I'm assuming your just doing the pi top end swap and not a pi engine swap, if thats the case, you seem to be on a good start, but you may also need intake manifold and plenum gaskets.... that intake looks like a dorman for some reason so you may not need to order those gaskets I would just buy the intake and if it doesn't come with built in gaskets go to autozone and buy the felpro intake set, you'll need a new egr valve gasket for when you remove the plenum... (do this the easy way and disconnect the 4 plenum to intake manifold bolts and the egr valve and swing it aside out of harms way, you need the pi coolant tube, those are romeo heads so your going to need new cam shaft sprocket bolts, those are torque torque yield like head bolts go to ford for those they cost about $7, you should also get a new crankshaft bolt, apparently there is a debate on whether or not you can re-use them, I reused mine than replaced it 100 miles later for reassurance, your going to need ultra copper rtv for the crank snout, you may or may not be able to re-use your timing cover and valve cover gaskets, you wont know for sure until you go to put them back on, they like to swell over time... your going to need about 4 jugs of coolant, 2 quarts of tranny fluid, maybe some power steering fluid, 5 quarts of oil, a new oil filter filter, once you get the timing cover off you need to decide whether or not to replace the timing chains and guides, if you don't have the fuel line disconnect tool your going to need that, you'll need a deep well 18 and 22 mm, and impact for the harmonic balancer bolt, a harmonic balancer puller, a buddy to help pull the heads off with manifolds attached (I found it easier to do with them still attached) they weigh more than you think, once the heads and manifolds are out of the way you should be able to visibly see your upper o2's now is a great time to visually inspect whether or not you should replace them, if you notice any signs of leaks from your motor now is the time to fix that, such as a timing cover front seal, oil filter adapter to block, etc.. If you hit any snags pm me I'll help you out.
Also you want the block to be as sterile an environment as possible so spray the sh*t out of everything with b-12 chemtool and wipe it off asap, you want the block to head surface to look like a mirror finish, use a brillow pad to help with that if you have to, now is the time for it to look like new and keep future blown head gaskets and oil leaks away.
Also those heads probably ship dry so disassemble them and pre-soak the lifters in oil, then start your re-assembly
