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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This swap is going into my 93 Thunderbird LX with a 347 stroker motor and AOD transmission.

OK, I'm in process of gathering all of my parts for my swap. Here is what I have or am in process of getting:

What I have:
94-95 M5R2
B&M Ripper Shifter
Clutch Pedal with reservoir line and hose
Brake Pedal (maybe, I don't recall what year it's from and Dave Dalke said pre-93 won't work in my 93)
Center Console Top with boot
Parking Brake handle/assembly?
Power Master starter that can be changed from the automatic trans flexplate design to a manual transmission design
'89-95 S/C 5spd Slave cylinder
Flywheel
Clutch and Pressure Plate
'89-95 S/C 5spd Clutch Resivour w/ Tube
'89-95 S/C 5spd Hydraulic Tube
89-95 S/C 5spd Master cylinder
'89-95 S/C 5spd Tranny mount pieces
Clutch cover bolts
Flywheel Bolts
Pilot bearing/'88-96 F150 5spd 5.0L Pilot Bearing (Standard 5spd ford Part)
'89-93 S/C 5spd Tranny harness
Shifter Cover Plate with Boot
Speedo gear
E-Brake Cable
Cutting down my drivehshaft




What am I missing? I know there are many threads on this but they are a bit of all over the place. I'm thinking that I will update this post in this thread as we go so that it's better for anyone else that might read this.
 

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The early brake pedal won't work with the 93+ booster, but you can always just cut down the pad on your stock pedal. Since you said cutting down the driveshaft, I assume you have an aftermarket aluminum one already, and if so, the measurement you want is 53.8" centerline to centerline. If you have a stock driveshaft, it can't be cut down and you will have to either get one from a 5-speed SC, or have one made. The clutch master and slave cylinders can be purchased new aftermarket, but the reservoir, hose, and line you will have to find good used ones. The pilot bearing is the same as for an SC or a Mustang, or an F150, and may even come in the clutch kit. The clutch interlock setup is not required, as long as you have sense enough not to push the clutch in with cruise control engaged. I actually prefer to not have that so I can start the car in neutral without pressing the clutch. The trans harness is also not required, as you can just cut back the wires you don't need from the auto trans harness. The only part of it you might need is the connector for the backup light switch if you want your reverse lights to work. As far as what you are missing, you need the e-brake cable from the handbrake to the rear, and there is a metal plate with a rubber boot that bolts to the floor where the shifter comes through, and without that you will have a lot of noise and heat coming in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The early brake pedal won't work with the 93+ booster, but you can always just cut down the pad on your stock pedal. Since you said cutting down the driveshaft, I assume you have an aftermarket aluminum one already, and if so, the measurement you want is 53.8" centerline to centerline. If you have a stock driveshaft, it can't be cut down and you will have to either get one from a 5-speed SC, or have one made. The clutch master and slave cylinders can be purchased new aftermarket, but the reservoir, hose, and line you will have to find good used ones. The pilot bearing is the same as for an SC or a Mustang, or an F150, and may even come in the clutch kit. The clutch interlock setup is not required, as long as you have sense enough not to push the clutch in with cruise control engaged. I actually prefer to not have that so I can start the car in neutral without pressing the clutch. The trans harness is also not required, as you can just cut back the wires you don't need from the auto trans harness. The only part of it you might need is the connector for the backup light switch if you want your reverse lights to work. As far as what you are missing, you need the e-brake cable from the handbrake to the rear, and there is a metal plate with a rubber boot that bolts to the floor where the shifter comes through, and without that you will have a lot of noise and heat coming in.
OK, I've updated my list. You called it on the driveshaft. I have a custom aluminum one piece that I'll need to have shortened. Do you know of any resources with pictures for the transmission? I've never installed a manual transmission before but it seems like I'm missing things like the clutch fork or whatever disengages the clutch. I'll keep doing my research but this thread will help me along because so many of you have done this already.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm still gathering parts but the majority are here.

