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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Are there any updated to tranny 101? Also a Separator plate?

Are there any updated to tranny 101? Also a Separator plate?

I know I have a stang but this is the site with the tech info. I'm in the process of getting parts to build up an aode with 4r70w parts for my stang. I got a used 95 mustang aode for $50 and I got a used 2000 mustang gt 4r70w for $25. I have Rebuilt the one in my car with the mods in tranny 101.

Are there any updates to the tranny 101? I was reading in modding and plugging the Separator plate where they talk about filling some more holes. Does anyone know what holes he is talking about. Any new info you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brandon

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If you're rebuilding the AODE then add the mechanical diode and its reverse drum... use the updated frictions for the direct/intermediate clutches (make the intermediate a 4 plate, AODE's are 3 plate). You should be able to swap those parts from the 4r70w to the aode. car-part.com I think it is sells a 3 pack of the spiral lock snap rings to hold on the Mech Diode, they're dirt cheap and really necessary. The crappy OEM snap ring can fail at higher rpms. Don't worry about anything extra... just do the Jmod part according to pgs 13 and 14. I've rebuilt an AODE, they aren't that hard if you take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I have rebuilt the aode in my car twice. The first time I got an alto racing rebuild kit with the coted steals. I didn't have the seal protectors and i fudged up the seals so it only lasted about a year. It sucked becuase when i had to do it a second time I couldent afford the alto clutches and coted steals so i had to use a stock kit. Now i'm getting a couple of trans so I can take my time and do it without rushing it.

Thanks,
Brandon
 

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Just curious how you installed the seals without the special tools. I know they're a PITA to do. Did they tear when you installed the piston in the Drum?

Don't worry about the clutch material, if you use the newer stuff for the direct/int. (it looks darker) and the OEM for reverse/forward you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They did tear. So the old ones looked OK so I reused them, BIG mistake. When I took it apart there was metal on metal because the frictions had worn out and some of the steels were warped. This was a kit I dropped $500 on from level ten. Now I know I can get the same kit for about $200 from other places. Now On the second rebuild it's still running strong.

Now after thinking the only problem I have is when I'm going down a hill and my car is costing the RPM of the car will fluctuate. It's like it wants to shift down but it wont.
 
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