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I had over 135,000 miles on my old T-Bird when the Speedo stopped working. I drove the car for another 2-4 years after the break. I figured I had about 190,000 with all the trips up north and such about 2000 miles a month.

Prior to the hit and run, I took the 95 in to a suspension shop and the Mechanic (friend of a friend) told me it was the worst he had seen in a while. The ball joints looked like they had mushrooms of grease growing out of the sides of the seal. He explained that when you hear a noise or feel vibration you have waited too long.

So, I guess my point is, maybe we should post pics of before and after ball joint replacements. Some of the members, such as my self have limited funds. It might save a car and a member’s life to show what a bad ball joint looks like. Then, instead of buying a new center console or clear headlights. The others could see and compare the pictures of bad ball joints to their own. Then replace then accordingly

I had the luck to pop a ball joint in an older mustang when I was going about 10 MPH in a parking lot. I turned too sharp and it gave out. I could see how bad it would be at eighty...
 

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Here's a picture of a good ball joint. It's circled in red. Notice how no grease is coming out? There are also no tears in the rubber boot.



And yes, that is a picture of racecougar's car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was refering to the pics of severly bad ball joints.
 

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and if they look like that you need to stop drivin like Shhhh and save about 500-1000 dollars to get it fixed. Drive slow and take bumps slow, just realize how at any second, one of your front wheels can and eventually will fall off.
Get both upper + lower control arms (balljoints are inside of those:thumbsup:) and sway bar endlinks, that should resolve your frontend suspension problems.

unless you need springs/struts... :(
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Mine looked that bad

My upper fronts were so ****ed up that I just grabbed the boot and tore the whole thing off. I later replaced them and most of my suspension.
 

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how long can u run like that? i tore the hell out of my boot, trying to use a pickle fork to seperate that ****
 

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whats the best replacement for the upper wishbone and lower control arm? ford oem or aftermarket? anyone have the prices off the top of thier heads looking to rebuild my front in a few boots just started to tear and shocks are shot

oh and are greaseable joints available for our cars off the shelf?
 

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Every aftermarket piece I've seen is greaseable. Get the Motorcraft UCA's for the front for about $45 a piece from Jason. Don't get OEM ones because they aren't greaseable. Motorcraft LCA's are like $95 a piece and are greaseable as well. Moog and TRW are good aftermarket brands if you want to go that route, and your pricing will depend on how well your connections are to a parts store.
 

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I got greasable Moog UCA's HERE.

The Moog part numbers are:

1989 - 1995 Ford Control Arm, Price: $75.95 Qty: 1, Part #: MOK8596

1989 - 1995 Ford Control Arm, Price: $75.95 Qty: 1, Part #: MOK8598

One's the left the other is the right. I don't remember which is which.
 

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i just checked mine...

that was just a small crack in the boot a few months ago, guess i've got another project this weekend:mad:
Matt-

The uppers aren't that hard to do , took me three hours or so to do both sides. Believe it or not there is a Ford part number and a Motorcraft part number. Jk89cat found that out when he ordered the Fords and they did not come with new pinch bolts like the Motorcrafts.

-Miller
 

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definently get the greesable ones, i messed up and got OEM replacements.:(
 

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I heard that the greaseable one's don't last as long because there open at the zerk fitting and allow dirt rain and such in to destroy the ball joint. Thus causing the rips and such. The sealed one last longer because nothing can get into them.
To me it makes sense.
 

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The zerk fitting is closed until grease forces it open so I don’t see how dirt could get in. I put vacuum line caps on all my zerks anyway. Keeps em clean.
 

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Mine looked like this before I replaced them. I drove with them like this for about two years. Granted, I didn't drive aggressively. Fast may be but no canyon carving.



Here's My New Moog UCA with grease fitting, Sport shock, and Vogtland Spring. Note the zerk fitting. No Dirt or Rain getting in there.

 
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