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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have another thread (AOD-E minor problem), that I updated the accumulators, and performed the Jmod on. The day after getting it back together I lost 3rd and 4th. Initially after getting it back together it worked fine. I was starting to think I did something wrong, but I was VERY careful in my work, and it did drive fine right after reassembly.

After the initial frustration wore off, I decided to pull the pan/valve body to figure out what happened. I do NOT know automatic transmissions, but AM very mechanically inclined.

Anyway, after pulling the pan, there are no metal partcles in the pan, so thankfully looks like no catastropic failure anyway. However, fluid is brown and burned.

So was my tranny just on the way out, and the increased shift firmness finished it off, or did I do something wrong? By the way, I Jmodded to the "mild" setting, since car is completely stock.

I do have a confession: After getting it back together, I started normal driving and all was fine. I also tried giving it hell (WOT runs) just to test it out, and it did fine. However, it was the last WOT that I lost 3rd. I went 1st to 2nd at WOT, let off at that point, but still heavy throttle, and the shift to 3rd felt like something dragging....after that is when I noticed the smeall....

Was out of a 94 mustang, 124K.

Thanks,

-Alan
 

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The common problem lies in the direct accumulator piston. In some cases removing the spring will allow the piston to leave the bore. This seems very prone to early cases while later cases didn't have as much problem. The retainer has to be completely straight inthe bore. If it gets crooked at all the end result is exactly your problem. The early bonded pistons were less likely to do this as they had a bigger "lip" on the small end. The new ones are much thinner and smaller. I haven't found a source for the older ones, they are obsolete now. I have resorted to using the plastic 4 seal one to prevent these problems and have not had a problem since.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The common problem lies in the direct accumulator piston. In some cases removing the spring will allow the piston to leave the bore. This seems very prone to early cases while later cases didn't have as much problem. The retainer has to be completely straight inthe bore. If it gets crooked at all the end result is exactly your problem. The early bonded pistons were less likely to do this as they had a bigger "lip" on the small end. The new ones are much thinner and smaller. I haven't found a source for the older ones, they are obsolete now. I have resorted to using the plastic 4 seal one to prevent these problems and have not had a problem since.
Alan
Oh man, that is not cool...not cool at all. I don't blame anyone but myself, since I took the chance and did the mod, so I don't fault anyone but me.

Having said that, I wish I would have known that tidbit of info. As much searching as I did I was lead to believe leaving out the springs will increase the firmness of the shift.

Now that you mention it, I dropped the main control, and the retainer was "cocked" (it wasn't when I put it in). However, I was able to push the accumulator back up, so it didn't come completely out of the bore...is that what happens, or does it just come down to far to ever "go back up"?

One thing I noticed, one of the "tabs" on the retainer must have been perfectly lined up with the "pacman" cutout on that plate on top of the main control. Only thing I can guess is that tab went down into the cutout of the packman, and caused the accumulator to come too far down-again it didn't come completely out of the bore...........anyway, that is just a guess on my part based on the info I have.

By the way, thank you Dirtydog for the replies. I do appreciate the help/advice.

I am trying to figure out how I am going to proceed. I know its a 94 tranny (junk), but it is the origional tranny for this car,which aside from the milage is in great shape. Hell, everything works on it, right down to the a/c and OEM CD player.

I am almost tempted to take a stab at rebuilding it myself, but I've never done an automatic. I just remember my sons car (1971 tornino) I suggested buying a performance trans from a well known tranny remanufacturer, and well, after taking it out and intalling a half a dozen times, don't want to go thru that again.

Plus, locally, if I go in and tell them I modded the valve body, I'm afraid they wont touch the trans, or give me any warranty at all.

What to do.........

-Alan
 

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The piston doesn't completely fall out but it goes down far enough to leak. Try putting it back together again and it may fix it. The first time I ever did this on my car I had the problem and I immediately took it back apart and fixed it and then the trans lasted about 2 years before I broke the roller clutch.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Too late.........I am at the point of no going back-trans is almost out of the car.

I plan on going ahead and getting a good book on the aode, a master rebuild kit, and would like to go ahead and replace the roller clutch with the upgraded mechanical diode since my occasional 2nd gear loss is what prompted this whole mess.

