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Discussion Starter #1
So upon taking my heads off, to replace the headgaskets. I saw that on the passengers side head there were 3 large cracks in the head. Long story short, I don't want to replace the heads, and I really don't want to throw the car out, cause the body is in incredible condition. So my only option is a motor swap.

So what should I swap in?

A. 3.8/4.2
B. 302
C. 351
D. 460
E. another suggestion?
 

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I say go for a splitport 3.8. That would be the easiest swap, and would get you a more powerful and more reliable motor without too much work, and without killing your gas mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the car was never really a daily driver, and im not really looking into making it one. So I think I will go with a 351.
 

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351!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sounds like a nice number, at least to me...I don't know why though..
 

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If you are going to step up---take a big step and find a 94-96 351 block(roller cam) and get a stroker kit for it --the 392 is a cheap option since it can use stock 351 rods and stock 302 pistons---all you need is a crankshaft and a balance job a decent set of heads and you are making 400+ HP and near 450 torque for the price of a normal overhaul -------and haul is what you will be doing afterwards...................Dan
 

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If you are going to step up---take a big step and find a 94-96 351 block(roller cam) and get a stroker kit for it --the 392 is a cheap option since it can use stock 351 rods and stock 302 pistons---all you need is a crankshaft and a balance job a decent set of heads and you are making 400+ HP and near 450 torque for the price of a normal overhaul -------and haul is what you will be doing afterwards...................Dan

I've got to stop rading post like this. Just when I think I'm going to build a 347 stroker I see this and the gears start turning more.:D
 

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I've got to stop rading post like this. Just when I think I'm going to build a 347 stroker I see this and the gears start turning more.:D
I haven't got all the bugs worked out of mine yet, but I can tell you that a 393 in an MN12 makes for one insanely fun car. If you are going to build a stroker, forget the 347, the 393 is the way to go! There are a few fitment issues to take care of, but I think you could build a 393 for cheaper than a 347.
 

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I know you have to notch the front cross member for the oil pan to clear and about the steering shaft issue at the header. Is there anything else?
 

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PostSlut
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I know you have to notch the front cross member for the oil pan to clear and about the steering shaft issue at the header. Is there anything else?
sure....what do you intend the car to be? street car, track car, both?
does it need to pass emissions?
 

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If you want to keep fuel injection, you need a raised fiberglass hood and you need to notch the cowl panel some to clear the upper intake. I think that's about it. I ran into a few more snags because I also moved the motor back an inch, but in the stock position, you shouldn't have those problems. It really wasn't bad at all getting it in place. I used the stock 5.0 accessories and brackets, and if no one told you what it was, you would probably think you were looking at a mildly done up 5.0.
 

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That just reminded me, quick question for you. With that rad, do you have any problem with your car not getting up to temp? My car has yet to run above 160 cause the rad cools it faster than the motor heats it up. I know you have the electric water pump, so you can control it better, but before you put that on was it too much rad for the setup? It's not really a bad thing, better to be too cold than too hot, but I just figured I would ask.
 

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PostSlut
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That just reminded me, quick question for you. With that rad, do you have any problem with your car not getting up to temp? My car has yet to run above 160 cause the rad cools it faster than the motor heats it up. I know you have the electric water pump, so you can control it better, but before you put that on was it too much rad for the setup? It's not really a bad thing, better to be too cold than too hot, but I just figured I would ask.
before the electric water pump, it would stay around 190 degrees or so(with a 180 stat)......when racing it balls to the wall, it would get to around 210.

but now, like you said, I can regualte it where ever I want :)
 

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I've got a 190 t-stat. I just got the car running, and it has been pretty cold here, and I haven't really taken the car out and beat on it yet, so we'll see what happens, especially in the summer. But just sitting there idling or normal driving, it won't get above 160.
 
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