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Discussion Starter #1
Yes I am searching! dont flame me pls.

Previous history on motor: The car had been making ticking noise at 2000-3000rpms for over a year, not loud though. I figured sludge built up and the valves are far from the oil pump so they were running a little dry. I engine flushed the oil system (I do once a year either way). This did nothing. So I drove it for 1 year ticking and then finnally

Last sunday: i started my bird up after work. PING!PING!PING!PING! (turn's ignition off :redmad: F!) Now it is not ticking, it is LOUD!

Ive finnally destroyed one of the connecting rod bearings. (I think)
I looked under the valve covers and they look immaculate... so im assuming that my possible valve noise is caused from a oil leak around that connecting rod bearing where i lose oil pressure, then far away places like the valves get less oil and run louder than usual. maybe

Gimme the low down or hookup to a link if any y'all know, it'd help be a bundle.

Im gettin a motor for $550 shipped with 1yr warranty (junkyard warranty?!?!? cool!) Im gonna do it myself. Ive done this once before with my oldman but he has since passed away and im takin over his roll as man of the house so it's on me now.

Im expectin at least-
1.motor/trans mounts
2. coolant/oil/trans fluid/freon
3.dont list tools that are extreemly obvious, like engine hoist! but sizes and wrenchs, swivels etc! thank you all so much. keep these tbirds lookin and drivin better than new!
 

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what kind of motor did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
stock 4.6 1995. transplanting in another 1995 4.6
 

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waste of $$ for a 95 motor dude in my opinion

they may warranty the parts, but you still have to pull the damn motor out
 

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I would have gone with a later model motor, but if you want it to be EXACTLY plug and play then I can see why you're doing it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would have gone with a later model motor, but if you want it to be EXACTLY plug and play then I can see why you're doing it that way.
trust me i am still considering the 96-7 b/c of the better heads, more torque, and you can actually see the egr assembly and that is a lot nicer setup there.

but.... im goin to school and work so i really dont want to mess with too much (too late!).

i dont want to start chaning throttle cables and get the intake setup. my cash, same as many of us, is very very limited. car, school, house, girl, bills, ect.... im broke. Ive got about $850 right now to spend on it and then I'm tapped.

my tax refund is -$90 so thats not helpin me any:tongue:

thanks for the help in advance.
!ryan!
 

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Dude, just get a 03-04 explorer engine, it is a plug and play. Better engine, newer engine, better flowing. The 95 is crap..
 

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Dude, just get a 03-04 explorer engine, it is a plug and play. Better engine, newer engine, better flowing. The 95 is crap..
the explorer motor is NOT a direct swap in the 94-95's you have to swap the front cover, oil pan, the egr system and I believe the throttle cable and there are some other things that i can't remever off of the top of my head.

I have a 95 and have been doing the search to see what route I will go with when I finally get around to doing something other than general maint on mine.

But all in all if I was gonna do a swap i would go with the exp motor over a 96-97 motor cause if you go with the 96-97 you are gonna have to swap all that stuff anyway
 

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the explorer motor is NOT a direct swap in the 94-95's you have to swap the front cover, oil pan, the egr system and I believe the throttle cable and there are some other things that i can't remever off of the top of my head.

I have a 95 and have been doing the search to see what route I will go with when I finally get around to doing something other than general maint on mine.

But all in all if I was gonna do a swap i would go with the exp motor over a 96-97 motor cause if you go with the 96-97 you are gonna have to swap all that stuff anyway

It was plug and play for me. Easiest thing ever.. Surely you have to change some parts, but nothing out of this world.
 

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the explorer motor is NOT a direct swap in the 94-95's you have to swap the front cover, oil pan, the egr system and I believe the throttle cable and there are some other things that i can't remever off of the top of my head.

I have a 95 and have been doing the search to see what route I will go with when I finally get around to doing something other than general maint on mine.

But all in all if I was gonna do a swap i would go with the exp motor over a 96-97 motor cause if you go with the 96-97 you are gonna have to swap all that stuff anyway
That don't seem like a big deal with the engine out of the car. Its not like you are re timing camshafts. Anything other than a 95 engine is going need work anyway.
 

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Agreed about the newer motor, whats 10 minutes to swap an oil pan and timing cover? I converted to the 96/7 top end no problem either, lengthen a total of 4 wires, swap some little pieces, and done.

A 95-95 swap is just a bad idea, they burn oil by nature, the egr ports clog up with carbon, the egr valve is impossible to get to, ect. ect.
 

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Hey to answer question 3 number 8 -10-13-15 socket and end wrenches are what you will mostly need to swap motors. a couple different lngth extensions. you will probably need trans mts. also some front end parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey to answer question 3 number 8 -10-13-15 socket and end wrenches are what you will mostly need to swap motors. a couple different lngth extensions. you will probably need trans mts. also some front end parts.
welp thanks for the only useful reply I got on this topic. I was asking for tips. The motor is here 68,000miles $550 shipped no tax, 1yr war. Direct- absolute direct swap!

Get me a explorer motor for $550 with 68,000mi on it and Im all over it.
I am broke remember this!

How much you pay for your explorer motor!

BTW not tryin to sound like an a$S one of my old friends passed away today from an OD and Im pissed at that dumass.

Explorer motor vs. 95 stock Tbird Motor - Exp wins duh! its a lot more money I dont have!

The motor I have 95 lasted 310,000mi so I cant complain. And it will still spin the tire (one tire F'n open rear) and chirp it all the way up to 310,000.

DONT FORGET TBIRD/COUG OWNERS WE HAVE GROCERY GETTERS! NOT RACE CARS! THEY LOOK SLICK BUT I LIKE CRUISING SLOW TO SHOW OFF MY NICE ASS CLEAN DETROIT "MUSCLE" (of it's day '94!). Im not racing this thing! I just want to go to school for 2-3 more years and then rebuild a 3 or 4 valve 4.6 cobra or new gt motor when I get a real career! I just need to get from A to B (and look cool as hell doin it!)
 

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You shouldn't need Freon Just unbolt the A/C compressor from the block and push it to the side. That way you don't have to discharge the system.

tbird95tbird gave you the bulk of the sockets you need. He's right on there. I just did a similar swap in January. It's nice to have regular length and long sockets in those sizes. As well I used 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive.
Feel free to PM me and I can give you my phone number and I can tell you what I found easy and what was a pain.

Definitely spend some time cleaning out the EGR setup!
 

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I know the whole gas mileage thing has been argued but I still get great gas mileage considering my mods. I've never checked it but I'm guessing it's over the 20 mpg mark.

Plus it's a PITA to hook it all up, and it looks much cleaner without it.
 
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