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Discussion Starter #1
ok took my car in for an oil change and rear diff service and had them look over front suspension really quick too cause i knew it was gettin bad. heres what i get back. "recommend rt/outer tie rod (loose), rt/lower ball joint (play), strut rod bushings (worn) esp rt/side but would recommend both, upper ball joint boots broken open, would recommend replacing both upper control arms.. will need alighment." $1500 was his guestimate. I have looked up a few of these things and it looks like a strut rod bushing kit will cost me 10 bucks and 4 control arms (upper and lower) will be 200 bucks. I have heard itll take about an hour or 2 for each control arm and strut rod bushings are about an hour. WHERE THE HELL IS THE REST OF THIS MONEY GOING? basically i just want to confirm that I can do all this stuff myself in my driveway with common tools. Any idea what to do about the tie rod and where to get one or maybe both.
 

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"WHERE THE HELL IS THE REST OF THIS MONEY GOING?"

Its called markup. Welcome to the business world. ;)


You are looking at replacing basically the same stuff on your car as I am having done on mine this weekend. You should be able to do it all with common tools, in your driveway. Check rockauto.com for parts, I ordered there and saved a ton compared to local auto stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you... i saw your post but i had those questions about the tie rod and such and was lookin for a little more info as far as the actual job step by step ect.
 

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HanMan said:
thank you... i saw your post but i had those questions about the tie rod and such and was lookin for a little more info as far as the actual job step by step ect.
If you're going to do this work yourself, you really should get a manual. But the tie rod ends are easy to replace.
Remove the cotter pin and nut.
Knock off the tie rod with a ball joint seperator or some kind of tie rod removal tool.
Loosen the jam nut. (Nut on opposite end of tie rod)
Make a note of how far the tie rod end is screwed onto the rod. Counting threads is the usual method.
Spin off the tie rod end.
Probably will need to hit it with penetrating oil.
Spin on the new one to the depth you made a note of above.
Put the tie rod back on the knuckle and tighten the castle nut to 35 ft pounds then continue tightening until you align the next castellation of the nut with the hole for the new cotter pin.
Then tighten up the jam nut. 35-45 ft lbs.

If you are replacing both sides, do one side at a time to minimize and chance of the steering linkage or wheels moving and throwing off your steering wheel.

Then go get your alignment checked.
 

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HanMan said:
thank you... i saw your post but i had those questions about the tie rod and such and was lookin for a little more info as far as the actual job step by step ect.
Sounds like you need a good ford shop manual over there.

Get all the parts from rockauto.com, and steer clear of ripoff artists like that *** who quoted you that.

Where did you take it, to a chain place like pep boys or goodyear?

Make friends with a mechanic, or go to a local shop that is fair, or do it yourself. Its not that bad.

Get an alignment afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
nah its a good place not a chain mastertech auto. They do a lot of work for us and respect our stuff. We have so many cars that we take there they know me by name and its not even me paying the bills there i only pick up a few cars. When they screw up we call them on it and they fix it for free and thats what counts.
 
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