I don't expect anyone to tell me how to rebuild a tranny, but the mechanical diode......is there any good info on detailing what exactly needs to be done/replaced to upgrade from the stock roller clutch?

Oh, and any other word of wisdom or advice is much appreciated.

Thanks again for the help/suggestions,

-Alan

PS Where is the best place to get the rebuild kit that has the good friction material? Cost is a factor, but I want to put decent parts in this thing so I won't have to do it again anytime in the near future. I know I lack the experience, but I do have patience and a very good attention to detail. And if specialty tools are required, I don't mind buyig those as well.
 

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I noticed this thread today, my first 95 Crown Vic lost 3rd and 4th one day after I put in a shift kit. Back then I didn't know enough about the internet to have hunted any answers. I replaced it with a 97 CV trans, which I know now isn't all that much better.

Take your time with the trans, I think that AODE can be built well. I have a 94 GT myself, so I'll watch what you do with a budget project, I need to go into mine some day to upgrade some things.

The mechanical diode is the first thing behind the front pump, the easiest part to install or swap. They all need the aftermarket spiral rings to lock the diode on, instead of the stock snap ring. I bought a new one for just over $135, but they are not hard to find used either. Let Alan steer you to the better frictions etc. Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You know, the situation is somewhat laughable. I should have known better, because that is just how my luck goes. I searched the forums, and I have not found one other person that this has happened to.

I don't doubt Alan though-its logical that that is the only thing it could be. If it had been related to the work I did on the separator plate, the problem would have showed up immediately, but that wasn't the case.

On the positive side of things, it does give me the opportunity to fix the problem that prompted me to go in the tranny in the first place. I thought the new 1-2 accumulator would have fixed that, but it didn't. As it turns out, it will be a costly mistake, but I do not regret going in the tranny to begin with. That 1-2 accumulator and spring were in BAD shape. I am extremely lucky it didn't screw the bore up to the point of rendering the case/tranny worthless.

I will take my time, and hopefully get it right the first time. I may be a newbie, but the one thing I can do is pay close attention to detail on the cleaning. With my son's transmission that we went thru 3 of, I think that was the biggest problem: Since we bought it from a mass reman performance company, each tranny goes down an assembly line and doesn't get the benefit of individualized attention when it comes to cleaning out all the friction material from all the passages.

-Alan
 

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Yes, debris or contamination of any kind is the worst enemy of a trans. Get an external filter on it if you don't have already. Look back at the build recommendations and change the parts that you can for what you are after. Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, some good news. As it turns out, maybe it was fate that made me lose 3rd and 4th, otherwise I would have never taken the tranny out.

Anyway, I started disassembly today. And my roller clutch is F'D up bad. Well, at least now I know why I didn't have 2nd under heavy/WOT condition.

This is my first attempted rebuild of a tranny, so I really didn't know what to look for. Thank you to the person who posted those videos of the OWC / Mechanical diode in the thread about making sure you got the tranny you paid for.

Anyway, the snap ring was really tight, because the plate under it was buldging up. Was very hard to remove. Once removed, the roller clutch is all chewed up and bent.

By the way, my "gear" (or whatever its called) would not rotate in either direction. It was completely jammed. I don't know if the engine forced it go go in the direction it was supposed to, or if it was just completley locked up.

So, my question-if a OWC doesn't move at all, what would happen?

-Alan
 

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If the OWC locks up, it will kill the direct clutch after it shifts to 3rd.
It must free spin in the counter clockwise direction in 3rd gear. Once in a blue moon I will get a mechanical diode that has failed and it locks up taking out the direct clutch in a smelly mess of ****.
 

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If the OWC locks up, it will kill the direct clutch after it shifts to 3rd.
It must free spin in the counter clockwise direction in 3rd gear. Once in a blue moon I will get a mechanical diode that has failed and it locks up taking out the direct clutch in a smelly mess of ****.
You sir are exactly correct. :thumbsup:

Depending on what goes on immediately after the OWC locks up, the stub shaft can also end up broken.

As soon as he posted what he found I PM'd him what the issue here is and how this caused his whole problem.

Darrin
 

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Hmm, I'll look for that in my 95 trans that I pulled after losing 3/4 gears. It was interesting to drive it to work 20 miles and back that day.

