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Discussion Starter #1
Like the subject says. I want to know what items to take care of while the transmission is out for some gaskets and seals and the intake manifold is being replaced.

So far this is what I have:
When intake is being replaced, since it is much easier to do:
  • Clean EGR valve and passages.
  • Clean intake ports on engine if dirty
  • Clean throttle body and elbow plenum
  • Clean engine valley, check for leaks from back of water pump to coolant tube.
Transmission out for gaskets and front pump/rear output seal:
  • Check rear main seal on engine.
Please post asap what else I can take care of while these items are out.
 

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/How are your heater core and vacuum hoses?
I'm not sure on the 4.6L engine routing but I assume that there are some inconveniently placed hoses that will be easier to get to with the intake off.
Also, what about the fuel injectors? Checking their spray pattern/cleaning them, sending them out to be cleaned, and/or replacing the seals/pintles might be worth it if they are original.

Finally, if your transmission (assuming automatic here) is out, does your torque converter match your application/needs?
 

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Like the subject says. I want to know what items to take care of while the transmission is out for some gaskets and seals and the intake manifold is being replaced.

So far this is what I have:
When intake is being replaced, since it is much easier to do:
  • Clean EGR valve and passages.
  • Clean intake ports on engine if dirty
  • Clean throttle body and elbow plenum
  • Clean engine valley, check for leaks from back of water pump to coolant tube.
Transmission out for gaskets and front pump/rear output seal:
  • Check rear main seal on engine.
Please post asap what else I can take care of while these items are out.
Poly outer crossmember bushings ?
Solid trans mount ?
Drive shaft upgrade if not already ?
Maybe not much of an inspection but minor upgrades while major components are out of the way already
 

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Upgrade the Torque converter!
 

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Add the crack pipe cooling mod.

Look at the rear seals.

O2 sensors are much easier to replace with the exhaust off, lol.

Check for rust/pitting on the head surface, at the rear water holes.
Aluminum rust is grey, and will gouge out with a fingernail.
If it's there, clean it all up with a wire brush, Carefully, and fill any holes with RTV before you put the gasket back on.
I had pitting on Lazarus ~1/8" deep, and it's been well maintained.

Replace the Water pump, if you've never done it, get the closed vane design.
PI intake is a winner!

Check the bearings and the slipring on the alternator; a rebuild kit is ~$30 and takes ~20 minutes to do.
You can see the slipring by removing the regulator from the alternator.
The bearings seem to go at about 200k miles...

How's your steering? :)
The rack is only easy with the Engine out, lol.

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks for all the help guys. Gonna have all that checked out. The guys are suggesting the driveshaft to be re-balanced since that could be a reason for the wear on the seals. I don't completely buy it but I also know the two-piece shaft is crap, so anyone got leads on a Mark VIII single piece shaft that I can have shipped to me ASAP?

Also, yes, upstream O2s are being replaced.
 

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Get rid of the stock one; it will waste everything, lol.

I bought 3 from PST in aluminum.

Only the 93 M8 one is one piece.

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Get rid of the stock one; it will waste everything, lol.

I bought 3 from PST in aluminum.

Only the 93 M8 one is one piece.

:grin2:
What? Only the 93? I thought ALL the Marks had a single shaft instead of our two shafts cobbled together.
 

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The 93 shaft was the only one that was one-piece. The 94-98 Marks had an aluminum shaft, but it was 2 pieces bonded together with rubber. My solution for cheap one piece aluminum driveshafts is pull one out of a van or truck at the junkyard and have it shortened. Last time I had one done, it cost me $50 for the driveshaft from the junkyard, and $200 to have it shortened.
 

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I'd call PST; we did a group buy there several years ago, and they gave me the GP price each time I bought after that. :)

That's customer service. :)

I'm sure they Can't do that now, but they make a great product.


Club Discounts ARE for paying Club Members only, remember. :)


EDIT: They're $400 for an aluminum 3.5"; seems like the 4.5" shaft rubs in one place...
 

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Get the 3.5" DS, it's more than adequate.

I also Highly recommend a Marauder converter. You can probably get one from Ford. Shop around or others here can point you in the right direction. I don't have time right now to see where they're currently available from.
 

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Along with the Marauder converter, you will need the matching flexplate.

Al
 

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Along with the Marauder converter, you will need the matching flexplate.

Al
I forgot about that. Thanks Al. Yea, they can be had for about $35 as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not doing the converter since my current stock one is doing just fine. Don't really have time to shop around. I ran to the dealer last night and picked up all the trans seals and gaskets that I needed and the rear main seal. Everything is OEM, no aftermarket seals lol.
 

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Too bad you're not doing the converter. At least do the J-mod and upgrade the accumulators and valve body.
 

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Does the Marauder converter really make a difference over stock? Snappier acceleration from a stoplight? Or does the difference just show up on a timeslip?

On paper it should help, but I have heard mixed reviews regarding how noticeable it actually is. My car is pretty snappy from the hit as it is.

Al
 

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while you have them out it will make it easy to replace the u joints at the same time as well as the rear seals on the rear end. it will make it easier than trying to fix them after you put back the engine. also replacing the o2 sensors as well as the most common sensors that go bad. I would replace the iac tmp maf as well as the temp sensors. just to get them out of the way. if they seemed ok before they might laugh when you try to run it on a daily. also do a tune up as well plus check the compression as well to just make sure it is ok. better out than in because it is easy to fix the blow by when it is out than in the bay. don't forget to double check the starter before reinstall the power train
 
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