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Discussion Starter #1
My remote oil filter does need those braided stainless cables, but that stock hose it came with should last awhile...

You know, I really should buy those braided AN lines..

Driving down the road, life is good, holy crap what's all that brown stuff on my driver side window? Oil! CRAP CRAP CRAP, oil pressure rapidly falling! CRAP CRAP CRAP!

So I had to wait an hour for a tow truck, get towed home, car continuing to bleed oil all over the shoulder (thankfully I caught it AS it happened). Cursory inspection on the side of the road shows that one of the lines split.

So back it into the garage by hand, get it up on stands, and drain what's left in the pan (2 qt). No shiny bits, and none on my magnetized drain plug, so that's good at least.

Anyone, I repeat ANYONE doing the remote oil filter. go ahead and get the good braided AN style hoses.

Not how I was planning on spending my day off. Ironically, I was on the way to the salvage yard to try and get a body harness from a keyless car, but I didn't make it there.

Let's hope the motor is OK. Going to put regular motor oil in (usually run synthetic) and a new filter, run it a few hundred miles, and inspect the oil again after I get a braided set of lines.
 

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Since you shut it down right away, the motor should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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I have a cheap Derale remote oil filter on my car. It has just barbs with rubber hoses and regular screw type clamps on them. I do get a bit of seeping from them, but never have had them fail or leak large amounts of oil at any time. Have had it on the car about 2 years and 30k miles.

I do really like the ability to run a larger filter and have it in a better location.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a cheap Derale remote oil filter on my car. It has just barbs with rubber hoses and regular screw type clamps on them. I do get a bit of seeping from them, but never have had them fail or leak large amounts of oil at any time. Have had it on the car about 2 years and 30k miles.

I do really like the ability to run a larger filter and have it in a better location.
Upon inspection, it appears that the support I had holding the line up sagged, letting it get rubbed by the tire causing it to weaken.

So, clamps will be installed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's ALIVE! Muh hah hah hah!

Got the oil filter relocation adapter off, had to unbolt the sway bar from the driver side rail, and pop the end link off the driver side to get the oil filter in (thanks 89 SC sway bars, I love ya, but every 3000 miles I hate ya), put an 820S I still had in the garage on, filled her full with 5 qt Motocraft 5w30 Synth blend, primed the pump, hit the trigger, and she fired right up, and pressure was up where it should be. She sounded fine, no issues thus far. Took her down the street for gas, no issues, and will go ahead and change the oil when I burn up the gas in the tank.

Hoping for no metal flakes.
 

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Scratch that. 5 miles down the road KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK!

Pushed it home, trailing oil the whole way. I'll jack it up and inspect tomorrow, but not looking good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Scratch that. 5 miles down the road KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK!

Pushed it home, trailing oil the whole way. I'll jack it up and inspect tomorrow, but not looking good.

So here's the rough plan...

Take the PI top end off my motor, found a Mark VIII missing the throttle body so I'll put my PI heads, intake, etc on it. Maybe some better cams to take advantage of the newfound compression. See if I can scrape up some money for headers too. Make the best of it, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvdlD_b9uXo

So here's the rough plan...

Take the PI top end off my motor, found a Mark VIII missing the throttle body so I'll put my PI heads, intake, etc on it. Maybe some better cams to take advantage of the newfound compression. See if I can scrape up some money for headers too. Make the best of it, right?
There's no maybe about it, running pump gas without aftermarket cams to lower the static compression you're going to go from KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK to PING PING PING PING PING KNOCK :tongue:


BTW welcome to the I broke the most reliable engine ever club! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There's no maybe about it, running pump gas without aftermarket cams to lower the static compression you're going to go from KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK to PING PING PING PING PING KNOCK :tongue:


BTW welcome to the I broke the most reliable engine ever club! :D
Yeah, I started a new thread looking for thoughts as to what to do.
It's entirely my fault. I rubbed one of the oil lines with my tire, it burst, I can't blame anyone but me.

Irritated, but I'll go all Six Million Dollar Man on it, we have the technology, we can rebuild it. Stronger. Faster. LOL.
 

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Yeah, I started a new thread looking for thoughts as to what to do.
It's entirely my fault. I rubbed one of the oil lines with my tire, it burst, I can't blame anyone but me.

Irritated, but I'll go all Six Million Dollar Man on it, we have the technology, we can rebuild it. Stronger. Faster. LOL.
Yeah mine was my fault too, I took a couple long roadtrips last summer without checking the oil level, figuring I'd change the oil when I got back, and right before I did the dummy gauge started dropping to 0 at stops - not good - so I changed it immediately after, but it was too late. Plus 5w20 sucks, I started using that weight because the newer 4.6s spec it, but it just made the engine more eager to consume it and less protected when it got low.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah mine was my fault too, I took a couple long roadtrips last summer without checking the oil level, figuring I'd change the oil when I got back, and right before I did the dummy gauge started dropping to 0 at stops - not good - so I changed it immediately after, but it was too late. Plus 5w20 sucks, I started using that weight because the newer 4.6s spec it, but it just made the engine more eager to consume it and less protected when it got low.
I did that in my previous Thunderbird, but I did check oil often. Didn't notice any use, but it was a 97, and it was pretty good on it. That car got totalled, lady rear ended me while I was waiting on a left turn.

I started using 0w30 Mobile 1 synthetic in my 99 Mustang GT. Since I live in Duluth, MN, I figured the 0w would be useful in colder starts (I liked to fire up the motor once a month to keep it going, charge the battery) and I had been using 0w20 in my Crown Victoria and it always started with no complaint even at -20F actual temp. My 2007 Caravan work vehicle with 5w20 SCREAMS on those cold startups. Don't want that with my personal vehicles.

I'm bummed. But working on a plan.
 
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