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Moderator, Red Sox Nation Rabid Fan, TCCoAAC Found
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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone has put a solid rear into an MN12 yet, and removed the IRS. I don't know what car it could be swapped from, but just curious as to if it has been done.
 

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Cougar Pilot
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:search:

;)

Jordan, I really think if it had been done we would have heard about it. This question has been brought up (in a round-a-bout way), and so far I've never seen anything like that.
 

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I got an itch in my you know what....thats getting pretty inflamed recently. I might do something about it here soon....I'm sure you will all know and approve soon enough.

.....Mini-tub....
 

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So with the mini tub are you going to back half the car? Really, the best solution to a solid rear in one of these would be to back half it, I don't think it would be worth them time to fab the solid rear to the stock subframe.
 

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well, i was looking at one of the premade rear units from jegs. But I wont be doing this myself if I go through with it. It will get done professionally, with a finished interior as well.

I would keep the factory rear package tray, and do everything I could to keep the rear seat.
 

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Jedi Master
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don't know what car might have it but if done can it be done with coilovers or will it have to be leaf springs???
 

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While my "other car" was in the chassis shop being backhalved, I really started thinking about having the Cougar done. If you had a qualified chassis builder, it shouldn't be a big deal if you don't want to get too radical, you could just go with a upper/lower control arm setup, of course, then the arms would have to be custom made. I would go with a 4 link setup with coilovers, that's what's going on my other car.
 

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This is how mine will look next year.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is there a way to do it without tubbing anything out? Im sure it's more of a question to direct to a shop.... I know of a guy in Mass, we went and bought parts off of him, he specialized in Suspension setups for street cars. He did some really good work too, we saw the mustangs he had there and he was showing us all the details...
 

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Jordan, all the same principles apply, just without the wheeltubs, you have to setup your geometry, and add some brackets, additional bracing, etc. The easiest way to do it would have to be a ladderbar setup, while the 4 link would give you the most adjustability. It wouldn't be too hard for a chassis builder, but it's probably not something a shadetree mechanic would want to attempt. I've seen cars that were backhalved by owner with the Jegs kit, and unless you get everything setup correctly, it can be a real bear to drive. One guy that works at the shop with me did his own, and didn't get it perfect, took it to the track, and his first launch on about 600HP lifted the front wheels about a foot off the ground, and the car did a 90 degree turn into the wall. BTW: the guy who's doing my other car said he would backhalf the Cougar also, and said for him just to cut the 9", install the cage and rear subframe, and build the 4 link bars would cost me about $2500. That's not including any hard parts, that's all labor and the tubing for the cage and rear frame. I'm in about $6K right now in my other car in just chassis work, and it's not what I would call close yet.
 

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Full Metal
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here's one:
 

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Ladder Bar vs. 4-Link

Rich95XR7 said:
The easiest way to do it would have to be a ladderbar setup, while the 4 link would give you the most adjustability.
Ladderbars are strictly for the strip. A ladder bar suspension binds up when driven on un-even surfaces. A 4-link does not bind up, which is why it is used on back-halved street cars.

68COUGAR
 

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I have ladderbars on my other car, and they don't bind. Of course I have a floating rear axle mount:cool:
 
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