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Discussion Starter #1
So my front tires are wore on the outer edge and I notice when I turn slowly i here a clunk. Anyway I jacked up each tire in the front and moved the tire up and down and side to side. The tires dont really move up and down but they do move side to side. The passenger side quite a bit and the drivers side theres a little play. Is it safe to drive? Im guessing its the outer tie rod should I replace anything else while doing the outer tie rod?
 

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You need to look closer and see where the movement is. Inner or outer tie rod? Wheel bearing?
 

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Does the car pull to one side when braking hard at low speeds? I am trying to remember if I ever replaced a tie rod on an MN12. I think the ball joints go bad first.

My money is on ball joints, probably the lower ones. Depending on the mileage, it might be time to do the whole thing - upper & lower control arms. And while the lowers are off, that is a good time to replace the struts, if they need it.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I thought to check for play in ball joints you grab the tire from top and bottom and tried to push and pull and seeif theres movement. There was hardly any.
 

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Left and right is generally tie rods, up and down would be control arms and bearings. As old as these cars the best bet is to replace tie rods, UCAs and LCAs. I am not willing to risk my life again on questionable components, hopefully you value your life as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im trying to get the inner tie rod off, I rented the tool from oreilly but the socket thats supposed to fit it seems like its a tad too small it doesnt grab it just slips off. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used a big pipe wrench and got it off, I cant find the torque specs anywhere for the inner tie rod. The torque specs that came with it is for the the 1 3/16 socket or for the 1 5/16 socket im using the 1 7/16 socket but it doesnt show specs for that size socket.
 

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I used a big pipe wrench and got it off, I cant find the torque specs anywhere for the inner tie rod. The torque specs that came with it is for the the 1 3/16 socket or for the 1 5/16 socket im using the 1 7/16 socket but it doesnt show specs for that size socket.
Blue lock tite or the rivet; tighten it appropriately for the 1 5/16 if rivet; 1 3/16 if lock tite (LT tends to lubricate the threads, reducing the applied torque for the effective torque.)

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally getting to the drivers side and I cant get the outer tie rod to break loose, I used a crap load of pb blaster and no dice. I have a propane torch. If I have to cut it do I just install the new outer tie rod with the same amount of turns as the passenger side? One more thing since my front tires are worn unevenly I was going to put those in the rear. I was getting ready to take off the passenger rear tire and noticed the tread on the inside of the tire looked good then the tread is gradually more worn to the outside. I looked up at the rear shock and where the stem mounts at the top its wore down to almost nothing. Is there something I should look at in the rear that would cause that?
 

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Finally getting to the drivers side and I cant get the outer tie rod to break loose, I used a crap load of pb blaster and no dice. I have a propane torch. If I have to cut it do I just install the new outer tie rod with the same amount of turns as the passenger side? One more thing since my front tires are worn unevenly I was going to put those in the rear. I was getting ready to take off the passenger rear tire and noticed the tread on the inside of the tire looked good then the tread is gradually more worn to the outside. I looked up at the rear shock and where the stem mounts at the top its wore down to almost nothing. Is there something I should look at in the rear that would cause that?
Even if you count the turns, you should still get an alignment.
Our cars have the rear upper control arm to frame bushing which controls camber. It's an eccentric that has to spin. If you've ever replaced that bushing, and got the wrong, cheap part, it isn't properly adjustable. They're not hard to do, just putzy. You have to jack up the rear lower control arm, an 18mm and 15mm socket, unbolt the bolt through the upper bushing, remove the arm, use a hammer drill to squish it so you can get it out, and get a new one pressed in. Mark the location of the old one, and then get it in for alignment. Make sure the shop knows it needs rear alignment too. If they tell you it doesn't, there is a guide in the tech articles that shows how it's done. As you're tightening it up, you'll see your rear brake going through the camber motions, so you can explain it to them too. Good shops know how to do it, cheap ones don't.
 
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