Is that a function of rpm or what, would you guess?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everyone for the help.

The stub shaft is fine; I still haven't got the rest of the tranny apart yet. I know I haven't been active on the boards/done anything with my transmission in the last two days, but....I have a new addition to the family. My daughter was born yesterday, and I am actually posting this from the hospital.

I will update as I progress on the teardown and rebuild, which I hope to have done before next Tuesday since I am taking a week off.

-Alan
 

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Congrats on the birth of your daughter!

Now go take care of more important things like family and forget about transmissions for a while. LOL

Darrin
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Just thought I'd give an update...

I rebuilt the tranny and just got back from a test drive. The good news is all forward gears are back and working perfectly!!!

The bad news is I have no reverse.

After diagnosing the problem with DirtyDog, and my somewhat photographic memory, I am about 99% sure that I reassembled the reverse drum incorrectly. To be specific, I mixed up the front and rear pressure plates, therefore the reverse piston can't apply.

Back out of the car it comes......a stupid stupid stupid mistake; otherwise the trans is working great.

-Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update #2.

Back out of the car, back apart. Was a costly mistake. It was as we suspected-I mixed up the front and rear plates in the reverse drum. It fried the reverse frictions, and rubbed on the bellville plate. Now I have to take it all the way apart again to make sure there is no debris left inside.

Don't I feel stupid, and I'm the one above talking about paying attention to detail, and I let this little detail by me. If I hadn't, I'd have a great running car and a perfectly working transmission. Oh, well....live and learn.

At least I can say that the J-mod I did really didn't have anything to do with my 3rd/4th gear failure, other than maybe stressing an already weak and failing (since I had an intermittant skipped 2nd gear) intermediate one way roller clutch with the slightly firmer shifts.

-Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Final update (I hope):

Got it back together again, and test drove it today, and I am good to go. I owe a big THANK YOU to Darrin, and especialy DirtyDog, who answered my millions of questions thru PMs, and did the leg work on rounding up the rebuild kit, manual, tools, and hard parts I needed. Truly a 1 stop shop for everything I needed. He even installed the new lip seals on the replacement reverse and direct drums for me to save me the cost of the spring compressor. (I changed the seals on the forward drum with C-clamps-a real pain in the rear).

I do have 3 minor lingering issues, but nothing to write home about. A minor leak in the pan gasket of all places LOL-I'll deal with that at "break in" fluid change. I developed an ever so slight OD flare under light throttle application, but since I Jmodded the main controls to the mild setting, I should have probably stuck with the 2.5" OD servo. I put in the 2.7", but used the origional spring for the 2.5" OD servo. Again, I will deal with this during break-in fluid change. I'll probably go back to the 2.5" servo snce my car is bone stock; I'll pick up a new one at the stealership probably this week. Last thing is I can hear clicking in 1st gear that immediately goes away on the shift to 2nd. To me, it sounds exactly like the racheting mechanism of the mechanical diode. -EDIT- After a quick Google search, I don't think its the mechanical diode. I wish I had have found this *before* getting the tranny put back in the car:

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/sn95_TSBs/01-05-08.pdf

-END EDIT-

Can't hear it in the car with the windows up, but its noticable outside the car. Probably not a lot I can do about it, but it sure beats the hell out of my old roller clutch. Oh, and my occasional skipped 2nd gear problem that I had since purchase of the car is GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Again, a BIG thank you DirtyDog!!!!!

By the way; This is my very first transmission rebuild!

I appologize for not getting pics of the whole rebuild process, but I did snap a few pics:

Okay, probably not the ideal workspace, but its far cleaner than my garage:

<img src="http://bak.flinn.com/MyHost/1994%20Mustang%20Transmission%20Rebuild/How%20does%20this%20go%20together.jpg">

Back together again, and no parts left over:

<img src="http://bak.flinn.com/MyHost/1994%20Mustang%20Transmission%20Rebuild/Back%20Together%20again.jpg">

Ready to put in the car:

<img src="http://bak.flinn.com/MyHost/1994%20Mustang%20Transmission%20Rebuild/Ready%20to%20go%20in%20car.jpg">

-Alan
 
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