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Discussion Starter #1
Just seeing if there is any interest in a version of my poly motor mounts for the 4.6l cars?

To give you an idea, they will look similar in construction to my 3.8 mounts...



I have the design work done on the 4.6 mounts, but unless I see that there's any interest I'm not going to bother buying lasered parts.

For reference the current selling price would be $155/set
 

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I think you'd be much better off doing just the centers and selling them that way. Use OEM mounts as cores and you can sell them for a LOT less. Then make everybody send you their old mounts after they swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The stock bushing design is unacceptable, which is why I don't make just replacement bushings. The upper bracket is fully floating and the bushings never have to act in tension...only compression.

I've been selling replacement HD mounts for several applications for 3-1/2 years now, with 200+ units in service across several applications. I've been running prototypes in my vehicles for longer, so I think I have a grasp on what works.

I understand the desire for inexpensive parts, but seriously...my pricing is VERY good for what you are getting.
 

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how much are the 3.8's? just curious...
 

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Yes! I am interested RIGHT NOW. I have my k-member out and the engine hanging by a chain. The motor mounts are the only things keeping me from putting it back together. I will not put another set of SCP or OEM motor mounts on that will only last a year. What payment do you take and how soon can you ship them?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
how much are the 3.8's? just curious...
The price is listed above.

i would be interested....later this year......how do you plan to make these available? continuously as people pay for them, or only in limited batches with a minimum # of orders?
Right now I work in small rotating batches (as I have 6-7 different types of mounts I manf.). Batches can be as small as 5 sets (with 3 confirmed orders being enoough to get me to buy parts). I just can't afford to dump a bunch of money into keeping alot of "stock" on-hand.

Yes! I am interested RIGHT NOW. I have my k-member out and the engine hanging by a chain. The motor mounts are the only things keeping me from putting it back together. I will not put another set of SCP or OEM motor mounts on that will only last a year. What payment do you take and how soon can you ship them?
Realistically, if I got enough confirmation by the end of the next week, I run about 4-6 weeks currently on time to shipment from the beginning of the process. It depends on my material suppliers primarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
whats the benefit of these over the solid ones you can get off of scp?
I assume you're talking about the solid rubber ones? The solid rubber replacement isolators still have to try to work in tension....which they shouldn't have to. This puts a limit on their stength. My mounts being the full floating type give some compliance while not sacrificing strength. You won't rip an isolator in two in my mounts, you'll be tearing steel.

Some more examples can be seen HERE
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Chuck,honesty I think you're wasting your time-you'll have 50 people that will swear that they want them,but when it comes down to actually sending money..you'll get 2-3 that'll come through. That's the main reason that I quit selling the parts I made. That,and work schedule.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Chuck,honesty I think you're wasting your time-you'll have 50 people that will swear that they want them,but when it comes down to actually sending money..you'll get 2-3 that'll come through. That's the main reason that I quit selling the parts I made. That,and work schedule.
JL

Oh trust me, I'm not going to order parts for a bunch of units based on replies to a forum post. I only take orders via email, so only the folks who are genuinely interested contact me and, while I've had a few flakes (less than a handful out of 200+), there have been no issues. I set definite timelines on when payment are due and keep people apprised of the progress of the batch/orders. Like I said, I can also work in small batches (which suits my schedule). I also understand it takes a while for new audiences to pick up on them. I've seen that every time I've introduced a new application. I designed my first 2.3T mounts back in '01-02, and it took until late '03 before folks finally took notice.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Oh trust me, I'm not going to order parts for a bunch of units based on replies to a forum post. I only take orders via email, so only the folks who are genuinely interested contact me and, while I've had a few flakes (less than a handful out of 200+), there have been no issues. I set definite timelines on when payment are due and keep people apprised of the progress of the batch/orders. Like I said, I can also work in small batches (which suits my schedule). I also understand it takes a while for new audiences to pick up on them. I've seen that every time I've introduced a new application. I designed my first 2.3T mounts back in '01-02, and it took until late '03 before folks finally took notice.
One other thing you're gonna have to deal with...the different block configurations for the 4.6L-if your mounts are any different than the OE piece on the top engine mounting plate-there's no way it'll work on the windsor or aluminum blocks.
JL
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Care to expand on that a bit?
With the OEM mounts,if you use an aluminum or windsor block-you have to get a grinder out to "clearance" the block so the mount will clear. They're both different than the Romeo iron block,and in different ways. The lower bracket will also have to have the bolt head recessed to clear the K-member.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
With the OEM mounts,if you use an aluminum or windsor block-you have to get a grinder out to "clearance" the block so the mount will clear. They're both different than the Romeo iron block,and in different ways.
Well I would need to see where the "issue" is. My mounts are much more compact than the stockers. A comparison on the 3.8 mounts can be seen HERE. I know it's not the same thing, but the 4.6 design is similar.


The lower bracket will also have to have the bolt head recessed to clear the K-member.
JL
You sure about that? I already have a couple later cars with the 3.8 mounts running with the same lower brackets. No recessing of the bolt head was necc. I'm pretty sure the K-member was the same between the 3.8 and 4.6 cars on the 93+ ones. All the sample mounts seem to have indicated that.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Well I would need to see where the "issue" is. My mounts are much more compact than the stockers. A comparison on the 3.8 mounts can be seen HERE. I know it's not the same thing, but the 4.6 design is similar.




You sure about that? I already have a couple later cars with the 3.8 mounts running with the same lower brackets. No recessing of the bolt head was necc. I'm pretty sure the K-member was the same between the 3.8 and 4.6 cars on the 93+ ones. All the sample mounts seem to have indicated that.
You'd need a block of each kind to do your comparison. The lower bracket might be OK-if you make it higher from the mounting pad of the center section and the bolts centerline. I have a set of solid rubber mounts that had some stud hanging out approx 1/2" longer than stock,and it would rub on the k-member's perch causing vibration issues. Took that 1/2 off with the grinder,and now it has about 1/4" of clearance.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You'd need a block of each kind to do your comparison. The lower bracket might be OK-if you make it higher from the mounting pad of the center section and the bolts centerline. I have a set of solid rubber mounts that had some stud hanging out approx 1/2" longer than stock,and it would rub on the k-member's perch causing vibration issues. Took that 1/2 off with the grinder,and now it has about 1/4" of clearance.
JL
Well, on the lower bracket, like I said..they didn't have to grind or change anything. I had an issue with the very first 93-97 lower brackets due to a measuring error on my part and they wound up short. I corrected that and they were installed and are currently being run w/o issue. It's a close fit, but there is clearance.

On the upper bracket, since I don't have access to a Windsor or AL block, I guess someone who has swapped in one will need to chime in on what the clearance issue was.
 

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Here is a post that shows how an upper bracket was modified. I just ground the offending protrusion from my block so there shouldn't be an issue, right?

I also seem to recall having the issue with the bolt at the bottom of the mount touching the k-member. I think I just drilled a hole in the k-member. I will have to look at it when I get home.
 
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