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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well here are some problems:

1- Threw code *MAF Low Circuit Input Malfunction*
...so cleaned the MAF wires...nothing happened (edit: Was a bad MAF..replaced)

2- Idle drops from 2000rpm on the freeway to 1400rpm within a split second on the highway (edit: caused by problem #1...maf replaced and everything ok)

3- Car wants to die as soon as i push the throttle a little bit and will completely die when i make a turn giving it some throttle.
...i got the ecu sct tuned and the idle is higher than stock seeing how i said one of my mods were u/d pulleys. so car wont die thanks to sct tuner...(edit: caused by problem #1...maf replaced and everything ok)

4- All brake lights stay on. headlight switch, auto dim are off and car is turned off and the lights are still on. Disconnected battery and re-attached and lights were off, but as soon as you push the brakes down they stay on once again. (edit: was a bad brake switch)

5- Cruise Control has taken a crap and doesnt work anymore either. prolly has to do with the brake lights. Signals are great and flash perfect along with hazards. (edit: was a bad brake switch)

6- Sway bar rubs against Frame seeing how the brakets broke off. ford wanted 11.99 a part while i got them 0.99 cents each from the junk yard. so i grabbed 4 of em :)

- Battery died 3 weeks ago then waited 15 minutes and it worked again. Same thing happened today at school. after letting it sit for 15 minutes it turned on. When it was warming up the idle would jump from 900rpm - 1200rpm...then to 700rpm then right back to 900rpm randomly. After battery was full idle was fine. Edit: Defective Battery, Replaced with a properly cca rated battery

...Some things you need to know...should of changed oil 1.5 weeks ago. symptons accured 5/27/05 and i tuned the ecu yesterday. *which means symptoms arent caused by the tuner*

Please help! all help is appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hahah naw i need help! unless we have simluar problems.

im guessing that brake light problem has something to do with me loosing cruise control

-Mike
 

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Have you tried re-seating the chip? Maybe it's not making good contact and is making the EEC all crazy.

Just a thought...

Jay
 

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FordMan77 said:
Have you tried re-seating the chip? Maybe it's not making good contact and is making the EEC all crazy.

Just a thought...

Jay

He's got an EEC tuner that flashes the computer through the OBDII diagnostics port. No chip involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SanDiegoLXBird said:
Unplug your maf. Turn car on. If symptoms remain, replace MAF.
well went to try to turn the car on and the battery is stone cold dead. turned it into ignition and all lights and sounds stopped. could that be the problem to the maf seeing how it was a dinky 10V battery and is very old?

-Mike
 

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okay, you said this all started before you tuned the car right? if so, the only thing i see you needing/requireing a tune are the cold plugs (adj. timing) and possibly the 180* stat (to turn on fan at right temp). but those are not a big deal, i would go back to stock config. and fix your electrical problems first. why a 10volt battery? you really saving that much wieght? get a proper battery and when you do test the system, you should see about 11.5V across the battery with the engine off and 13.5-14 with the engine running.

have you checked for blown fuses?

checked connections on the maf and other 'stuff' used to control idel (iac, tps, etc)

what about your hid system? proper grounds

sounds like you have some serious electrical gremlins, i suggest you go back to stock on the eec and work from there


good luck
 

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MLPS...

If you're MLPS sensor has a bad attachment or is wiggiling loose then when you go to start it, it'll do like you're talking about.

When I swapped mine, which was when I realized the harness was bad, I would have to wiggle the harness to get the car to start sometimes and when I was driving down the road it would just...die.

Take an ohm meter and measure the battery and then report in, AutoZone and Advance Auto (my fav) check batterys, alt, and starters for free.

- Pelezo
 

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also check the brake light switch... that's prolly the problem w/ your cruise and your brake lights.

if switch is busted and the brake lights stay on, the cruise won't come on...

:D
 

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Kaptn' Obvious said:
also check the brake light switch... that's prolly the problem w/ your cruise and your brake lights.

if switch is busted and the brake lights stay on, the cruise won't come on...

:D
Thank you Kaptn' Obvious
I was thinking that in the first place as well.
Alan
 

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Porkchop, I've been having the same exact problem. Mine started about 2 months ago. I haven't been able to do any thing though because of money, or my back problem. Are you throwing a P0102 code? That's what I'm getting. My car is acting the same way. However, I think your battery problem is a seperate issue, I'm not having that. I was just letting mine go because, it was still drivable, and I had no money to fix it any way. So I cleaned the MAF wires, and IAT sensor as well. Side note: I installed a 9" K+N filter last year which left the IAT hanging out of the intake tract. Thinking it might help, I drilled a hole into the intact tube just past the MAF and put it back into the air stream. Performance did pick up, but did nothing for the problem at hand. Then one day, I got in and started the car, while it was warming up, it started to develope a steady miss. Now what? The plugs are fresh (just installed in Jan.), the wires are fresh(last july), nothing is loose and it's been purring (except for the idle issue). Now, on top of the MAF problem, it has developed a bad, steady miss, and is throwing raw, unburned gas out the exhaust, like an injector is hanging up. I haven't been able to pull the plugs because of my back issues. I suspect that the MAF has been the root of the problem. But, now I fear there may be a problem with the computer. In my research here and on the web, I discovered that it may be the problem. Does any one have any input about that. I too need to get my T'bird back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: Cant Jump start car anymore and wont turn over at all. no click or noise happens. man i really dont want this car anymore :(
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Battery replaced, Alt is fine, replaced battery cables and connectors.

Unplugged the Maf and it idled just as fine as it was plugged in. was i supposed to drive around? ill do that later seeing how im off to work now.

-Mike
 

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porkchop2oo2 said:
Update: Cant Jump start car anymore and wont turn over at all. no click or noise happens. man i really dont want this car anymore :(
I'm in the same boat, been dealing with the transmission problems for six months...

- Pelezo
 
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