Today I got the car up off the ground. 6 ton jack stands should be safe enough but it's a little scary honestly. I'm wondering if I should think about additional support.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put my stands at the front of the K member, below the strut rods. It's a lot easier to get the transmission in and out that way
I just checked out doing that and my concern is that the car is on a narrower base and that worries me a little more from a stability perspective.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It looks like I'm going to need quite a few bolts for this. Does anyone happen to know where I can find a list of the bolts/fasteners I would need?
 

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Randy:
The flywheel to crank bolts and pressure plate to flywheel bolts can be bought new.
I seem to recall that I had to buy different pressure plate to flywheel bolts depending on the flywheel I used (initially, I was using the SC flywheel but had to get different flywheel to crank bolts when I switched to a 95 f150 flywheel to match the 5.0 imbalance.)

My shift boot was actually a cut down piece of inner tube material (gotten from free from a commercial tire shop). It seals perfectly and... well... because racecar).

Get a real clutch slave hydraulic line. The stock one is a POS and I hated how short and not easily disonnectable it is. See my notes on my swap on where to how to get a custom one made.

I see that your starter adapter from an flywheel to a flexplate which is a question of depth but does it match up with the # of teeth? I think the F150 flywheel may be 157T and the 5.0 tbird 164T. You might have to buy a new part but 95 f150 manual starters are cheap enough on rockauto (I might have an extra one because they have a lifetime warranty).
I also remember grinding out the scattershield hole for the starter slightly and/or grinding down the starter face so the bolts would orient it properly.

From my notes. OSH = Orchard Supply HW -- a local Ace Hardware affiliated chain in the Bay Area, CA:

Flywheel to Crank Bolts
3/8-16 x 1" (Mr Gasket set #910)
80ft-LBs

Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolts
F150 5.0 M5R2 Flywheel: 7/16-20x1" (Mr Gasket set #4698)
NOTE: Some flywheels use a 3/8-16x1"
35ft-LBs or 420in-lbs

M5R2 Bellhousing to Block
7/16-14x2" (EDS @ OSH)
+ 7/16" Lock Washers

M5R2 Bellhousing to Starter Bolts
3/8-16 x 1.25 (EDB @ OSH)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Randy:
The flywheel to crank bolts and pressure plate to flywheel bolts can be bought new.
I seem to recall that I had to buy different pressure plate to flywheel bolts depending on the flywheel I used (initially, I was using the SC flywheel but had to get different flywheel to crank bolts when I switched to a 95 f150 flywheel to match the 5.0 imbalance.)
I'm using an F150 flywheel so I should be able to get those bolts with no real problem.

My shift boot was actually a cut down piece of inner tube material (gotten from free from a commercial tire shop). It seals perfectly and... well... because racecar).

Get a real clutch slave hydraulic line. The stock one is a POS and I hated how short and not easily disonnectable it is. See my notes on my swap on where to how to get a custom one made.
I actually have one that came with the clutch pedal. It has an anodized red connector so I'm getting the impression that it's not the stock one.

I see that your starter adapter from an flywheel to a flexplate which is a question of depth but does it match up with the # of teeth? I think the F150 flywheel may be 157T and the 5.0 tbird 164T. You might have to buy a new part but 95 f150 manual starters are cheap enough on rockauto (I might have an extra one because they have a lifetime warranty).
I also remember grinding out the scattershield hole for the starter slightly and/or grinding down the starter face so the bolts would orient it properly.

From my notes......
Most of the bolts you list are things I either have or can get easily. I don't have the bolts for the slave cylinder. I also don't know what others I might be missing.
 

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I'm using an F150 flywheel so I should be able to get those bolts with no real problem.



I actually have one that came with the clutch pedal. It has an anodized red connector so I'm getting the impression that it's not the stock one.



Most of the bolts you list are things I either have or can get easily. I don't have the bolts for the slave cylinder. I also don't know what others I might be missing.
I seem to remember the anodized red connector on my stock cable. A fat plug that's supposed to be an easy quick disconnect but I never found it that easy to disconnect. It's held onto the actual clutch slave with a roll pin and can be replaced with a custom cable with a screw together male/female connector in the middle of the cable which makes it a ton easier to disconnect. No more futzing inside the bellhousing.

