I think I've got about everything I need for my PI swap. The part numbers are as follows

FMS-M-6049-P46 - Right side head
FMS-M-6050-P46 - Left side head
FMS-M-6067-D46 - Install kit
FMS-M-9424-P46 - Intake

Any other main components I need to add?
 

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That depends on what is included in the "install kit".
 

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Yeah, what's included in the kit, i may be interested in how much!
 

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Baby Huey
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Head bolts, Head gaskets, Dipstick tube, header gaskets.
 

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I'm assuming your just doing the pi top end swap and not a pi engine swap, if thats the case, you seem to be on a good start, but you may also need intake manifold and plenum gaskets.... that intake looks like a dorman for some reason so you may not need to order those gaskets I would just buy the intake and if it doesn't come with built in gaskets go to autozone and buy the felpro intake set, you'll need a new egr valve gasket for when you remove the plenum... (do this the easy way and disconnect the 4 plenum to intake manifold bolts and the egr valve and swing it aside out of harms way, you need the pi coolant tube, those are romeo heads so your going to need new cam shaft sprocket bolts, those are torque torque yield like head bolts go to ford for those they cost about $7, you should also get a new crankshaft bolt, apparently there is a debate on whether or not you can re-use them, I reused mine than replaced it 100 miles later for reassurance, your going to need ultra copper rtv for the crank snout, you may or may not be able to re-use your timing cover and valve cover gaskets, you wont know for sure until you go to put them back on, they like to swell over time... your going to need about 4 jugs of coolant, 2 quarts of tranny fluid, maybe some power steering fluid, 5 quarts of oil, a new oil filter filter, once you get the timing cover off you need to decide whether or not to replace the timing chains and guides, if you don't have the fuel line disconnect tool your going to need that, you'll need a deep well 18 and 22 mm, and impact for the harmonic balancer bolt, a harmonic balancer puller, a buddy to help pull the heads off with manifolds attached (I found it easier to do with them still attached) they weigh more than you think, once the heads and manifolds are out of the way you should be able to visibly see your upper o2's now is a great time to visually inspect whether or not you should replace them, if you notice any signs of leaks from your motor now is the time to fix that, such as a timing cover front seal, oil filter adapter to block, etc.. If you hit any snags pm me I'll help you out.


Also you want the block to be as sterile an environment as possible so spray the sh*t out of everything with b-12 chemtool and wipe it off asap, you want the block to head surface to look like a mirror finish, use a brillow pad to help with that if you have to, now is the time for it to look like new and keep future blown head gaskets and oil leaks away.

Also those heads probably ship dry so disassemble them and pre-soak the lifters in oil, then start your re-assembly
 

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Baby Huey
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I'm assuming your just doing the pi top end swap and not a pi engine swap, if thats the case...................................Also those heads probably ship dry so disassemble them and pre-soak the lifters in oil, then start your re-assembly
LOL This is just a wild shot in the dark, but I'm guessing you've done this once or twice?? :D
 

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Not to jack the thread but do you get more performance out of just the pi head swap and intake then just a whole pi motor?
 

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Parts for swap

I'm not sure if it comes in the install kit but you need a heater tube to clear the PI intake (in the valley) and a double o-ring nipple for that tube (versus the barbed fitting that's currently there). They may be in the install kit, I'm not sure.
 

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Not to jack the thread but do you get more performance out of just the pi head swap and intake then just a whole pi motor?
The answer is, I don't know. I do know that the PI heads on the NPI shortblock will give you greater compression. So it is possible that the NPI/PI combo would give you more power. On the other hand most people that do a complete PI Motor swap use the Aluminum Explorer motor so it would be lighter than the stock NPI engine. Which is better I don't know. Judge for yourself I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, the NPI/PI is going to be an iron block, which would be inherently stronger. The aluminum block is lighter, but I hear they have issues when you start pushing them, like with a supercharger or something. I would imagine aluminum vs. iron would depend on what your plans are. High horsepower drag car=Iron. Good powered road car=Aluminum
 

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well ford did use the iron block for the 03-04 cobras that tells enough for me right there however the aluminum block has been pushed to 1700 hp and beyond with the early aluminum ock. John Mihovetz of accufab made many 6-7 sec passes in his 1700hp twin turbo cougar. He ran the teskid block with a cobra crank. A wrist pin finally broke last season and a rod split the block in two lol the 99+aluminum blocks are said to be no good for above 600hp
 
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