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ive been considering on relocating my battery to the truck and install a battery kill switch on the bumper for track purposes. I researched some previous threads and didn't find anything related, so hear i go..

with installing a battery in the trunk, what other than transfering weight to the back and creating more space in the engine bay does it benefit?

And for a drag car what rules and regulations do track officials look for? just a secure battery. becuase if relocating it serves no purpose than why even mess with it...

and also in one of the research threads i saw a comment on not purchasing summit relocation boxes due to the incompatible parts for our cats/birds...is this true????

any suggestions, thanks
 

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The Parts Guy
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4.3Lcougar said:
with installing a battery in the trunk, what other than transfering weight to the back and creating more space in the engine bay does it benefit?
Those are the two main benefits....more space in the engine bay and transferring weight to the rear.

4.3Lcougar said:
And for a drag car what rules and regulations do track officials look for? just a secure battery. becuase if relocating it serves no purpose than why even mess with it...
You need an external kill switch, and the battery either needs to be in a sealed battery box or you'll need to build a rear firewall/package shelf.





This is straight off the NHRA website:

"I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?"

"Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050"


Here are some pictures of my setup:

the battery:


while driving on the street:


when at the track:


aluminum rear firewall:



-Rod
 

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Hey rod do you have any pics of how you have that running through the tail light?

I have my battery in the trunk and forgot all about a kill switch.
 

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The Parts Guy
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97qwikcat said:
Hey rod do you have any pics of how you have that running through the tail light?
Sure. Like this?



The rod passes through the taillight and the sheetmetal behind it. When I'm not at the track, I run a taillight without a hole in it and the switch as shown in the second picture above.

-Rod
 

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PostSlut
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I myself have relocated the battery to the trunk, but when this battery dies, I'm putting a new one back up front.
Why?
I'm looking to save weight, and by relocating the battery to the trunk actually added weight for me.
The power cables weigh around 22 lbs more.

Here is the battery I'm going to go with...link

This battery only weighs 15 lbs.
 

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The Parts Guy
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True. My main reason for moving the battery to the trunk was due to the fact that I needed the room under the hood for a bunch of engine related electronics.

Even though it may have added a little weight to the car overall, at least the weight was transferred from the front of the car to the rear. I do know that the weight gain was negligible, as the stock battery was much heavier than the Optima.

I've heard good things about those Odyssey batteries. I think you'll like it.

-Rod
 

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racecougar said:
True. My main reason for moving the battery to the trunk was due to the fact that I needed the room under the hood for a bunch of engine related electronics.

Even though it may have added a little weight to the car overall, at least the weight was transferred from the front of the car to the rear. I do know that the weight gain was negligible, as the stock battery was much heavier than the Optima.

I've heard good things about those Odyssey batteries. I think you'll like it.

-Rod
yeah, I have all the room in the world under my hood.



And thats all I've heard as well, good things about them.
I don't know if you've seen the aluminum mount odyssey makes for the pc680, but its nice.
 

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The Parts Guy
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Your engine is so tiny. :D

_95badbird said:
I don't know if you've seen the aluminum mount odyssey makes for the pc680, but its nice.
Yes, and it is.

-Rod
 

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I think you'd save more weight overall by going to one of those 12v wheelchair batteries under the hood than by moving the battery to the trunk, and save a lot of trouble, too.
 

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Why did you relocate the battery to the left side of the car? I have been racing since the 60's and yours is the first I have seen on the left. The premise is to put the extra weight over the right side to work with the torque of the engine and improve traction. Just a thought.
 

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The Parts Guy
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SVT BIRD said:
Why did you relocate the battery to the left side of the car? I have been racing since the 60's and yours is the first I have seen on the left. The premise is to put the extra weight over the right side to work with the torque of the engine and improve traction. Just a thought.
Because that is where I wanted to put it. :D

Actually, there is a reason behind it. In a straight axle car, the right rear tire lifts as the right rear corner of the body dives. However, in a IRS equipped car neither rear tire lifts, but the right rear corner of the body still dives. This shifts weight from the left of the car to the right, loading the right rear tire better than the left rear tire. With the rear suspension setup I'm running, the weight shift is negligible, but still present. I put the battery on the left side of the trunk to counteract that a bit.

But mainly, it's just because that is where I wanted to put it.

-Rod
 

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_95badbird said:
Here is the battery I'm going to go with...link

This battery only weighs 15 lbs.
Would that battery have enough cold cranking amps for a daily driver in NY where the temperatures hit single didgets? I'd love to put that under the hood but I didn't see any cca ratings on that link. I don't own a garage to keep the car in.
 

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Yeah Rod was right about that cut-off switch but they still let me race I think because the company I work for help's sponsor them. Next time if I make it this year I need to have the kill switch or put it up front.
 

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Battery said:
Would that battery have enough cold cranking amps for a daily driver in NY where the temperatures hit single didgets? I'd love to put that under the hood but I didn't see any cca ratings on that link. I don't own a garage to keep the car in.
Very doubtful.
 

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Battery said:
Would that battery have enough cold cranking amps for a daily driver in NY where the temperatures hit single didgets? I'd love to put that under the hood but I didn't see any cca ratings on that link. I don't own a garage to keep the car in.
680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
525 cranking amps for 20 seconds

most batteries I see(at vatozone, walmart), have around the same CCA's.

edit:I don't know what temperature they rate that at, but its usually at 32* Fahrenheit
 

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Battery relocate

~~Hello

I placed mine in the right side fire wall. Since I don't have any Heating Or Cooling devises. I placed in into the fire wall.
with my rules it must be under the hood. A hole was cut, Box was constructed & a tie down was made.

Remember I completely rewired my car. Using a Dura Spark II ing.

Non electric fuel pump.

This is a full Race track Only car. Circle track, 1/2 mile oval Street Stock.

Paul
 

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_95badbird said:
680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
525 cranking amps for 20 seconds

most batteries I see(at vatozone, walmart), have around the same CCA's.

edit:I don't know what temperature they rate that at, but its usually at 32* Fahrenheit
My car started right up with 440 cca for 2 days before i replaced it. That was in 60*-70* though.
 

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Rod, in this picture it looks like you not only have added the rod that goes through the tail light (very ingenious by the way) but also like you've changed the handle on the switch itself. Exactly how many parts are different between the street setup and the track setup? you mentioned you use a different tail light when at the track.

I'd like to go with a set up similar to yours just for kicks and giggles. MoKan has yet to even raise my hood, let alone do a tech inspection. Most they ever asked for was proof of insurance when I entered the Bracket races one Sat. (LOL well I suppose I should say the most they ALWAYS ask for is the registration fee..)
 

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The Parts Guy
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Traveler said:
Rod, in this picture it looks like you not only have added the rod that goes through the tail light (very ingenious by the way) but also like you've changed the handle on the switch itself. Exactly how many parts are different between the street setup and the track setup? you mentioned you use a different tail light when at the track.
That is correct. When I go to the track, I remove the knob that came with the switch and the passenger taillight, and I install the lever and rod assembly that I made along with the tallight with the hole in it. All in all, the swap takes about five minutes.

-Rod
 
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