TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My transmission fried in my 97 Thunderbird 4.6, and I'm really really broke and can't afford to have it fixed...and I have a perfectly good AOD from a 92 Mustang sitting in my garage and I'm wondering if there's any possible way that it could work in my Bird. I pretty much know that it's a no-go, but I'm desperate and need to know...


Thanks,


--Brian.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Possible?Yes.Cheap?No. Lentech automatics offers an AOD for 4.6 cars, but it is pricey.you would also need a custom chip to turn off the ECM's transmission function. then you would need to address the TV cable issue.compaired to a $400 junk yard tranny it is not a good idea for the money.
 

·
Cougar Pilot
Joined
·
3,443 Posts
Hey you're in Pelican Rapids now? That's not so far from here.

I know where to find a 4R70W from a '96 Cougar for $350, not sure on the mileage though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
a 5.0/3.8L AOD will NOT bolt up to a 4.6L... the bellhousings are different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, that's what I needed to know!

TurboCat, I sent you a pm :)


--Brian.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
And how brutal is a tranny swap on these bad boys? I'm pretty mechanical, I did a cam/heads/intake install on my 92 5.0 over the winter without any problems, think the tranny swap is something I could handle? :confused:


Thanks

--Brian.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
It's up to you.
It doesn't require anything special, but it's a h$%# of a lot of work.

First, disconnect the battery cable.
Drain the fuel tank. (Yes, that's what I said.)

If you have a lift, ignore the points about jacking it up...

Jack the car up and support it firmly from the rear. (Yes, the rear...)
Unbolt the resonator from the exhaust pipe and muffler.
I find it easier to just remove the fricken' thing entirely, but it can be left in place.

Mark the driveshaft to differential connection with paint so that you can replace it the way it came off. Chiseling marks 'could' lead to fatigue/breakage.

Use a 12 point socket to remove the bolts from the driveshaft flange. I think they are 9/16, but I don't recall for certain. You will have to rotate the driveshaft with the transmission in neutral, parking brake disengaged, and the rear wheels off the ground to get all of them. This is ONE reason you lift the rear end first.

Remove the bolt holding the fuel filler tube to the body on the passenger side.
Remove the bolts from the drivers side fuel tank support. Front and rear.
Place a jack under the fuel tank. Use a large 2x12 or similar on the jack pad to prevent damage to the tank when lifting/dropping it.
Support the tank with the jack and remove the passenger side tank strap retaining bolts. Lower the tank (~8") enough to drop the disconnected driveshaft from the differential and slide it back until it disengages from the transmission. Remove it from under the car and store it away safely. (Shiny parts will rust - this is bad.)

Carefully jack the tank back into position and replace the bolts, not tight, but enough that the threads don't rip out. You'll have to repeat this procedure to replace the driveshaft later.

Let the rear of the car down, and jack up the front. It MUST be at least 18" from the bottom of the lowest part (crossmember or oil pan) to the ground. This is so you can get the transmission out from under the car!

Support it VERY FIRMLY on stands, and possibly on ramps as well (In case one of those Chinese stands gives way...)

Remove the header pipes and cat. converters. Store safely away. Be careful not to contaminate the O2 sensors with silicon, coolant, etc.

Remove the starter bolts and remove starter wiring. Store starter away.
(Wouldn't hurt to re-brush the motor while it's out - it's pathetically undersized.)

Remove cover plate from torque converter drain and rotate engine till you see the drain plug - remove it and drain the converter. While it's draining...

Unplug the transmission wiring to body harness. Unclip it from the crossmember, and move the body harness out of harms way.

Unhook the shifter cable from the tranny lever, remove the shifter cable bracket and move cable out of harms way.

Remove the cooler lines (2) from the passenger side of the trans. Use a crowfoot wrench or they may round off. I believe they are 1/2".

Replace the converter drain plug.

Remove the torque converter/flex plate bolt cover and, while rotating engine appropriately, remove the nuts retaining the convertor (4). Press back on the converter studs and make certain it is free of the flex plate.

Remove all bellhousing bolts but two - one on each side.

Place a jack under the trans, centered about 1" back from the front of the pan. I use the aforementioned piece of wood to protect the pan and help distribute the load evenly.

Jack up the trans slightly, and remove the crossmember.
Remove the remaining bellhousing bolts.

Pray you can detach the tranny from the engine easily. Some models apparently had some kind of corrosive sealer applied that makes separating them a real *****.

Carefully move the jack and trans rearward until the torque converter clears the engine. Lower it to the ground, make sure nothing hangs or tears. You may have to jockey the lowering/moving routine to get things clear.

If you left the minimum clearance of 18", slide an old piece of carpet under the car, and slide the trans. off of the jack and onto the carpet. If you left enough room, (18" + jack pad height) you can just roll the hole mess out from under the front of the car. Otherwise, slide it out on the carpet. It is HEAVY!

Remove the torque converter and immediately COVER THE pump drive shaft (hole).
Anything that gets in there can destroy the converter/transmission at a later date.

Reverse the procedure to replace.
I believe this is a complete step by step procedure.

Good Luck,
Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
There is one omission in the above text...

Remove the two driveshaft hoops from the body before removing the driveshaft.

Another thing. I'm uncertain as the the new models, but the older T-Birds have a maddening mix of Metric and SAE (US) bolts holding various things together. Hope you have a complete set of BOTH before starting this job. All the tranny internals are Metric, but the cooler lines and the shifter cable bracket are SAE. On the crossmember, the end bolts are SAE, but the big center support bolt is metric. And if I recall correctly, the mount to transmission bolts are SAE. Cripes!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Holy crap, thanks for the detailed rundown!! :eek: You guys are awesome, thanks a million! :thumbsup:


-Brian.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Fathead.97.LX said:
Holy crap, thanks for the detailed rundown!! :eek: You guys are awesome, thanks a million! :thumbsup:
-Brian.
It was fresh in my memory, having just performed such an operation.
Maybe the text will make it into the "Technical Info" pages of infamy... :znanner:

Besides, I just couldn't resist helping out someone in MN - I hear about it all the time from my better half... :cool: Personally, I would freeze to death there - Florida is more my speed.

Now maybe someone will answer MY question about the one piece teflon output shaft/direct clutch and input shaft/pump seals on a 4R70W... :bangwall:

Good Luck with your Project! :zbeer: And don't forget those sturdy jack stands!
Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
lol, thanks Greg...everybody freezes to death here, we just don't admit it. ;)

--Brian.
 

·
The Parts Guy
Joined
·
7,360 Posts
I have one 4.6L style 4R70W left in stock right now. If you're interested in it, shoot me an email at [email protected].

-Rod
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
you could drop the gas tank (done that once)..or you could just undo 6 bolts that hold the diff in place, and slide the driveshaft back... its a whole lot easier that way.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top