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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading through the posts looking for a ball joint for an lowered car, I didn’t see anything. Has anyone had luck with high angle ball joint in these applications?

Tnx
 

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Are you talking about LCA ball joints, UCA ball joints, or both?

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You might ask over on baggedbirds, they may have some input.

My tbird is dropped 2", much more that that and you'll drag on everything.

I've never heard of anyone swapping balljoints for lowering here.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looking for both top and bottom. I want to restore the factory ball joint angle to reduce stress on the joint and early wear.
 

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You might ask over on baggedbirds, they may have some input.

My tbird is dropped 2", much more that that and you'll drag on everything.

I've never heard of anyone swapping balljoints for lowering here.
Baggedbirds .. LOL .. maybe 15 years ago. That site has been down for a LONG time, and I haven't talked to Scott since around 2006 - 2007 :cry::cry::cry::cry:

No such thing exist for these applications
x2 .. no such thing exists for these applications. I have seen angled ball joints for lowered truck applications .. but for a 2 inch drop on a Thunderbird they are not going to help anything for longevity. ;);););)
 

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Also, dropping more than 2" is going to necessitate a skid plate, lol.

The Tbird has the Voightland Springs from Tokico, or maybe they're theirs, but I already rub pipes on speed bumps, and the tips have dragged coming into my driveway. One is flattened at the bottom.

It also makes it hard to get a jack under.
 

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Also, dropping more than 2" is going to necessitate a skid plate, lol.

The Tbird has the Voightland Springs from Tokico, or maybe they're theirs, but I already rub pipes on speed bumps, and the tips have dragged coming into my driveway. One is flattened at the bottom.

It also makes it hard to get a jack under.
No need for skid plates .. it might rub over speed bumps near the frame the transmission brace is connected to .. but it isn't going to drag anything critical. Trust me, my Tbird was lowered about 8 inches or more with air suspension. ;);););)

You need to drive up on blocks before you put the jack under .. you should see how I get my buddies GT350R cobra into the driveway .. I have a series of ramps just to get it up the driveway without dragging the whole front end splitter .. and then I have to drive it on blocks before I get a jack under. So much lower than a 2" lowered Tbird would be. :cool::cool::cool::cool:
 

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At the front K-member, I have about 4.5" clearance with the Tokico and springs; the right side pipe has about 4" at the diff where it comes thru.

If I'd lowered it 8", I'd have ~2" space under the tires, lol.

Lazarus is the opposite; it has the Konis with the Sport springs, and it probably has a good 5-6" everywhere that's low, and 8" to the floor pans. I need to cut those springs, like Earl did. His looked good.

IDK about the red car; it has stock V8 springs, and some trashed Gabriels on it right now, but with the wheels stands it's on, it has 2" of clearance. :)
I have some stock sport shocks to go on it this spring, when I get it finished.

SO, Dan, you have a bagged bird with Switches? :devilish:
Are there 16? :)

Are we talking:
"16 switches for the (censored) in my hood, 17 shells so I make it understood..."
or:
"rollin' in my '4 with 16 switches
And got sounds for the bitches, clockin' all the riches
Got the hollow points for the snitches"
:ROFLMAO: Props to Dre...

I can just see one of these doing the bounce... :)
 

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SO, Dan, you have a bagged bird with Switches? :devilish:
Are there 16? :)

Are we talking:
"16 switches for the (censored) in my hood, 17 shells so I make it understood..."
or:
"rollin' in my '4 with 16 switches
And got sounds for the bitches, clockin' all the riches
Got the hollow points for the snitches"
:ROFLMAO: Props to Dre...

I can just see one of these doing the bounce... :)
I had 4 switches for each individual size in 2000. Yeah you can buy a switchbox with 16 switches, if I wanted " pancake, front back, and side to side" Yes I used to listen to Dr Dre in 1992. :cool::cool:
 

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are you all lowered with the stock spindles? what kind of camber are you at and with bigger rims did it affect your turning radius?
 

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are you all lowered with the stock spindles? what kind of camber are you at and with bigger rims did it affect your turning radius?
What other spindles are there? Typical "good" camber is around -1.0 degrees up front. Lowering the car won't effect turning radius unless your wheel/tire choice is stuffing the tire into the fender.
 

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The Parts Guy
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And if we're talking about alignment specs, this is what I would suggest:

Front:
Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's an autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Rear:
Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~ -0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15 I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero with the stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow an increase in toe when under power.
Cross Camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total Toe: 0-0.3


These settings have worked well for me as an all-purpose alignment (drag racing, corner carving, and highway cruising) on this chassis without any real adverse effects on tire wear. If the intended use was autocross-type events only, drag racing only, etc., I'd set things a bit differently. These are just my recommendations.
 

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Trust me, my Tbird was lowered about 8 inches or more
But this forum deals with Ford T-Birds, not the originally off road only version you must have. I don't think mine would drop 8" if I took the springs out. :D
 

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CP, as I recall you did the spring cut lowering method, with one turn off the front, and 5/8 of a turn off the rear; am I remembering right?

I was thinking that you and Earl both did that mod, and it looked really good.
 
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Too stiff?

I'm seriously considering it for Lazarus; but it's incredibly stiff with the Poly everywhere.
 

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CP, as I recall you did the spring cut lowering method, with one turn off the front, and 5/8 of a turn off the rear; am I remembering right?

I was thinking that you and Earl both did that mod, and it looked really good.
I cut (used a cut-off wheel, not torch) exactly 1 coil off the front at the bottom end and smoothed the end. I cut 5/8 off the rear coils as well (which is half way between 1/2 and 3/4 coil) Good Memory you have. I started with just 1/2 coil on front, then cut a second 1/2 and did the 5/8 in rear the same day. That was in September 2008. Time flies. I did it at same time as I put new Tokico Blues all the way around and new UCAs on my purple '92 Sport. Still have the car, but darn clearcoat is messin' up on top parts roof, hood, trunk (I've considered matt black wrap on hood & roof & trunk?) Car sits "level" too, but about 2 or 2.25 " lower as I recall from notes. I bought a second set of Sport springs from a fellow and cut them the same to use in my '95, but it rode so well, I never got that far, so they just sit in a corner.
37451
 
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