[Silenced]

I'm a visual person, so It really helps me to see what I'm going to be looking at ahead of time. Does anyone have pictures of what I have to remove to get one of the rear spindles off? I haven't ever taken one off before. My only other concern is the circlips. Are those anything to worry about? or are they just something to wrap around the halfshaft's end gears to hold the thing in?

Thanks,
-Ryan

 

[Traveler]

Ryan, if you come down to the Fix it meet on May 4-6 (or just on Sat.) I'm sure we can get the rear end put in the car. I don't have any pics of it, but I've done it 2-3 times now. The only really hard part is lifting the new one in. (They're HEAVY!)

That is if you can wait that long.

 

[joshbea6]

All you need to lift it into place is a good low profile floor jack with a wide saddle. Can be had at Harbor Freight for about $80.00

in order to get the rear diff out, you need to do the following:

1. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the driveshaft to the Diff
2. Remove the rear brakes (if disc)
3. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the rear spindle to the upper and lower control arms
4. Use a screwdriver to pry each halfshaft out of the diff
5. Remove the 2 mounting bolts that attach the front of the Diff to the IRS.
6. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the Rear diff hanger to the IRS.

***it is easier to remove the Rear Diff and re-install it if you remove the whole rear bracket WITH the Diff, and not remove the 2 bolts that mount the diff to the bracket.***

I do this every time that I swap my 3.73's for the fuel economy 2.73's (usually around 3-4 times per year)

If you have any questions, let me know.

-Josh

 

[Silenced]

Ok, that makes a lot more sense, thanks guys! It would still be nice to have a pic of a circlip if anone has one, but I think I can figgure it out now.

Joel and I are going to try and make it up to Pick'n'pull first, and I'm going to try and drop the differential out of one up there first. that way I atleast have some experience at doing it

Josh, you mind if I copy you on the lower gear swap for fuel economy? I figgure the gas mileage might pay for the fluid if I left lower gears in long enough. heh, Just throw a different differential in when the track closes... I like that idea.

 

[joshbea6]

As far as the fuel economy goes, I do 3 things.

1. Swap my 3.73's and the speedo gear out for the 2.73's and speedo gear
2. Swap my custom burned EEC for a stock EEC
3. Swap my larger MAF for the stock MAF

When I'm in "track" formation, I get about 200-225 miles to the tank. When I'm in "street" formation, I'm still not completely sure, but I know it is above 300 miles to the tank. I'll be able to get more when I track down where the vacuum leak is in the engine. I'm still getting a lean code, and unsure what it is from, so I know that I'm still dumping fuel into the engine to compensate for it.

It takes me about an hour and a half to do the total swap.

Feel free to email me with any questions.

 

[big mike]

its easy to drop and reinstall a pumpkin. a piece of advice: mark the rear driveshaft yoke and pinion flange with a white or silver paint pen. that will help with bolting the driveshaft back up. i didnt do this and i had a difficult time threading the bolts into the flange. turns out i threaded them into the holes that were not initially occupied by the bolts. i took them out and rotated the driveshaft to the other set of holes. much much easier. coat a few threads with red loctite. air tools help alot, and wear goggles if you use them cuz the impact gun will shoot dust everywhere. the spindle bolts are 18mm, and the corresponding nuts are 21mm. top pumpkin bolts are 15mm i think and and the bottom nuts are 21mm. good luck.

 

[Silenced]

Crap... Can't find circlips! I'm probably going to have to get some from Pick'n'pull lol.

Is there any trick to not fubar'n them when removing the halfshafts?

Also, I was suggested lithium grease to put on the halfshafts and driveshaft ends when installing. Anyone have objections to that?

Thanks,
-Ryan

 

[Traveler]

I've just used a small prybar (or large screwdriver) to gently move the halfshafts out of the differential. Never had to replace the Circlips. Just go easy on them, and they'll pop out safely.

 

[Tbird1997]

I'm going to bump this thread from the dead

No need to start a new thread and good info in this one!


I am installing my 3.73 aluminum diff tomorrow afternoon and have a few questions..

It looks as if I could get away with removing just one half shaft and then the other side will just slide out without too much trouble (installing the new one might be tricky going this route tho). What do you guys think? I currently only have one locking axle nut so this would be great. lol..

Second question. I noticed the tech article about a diff swap, it was good but not a lot of details. Are there any other threads/articles you guys have on hand that I could read through?

Any other tips/or problems I might run into would be great!

Thanks guys!

 

[Rodeo Joe]

It looks as if I could get away with removing just one half shaft and then the other side will just slide out without too much trouble (installing the new one might be tricky going this route tho).

That's how I swapped my first one in!

Joe