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MaleWhore
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2,640 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
well since an MMX is about $400...i talked to a guy around here and he can balance my drive shaft for about $100...i dont have any serious HP so i was thinking an aluminum DS wouldnt realy be noticable compared to a steel one....whats the ideas on this...any comments or suggestions...
 

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It really isn't so much HP that gets you in trouble, it is how high your RPM's will be and for how long. If you are running a high final gear then doing a driveshaft should be on your list.

-J
 

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MaleWhore
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2,640 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
well im getting a new 4r70w...and a 3.73 pumpkin...now i dont have that much cash to buy a mmx...so i thought i would rebalance it...anyone know if it will still vibrate or cause anything
 

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Chapter Director Coordinator
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6,253 Posts
over 80mph w/ 3.73s you might experience vibration.. and over 90 you can almost bet your @$$ you will

the m8 alum 1 piece DS raises the bar a little.. but not a lot..
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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4,794 Posts
have my mark shaft put on new joints and balance at 4800rpm. the balancing cost me about 60 skinny bones. still haven't go on my car yet.
 

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MaleWhore
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Discussion Starter #6
so what everybody is saying is save the cash and buy a aluminum one...
 

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Chapter Director Coordinator
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no.. save your cash and buy a metal matrix shaft...
 

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I recently had to build a custom drive shaft. We took an F350 driveshaft and shortened it down to fit my Cat.

It's heavier than my stock shaft - but because it's ballanced properly, there is NO vibration with 4.30 gears all the way up to the governer speed of 175kph. This was tested while the car was on jackstands in a garage, you couldn't feel anything inside the car.

An aluminum shaft is nice for weight savings, but there's nothing wrong with a steel shaft for high rpm applications IF it's ballanced properly.
 

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The Parts Guy
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7,359 Posts
I guess I'm going against the norm here, but take this info for what it's worth to you. On my daily driver splitport 94 LX with the FRPP centersection, I didn't feel like laying out the $$$ for a MMX driveshaft. When I first started driving the car, it had a pretty bad vibration above 60 MPH. So, I had a stock driveshaft balanced (and installed new U-Joints) by a very reputable driveshaft shop near me and I installed that in the car. What a difference! The car no longer has a vibration up to 115 - 120 or so (about the fastest I've had this car). Balancing the driveshaft and installing the new U-joints only cost me $70, too.

-Rod
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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2,261 Posts
I'm taking my car to a Drive Line (Chain Shop) to have the U-Joints and Shaft checked. After reading Rod's experience, I'll go balancing and New U-Joints (if needed.).

I'm getting an odd motion to the car at speed or bad weather. It feels like the back end is going in a circular motion same direction as the drive shaft. I have new shocks all the way around (BilSteins in front and OEMs in rear) It feels like the 67 Impala fast back I had in High School with a bent driveshaft.

Question, if the driveshaft is bent, what would you guys replace it with? Mk VIII shaft if I can find one? MMX (My 6 isn't making that kind of power, but maybe after putting on Split port intakes and heads)? Or just a junkyard special that fits?
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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The shop is asking for suggestions on how to drop the drive shaft to replace the U-Joints without futzing with the gas tank. Any HELP???
 

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If they want to drop the rear differential they might be able to do it that way. Depends on the angle needed to pull it out all the way. I know that when I dropped the transmission, I just lowered the differential a little and slid the drive shaft back enough to pull the transmission. Not sure if you can get it all the way out without removing the rear diff though.

-J
 

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3,178 Posts
You'll have to drop the tank to get the shaft out - you can drop the IRS pumpkin for tranny swaps, etc... but to totally remove the shaft either the gas tank or the tranny have to be removed. I've replaced my u-joints already, so I know the feeling.
 

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Silver,

Did you have to cap off the tail housing to keep it from leaking. I have read that if you pull that shaft out it is possible to damage the seal there. I have found a shop that can to the work, just very leary of fcausing a problem tring to fix another.

House
 

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Is there a special cap(part #) that needs to be used?
 

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Any plastic cap that will fit into the seal snugly will work, I'm in the military, and all the electronics for our launchers came with plastic caps over the electrical plugs. I found one that works perfect, and just held on to it.
 

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Can't say that I have worked with any launchers lately. Does anyone else know of anything I can use to keep fluid from going everywhere or would this be a good time to change the fluid and doa possible J-Mod?
 

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Might want to replace the seal anyway if its the original... $8 well spent IMO.
 
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