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How do you flush the power steering fluid? I have searched but can't find instructions on how to do so.
Turkey baster or syphon the old out, then add new.

The other way is to disable the ignition (fuel pump fuse), have someone crank the car with the wheels off the ground while they turn the wheel from end to end. Disconnect the return line to the PS tank, extend it into a bucket. Do not allow it go go dry. Add about 2-3 quarts of fluid, or until its clean red.
 

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I replaced the lower ball joints in my driveway. Just "rented" a press from O'Reilly's, read the instructions, and pressed the old ones out then the new ones in. cost me whatever the Ball Joints themselves cost (can't remember now)

I had the same problem you described; pulling to the right during light, easy braking. The ball joints solved the problem for me though. LOL Of course this was after I replaced both front calipers, rotors, and brake lines.
 

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How about rear diff.?
I've done it just with the car on the ground.

First remove the square drain plug with a 3/8" square (bare ratchet or extension). This is a good habit just in case the plug is stuck and you can't refill your diff!

Take off the two big nuts holding the bracket to the subframe (you may need a helper box wrench on the bolts above to keep them from turning). You could probably remove the bracket to cover bolts too, but mine looked very rusted.

Then remove about 10 bolts holding the cover to the pumpkin. Some are hard to get to, but doable. Make sure a pan is under your diff, and get ready for a stinky mess to drain.

Clean all gasket material from the cover and differential. Use plastic scrapers, do not scratch the surfaces.

Optional. get brake cleaner and clean out the metal parts on the diff. Try not to get it on the rubber seals too much. Let it dry for 20 min. Make sure there is no residue.

Get permatex black RTV and make a good zigzag pattern about 1/4" wide that covers all the boltholes on the cover. Follow the directions on the package.

Put the cover back with the wet RTV, finger tighten. Wait an hour or so, toruqe to 25 or 30 ft/lbs (check manual). I like to wait a few hours to let it set before the fluid goes in. Shops would wait a few minutes.

Refill with 80W90 gear fluid only. I like Valvolvine SynBlend (partial synthetic). You can use any brand, but why not something a bit better if you are saving all this money. If you have a limited slip you must add something called FRICTION MODIFIER! from a small bottle. Fill until your finger can feel it thru the hole. I think its about 1.5 qts. Put back the plug.

You just saved $100!

The other way is like what they do in jiffy lube, get a fluid transfer pump at harbor freight and suction it thru the hole, then shoot new stuff back. Of course you will be leaving some old fluid in there, and the gaskets are usually leaking after a decade.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I replaced the lower ball joints in my driveway. Just "rented" a press from O'Reilly's, read the instructions, and pressed the old ones out then the new ones in. cost me whatever the Ball Joints themselves cost (can't remember now)

I had the same problem you described; pulling to the right during light, easy braking. The ball joints solved the problem for me though. LOL Of course this was after I replaced both front calipers, rotors, and brake lines.
After the alignment the pulling seems to have stopped, but I think I might just be used to the pulling, because when I brake I automatically turn the the left a little. I would have done it in my drive way, but neighborhood ordinances don't allow me to. People get yelled at when changing their oil in their garage with the garage door open. Plus I have never done anything like this and didn't want to screw anything up. But now I want to because I don't have much money, and need to pay for school, and just lost my part time job (because they couldn't give me hours I wanted).
 

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Ah! Constant Problems. Oh well, 12 year old car, what can you expect. I'll keep that in mind. Is there any way to straighten out the wheels myself. It drives straight, but the steering wheel itself is just off looking. I have to hold it like I'm gong left, but don't have to turn, that's just it's neutral position.
Are you sure your rack isn't skipping teeth?

Unless you have replaced tie rod ends, or had a hack align your car, it should line up.

Loose steering is bad; Find out where the play is, and if it's in the rack replace it asap.

Get the car off the ground on some jack stands, and check it out carefully.

If where the steering wheel is pointed while driving in a straight line changes from day to day, either the rack is bad or one of the u-joints in the steering is bad.

Losing steering at speed is one of the worst things I can think of happening while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The steering is great now after the alignment. I thought before it was driving fairly straight, but after the trip to KC in it, it clearly wasn't driving straight. So it's all fine now. I don't think the rack is skipping teeth because the steering wheel is always in the same spot when going straight (almost straight looking, but a tiny bit to the left). I think once I get the power steering fluid done it will drive great.
 

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i hate to bust your bubble but him pressing the ball joint out of the new arms was stupid ive done a ton of work on tbirds and will only replace the whole control arm to many other parts that go bad on the control

just my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #30
What parts would go bad? Just the bushings? I'm on a tight budget, and I know in the long run it would be cheaper to get them both done at the same time, but I'm out of a job at the time so I can only afford what really needs to be done.
 

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i hate to bust your bubble but him pressing the ball joint out of the new arms was stupid ive done a ton of work on tbirds and will only replace the whole control arm to many other parts that go bad on the control

just my 2 cents
Please elaborate.... what was so stupid about just replacing the part that needed replacing?
 

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i hate to bust your bubble but him pressing the ball joint out of the new arms was stupid ive done a ton of work on tbirds and will only replace the whole control arm to many other parts that go bad on the control

just my 2 cents
Three reasons this is correct:

After over a decade, the new LCA gives you a brand new ball joint with peace of mind, but you replaced that anyway. The cost of labor at a shop is the same or more than a new arm.

If your strut rod bushings had any wear then the LCA frame bushings are probably crushed and destroyed. They were under constant stress as the arm was pushing toward the rear as you drive. The lower arm will flop around like a pendulum when it is supposed to have a tight bushing. Bushings act as mini shock absorbers, they limit movement of the suspension somewhat. That is why they must be tightened with the wheels on the ground.

In addition to that, the rubber bushings where the strut bolts go in on mine are trashed from removing very stuck bolts, so replacing the arm makes sense.

If you don't have good bushings, your ride quality will suffer. The car isn't going to fall apart but it loses that new car handling feeling.
 

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What tbirdguy said, it's just stupid I'll elabrote new ball joint 36.99 the complete control arm like 55-60 bucks and it can be done with hand tools a ball joint press is not required so u can do it yourself instead of paying 300 plus dollars but hey what do I know
 

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Discussion Starter #34
When I took mine in, the mechanic was planning on doing the whole arm, which he said was supposed to be $450, but since he's family he was going to do it for $350, but all I needed was the ball joint so he just pressed out the old ones and put new ones in for $270, then $60 for alignment. $330 total. thats $80 cheaper (not including alignment) or if he weren't to give me that discount it would have been difference of $180. and I'm now unemployed and don't want to pay for unnecessary parts. If it aint broke, don't fix it. I would love to just get everything fixed, but it's not bad enough to need replacing. I know you have more experience but don't be so inconsiderate by calling my mechanics and my decision stupid. I appreciate your input, but you don't have to be rude about it.
 

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I’m not sure he meant to be as presumptuous as to call your mechanics “stupid” but the cost is surely excessive as labor cant be more than 1 hour of shop time per side and we know that the ball joints are about $70 for a pair. We (the florida crowd) have routinely rebuilt front ends in their entirety in less than 3 hours.

Some of the answers in this thread were not ‘padded’ as much as your mechanics wallet.
 
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