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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just installed my new powermaster alternator. 206 amps! i needed for my audio system .....plus my stock was on the fritz anyway. anyways... i also put in a new 4 gu alternator wire. everything was installed right. checked and triple checked. all readings are also good. but my batt light goes on now and flickers. when i give it gas it goes away. when i let off or brake it comes back? WTF!?:confused:
 

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Do you have under drive pullies?

If so, that is your problem.
 

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my non s sc the alternator gauge fluctutates when I step on the gas or when it drops idle ... its that stupid battery you have in there - lol
 

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With my 97 LX sport with the under-drive pullies, the alt dips, and so does the supplied voltage to the car, so power dips to everything, until you step on the gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
my non s sc the alternator gauge fluctutates when I step on the gas or when it drops idle ... its that stupid battery you have in there - lol
what stupid battery you moron. your thinking of the wrong car dingy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With my 97 LX sport with the under-drive pullies, the alt dips, and so does the supplied voltage to the car, so power dips to everything, until you step on the gas.

no underdrive pullies here. my guess would have to be the pulley i took off the stock alternator has a bigger diameter and the new one had a smaller diameter. i had to use the stock alternator pulley b/c it was wider to accomodate the sc belt. or it could be #2. the power fuse is 175amp. i need to get 200 amp. b/c the new laternator is 210 amp vs. 110 stock. or #3....BOTH LOL
 

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did you make sure the battery was fulling charged before hooking everything back up? If the battery isnt fully charged or has a cracked or potentially dead cell, it will cause the alternator to work harder and maybe even cause it to **** itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
please read first post. yes...... everything is 110% good. connection, readings and all
 

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please read first post. yes...... everything is 110% good. connection, readings and all
there was no mention of you saying you ensured that the battery WAS charged prior to alternator installation and since the battery light is coming on, i would first put the battery on a trickle charger and go from there.....but at the same time, i would consider trying another alternator, maybe a used SC one...I would NOT rule out the Powermasters alternator being the problem.
 

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battery is fully charged.
then unhook the stereo and check the system then and try a different alternator. When you put the battery on the trickle charger, did it consistantly HOLD a charge at about 13ish volts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i dont need to unhook the stereo. keeping it off is sufficient. it was tested a million times. everything is above normal. im taking an educated guess and saying its the fuse or the pulley. its the only logical thing that makes sense.
 

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i dont need to unhook the stereo. keeping it off is sufficient. it was tested a million times. everything is above normal. im taking an educated guess and saying its the fuse or the pulley. its the only logical thing that makes sense.

suit yourself. There are more variables than the fuse or pulley, but dont listen to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry bro. i just get tired of some people asking me that same questions over and over. (not just fo this post and just you) after i posted exactly what i have done. (except for the battery being charged lol) what other variables did you have in mind? everything checks out above average. all connections are OK.. readings are OK ...fully charged equipment OK... everything is off when tested..OK
 

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sorry bro. i just get tired of some people asking me that same questions over and over. (not just fo this post and just you) after i posted exactly what i have done. (except for the battery being charged lol) what other variables did you have in mind? everything checks out above average. all connections are OK.. readings are OK ...fully charged equipment OK... everything is off when tested..OK
thats fine and if you dont like the questions to your post, then dont post it. You didnt try a different alternator, i would look there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
im am certainitly not going to try a new alternator. it took 3 hours to put this one in with modifications. i still have to try the new fuse, wire, and pulley situation. powermaster says 80% that it could be the pulley. if not everything else. than a bad diode. which they will take care of.
 

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Your alternator took 3 hours.
Wow.
 

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Your alternator took 3 hours.
Wow.
Not completely out of line considering the stock upper IC tube usually needs to be removed. Plus the 200 amp alternator aren't always a direct bolt-on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not completely out of line considering the stock upper IC tube usually needs to be removed. Plus the 200 amp alternator aren't always a direct bolt-on.
thank you for defending me LOL...it took A LOT of modifying, grinding , shaving etc to make it fit right. not to mention i had to take apart the whole right side of the engine bay...lol:mad:
 
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