Another Lower ball joint post

If you can get a stock one to press in, I'd do it. The originals were way different than the aftermarket.

Wasn't TRW Ford's supplier? I see 2 different TRW ball joints on RA as well as Mevotech supreme and Moog problem solver. Although I've heard Moog has been going down hill quality wise for a long time.

It was TRW; The stockers were teflon lined; there's a post somewhere describing why the stock parts were best. But, from what I understand, they are no longer available like that.

Greasable doesn’t necessarily mean premium, most of the economy arms are. Sealed TRWs and one of the Moogs (the ones with the TRW stamp) supposedly are Teflon lined like the factory ball joints, those are on my car. The boots they use don’t inspire confidence though

At one time, Joe ad posted a link to new, high-quality boots. I can't find it now.

Kidd-7 said:

Correct, didn't mean to imply that. Here's a pic of the more expensive TRW: (TRW JBJ1012 )
View attachment 53622

Click to expand...

Those are the ones I used, made in USA . I bought an extra set as well because good likelihood they will be forever gone soon.

Also I recently mentioned on FB tccoa that I find it easier to just press in new balljoints rather than replace the entire lower arm. Everyone seemed to suggest the factory balljoints are not replaceable. They are either doing it wrong or have already been replaced with aftermarket junk arms.

Mack, based on your statement I'm figuring you press out and in while the LCA is still bolted up to car?
From what I've read thus far it sounded like a 12 ton press was needed instead of a standard ball joint press.

Someone with CAD knowledge needs to partner with a welder and create a set of tubular LCAs and UCAs with press-in ball joints.

If someone out there is smart enough to create them, I'll be brave (dumb) enough to test them.

From what I remember the UCAs from ACDELCO have replaceable ball joints, not tubular though.

Kidd-7 said:

Mack, based on your statement I'm figuring you press out and in while the LCA is still bolted up to car?
From what I've read thus far it sounded like a 12 ton press was needed instead of a standard ball joint press.

Click to expand...

A standard ball joint press will work for the lowers. For me at least I believe it is easier than doing the entire arm. The strut rod doesnt have to be messed with, and it shouldn't change the alignment. If arm and strut rod bushings need replacing it would save time to just do the entire arm at that point.

IIRC the car needs to be fairly high off the ground to get the press into the correct position. If they are originals they will be in so tight that the press will seem like it is going to bust before the joint pops. Make sure you ate your wheeties that morning too.

I used this ...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7CO50E/

Kidd-7 said:

Mack, based on your statement I'm figuring you press out and in while the LCA is still bolted up to car?
From what I've read thus far it sounded like a 12 ton press was needed instead of a standard ball joint press.

Click to expand...

I’ve used the common ball joint rental tool from autozone to press the ball joints in and out. There is nothing special there. Unless you have cheap replacement arms like Kenz mentioned. There are arms you simply cannot remove the joints. All that said I can replace the entire control arm in under an Hour. I might even say under 30 min.

Kenz said:

A standard ball joint press will work for the lowers. For me at least I believe it is easier than doing the entire arm. The strut rod doesnt have to be messed with, and it shouldn't change the alignment. If arm and strut rod bushings need replacing it would save time to just do the entire arm at that point.

IIRC the car needs to be fairly high off the ground to get the press into the correct position. If they are originals they will be in so tight that the press will seem like it is going to bust before the joint pops. Make sure you ate your wheeties that morning too.

I used this ...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7CO50E/

Click to expand...

A tip I can offer: If something sticks like that, I've learned to tap it gently with the small hammer, and it will move. With my press, I can watch the pressure drop with each tap.Putting stuff back together, I slather it liberally with Valvoline motor honey. It won't get close to my engine, but stuff doesn't bind up going back in coated with the stuff.
My neighbor showed me that while I was doing a rear wheel bearing; I showed him the one I broke, and I guess he felt pity for me. Or was afraid I'd send something thru his wall, lol.
Don't ever load something up to 20 tons without seriously thinking about where it's going if it comes out of there.

When I started out as a mechanic years ago, society was much less politically correct. One of the senior techs at our shop was helping me with a set of control arms on a BMW that would not budge loose from the bushing. He told me to grab the biggest sledgehammer in the shop and then "beat it like she stole your money".

Having recently been dumped, it was effective advice. 😆

DS popped out just fine. I'll be putting it back together tonight and probably go ahead and replace the PS also.

Help!! While pressing in the DS it got crooked and the boot tore. How screwed am I? Is there a way to replace the boot? I obviously don't want to run it w/ the torn boot.

On the tail shaft of the tranny?

Joe

front lower ball joint