I don't recall how the clutch slave attaches to the input shaft of the M5R2. I can check my spare m5r2 (already disconnected from the spare engine), see what bolt is used, and see if I can ID it for you (I have to make a run to the HW store anyway).


-g
 

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Randy:
I took a look at my spare M5R2's bellhousing and found that the SC clutch slave is held in place by two bolts. I grabbed one on the way to the HW I stopped by on the way to my office this morning

Clutch Slave to Bellhousing (2 bolts)
M8x1.25 - 20mm
 

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I just checked out doing that and my concern is that the car is on a narrower base and that worries me a little more from a stability perspective.
I had my car set up like this for a full 6 months. With the rear stands outboard on the IRS it's nicely triangulated, plus the floor frame rails where you have them aren't much further apart than the K member strut Rod stampings, just further forward, and with most of the front end weight(engine) concentrated in the center it's proved to be a very stable configuration IME. You also don't need so much height either since the top of the trans bellhousing can slip between the wheel opening and frame rails where they kick up.
 

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I also found a transmission jack to be super helpful in lining up the transmission to the engine; you also needed something pulling the engine forward (house, engine bar) as with the removal of the auto transmission, the engine will want to tilt backwards which will make stabbing it that much harder.

I think I got this one for $75 after coupon and on sale.
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had my car set up like this for a full 6 months. With the rear stands outboard on the IRS it's nicely triangulated, plus the floor frame rails where you have them aren't much further apart than the K member strut Rod stampings, just further forward, and with most of the front end weight(engine) concentrated in the center it's proved to be a very stable configuration IME. You also don't need so much height either since the top of the trans bellhousing can slip between the wheel opening and frame rails where they kick up.
I do agree on that note. I may switch it around. I just need to make sure that I have it high enough off the ground to allow clearance with the transmission jack.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I also found a transmission jack to be super helpful in lining up the transmission to the engine; you also needed something pulling the engine forward (house, engine bar) as with the removal of the auto transmission, the engine will want to tilt backwards which will make stabbing it that much harder.

I think I got this one for $75 after coupon and on sale.
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
I actually have an engine bar that I can use. I have poly mounts from TurboChuck so it may not pitch backward all that much but I'll still put something place to hold it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The AOD is out of the car. The top bell housing bolts were a complete *****. Dropping the gas tank down a bit with the transmission jack made getting the drive shaft out a breeze. I'm hoping that since the overall body of the M5R2 is smaller that getting the bell housing bolts back in will be easier.
 

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On my 4r, I do the top two from the top, with a racheting wrench to get them started, then a 1/4 to finish.; it amazed me how easy it was over using 5 extensions and ujoints, lol.

If you take them out first, you can use a 1/4" rachet; if there's pressure on them, the wrench is the way to go.

Since the cowl is off, I can reach them easily; I can't remember how in the way your manifold is.


A 94-95 4.6l engine/intake makes this method impossible; they're under the EGR, pretty much.
 

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I unbolt the trans crossmember then let the back of the trans hang down a few inches. That, combined with a 4ft extension and a swivel makes the top 2 bolts very easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
On my 4r, I do the top two from the top, with a racheting wrench to get them started, then a 1/4 to finish.; it amazed me how easy it was over using 5 extensions and ujoints, lol.

If you take them out first, you can use a 1/4" rachet; if there's pressure on them, the wrench is the way to go.

Since the cowl is off, I can reach them easily; I can't remember how in the way your manifold is.


A 94-95 4.6l engine/intake makes this method impossible; they're under the EGR, pretty much.
I got them out by coming in from the side and up to the top. Fortunately I have a very long ratchet (it would be nicer if it were about 6" longer though) that allowed me to get to the top one on the driver's side. That was the one that was the toughest by far. There is no way to get to them at all from the top because the combination of the intake design on the 5.0 and the brake master cylinder. I've thought about removing the cowl but I wasn't convinced that the juice was worth the squeeze.

I couldn't get a wrench on the one for the driver's side.
 
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