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Discussion Starter #1
About a year ago I replaced it, now its split again. And its a motorcraft too. The defroster, turn signals, and blower didn't work (something to keep in mind).

So I re-crimped the switch with my vise, dug the aluminum tabs deep into the plastic half. Hopefully this will last! If you ever get a new switch it may be worth to tap the retaining tabs a bit.
 

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Wow I have never heard of an ignition switch splitting! I will check this out next time I see a switch out in the open. There is a TSB for some fords involving the use of a spacer between the connector and the ignition switch. Get me if im wrong, but it seems like certain year model connectors would not seat properly without the spacer. Of course this may not even be related, but it is still good info.
-Rob
 

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ignition switch

Ford did recall on my Bird. I got my T-Bird New in1992. I have replaced 4 ingnition switches. They keep coming apart
 

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maybe u r driving the car too much?? I dunno

I know my ignition switch wont actually engage the starter, but it will run the car fine. I have to have a starter button til I figure it out..

I havent tried to chase it down as of yet, too busy out on the road driving to make money
 

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something you might consider since it is not very expensive to get one is a remote start unit. It does everything to start the car and you just have to get in and turn the key, GENTLY and it will stay running...

Mine is coming off of my wife's focus since the alternator on it does not actually activate until about 20 seconds after the car is started..
 

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Both motercraft and aftermarket are bad designs. The aluminum is too soft for the crimp and the pins on the crimp are too short. I am on my 3rd, and the first that went shorted to the steering column. Make sure when you replace it, or any time you have the wires exposed to tie them up tight. That section of the wiring harness is heavy enough to pull the switch apart if it is allowed to move freely. If it is starting to separate at all then replace it immediately. It is a PITA, but much less then if it lets loose when you need the car, or worse, starts a fire in your column.
 

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Yeah, you know, my car had the ignition switch recall performed, so that's one replacement, and I've replaced two more since then (the first Motorcraft, the second Napa). I don't know if they simply fail mechanically, or if they get hot from current load and become weakened.

Either way, yeah, they seem to have a very high failure rate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, you know, my car had the ignition switch recall performed, so that's one replacement, and I've replaced two more since then (the first Motorcraft, the second Napa). I don't know if they simply fail mechanically, or if they get hot from current load and become weakened.

Either way, yeah, they seem to have a very high failure rate.
I had mine recalled a few years ago...

They fail because of the weak "finger tab" crimp and the weight of the harness on the switch. Also, Internally there is a spring loaded ball bearing mechanism that exerts stress on plastic half of the switch, hastening its demise every time you turn it. I'm thinking that since they had to recall and replace millions of these units, they probably designed it with the lowest possible cost. Also, its worth to check if you don't have a recalled switch (I believe up to 93), the dealer will replace it. The old switches could short internally and catch fire. I believe the Ford site will allow you to enter a vin and check for recalls.

theangryvorlon has a good suggestion which I'm going to look into tomorrow, I think a wire tie around the steering column and harness is a good way to prevent this...

I don't think this issue is with 94+ cars, I know they have screw going thru the harness retaining it to the switch.
 
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