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Discussion Starter #1
so searching for pictures turned up jack since well the posts are like 3 years old and all the pics are gone haha.

basically we have a battery box and cables lying around so i might as well use it and have a few basic stupid questions.

1. The ground wires that already go to the batt negative should i just ground those to the frame in the front of the car and then ground the new cable from the battery in the trunk to the trunk floor?

2. for the shut off switch,should i install it on the power or ground side?

I also need some pics of how you guys have mounted the cutoff switch. I realize that ill have to get a spare tailight to put a bar through going to the switch to run at the track and i'd like to see how it looks completed (i know racecougar and 95badbird have this done so if you guys see this could you post up your pics?)
 

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Clueless Poster
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whast the pole sticking out the back end for? the thingy coming off the ground wire
 

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The Parts Guy
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whast the pole sticking out the back end for? the thingy coming off the ground wire
That's not a ground wire, that is the master cutoff switch. The rod and lever assembly effectively makes it a push/pull type switch when at the track, and I just run the knob on the switch when driving on the street.
 

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Clueless Poster
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oooooh ok...because im looking at doing a supercharger to my 97 v8 and was thinking about actually i really want to move the battery out of the engine compartment and into the trunk to make it look a little bit more open plus it wouldn't hurt to make some room for the supercharger and alternator relocation
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok so i was looking around and thinking about adding an inline fuse between the cut-off and the wire running to the engine bay in case it ever shorted to ground,i'd rather have it blow a fuse than melt the wire and possibly burn up the car. Has anyone run a fuse (if so how many amps) inline with the pos. wire?
 

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PostSlut
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sorry, I don't think I have any pics of my old setup hosted anywhere, but I have since relocated the battery back up front with a light weight battery, mounted in the front under the fender.
But, mine was on the oppisite side of rod's.
And my cutoff switch was in a different spot as well....I didn't have a rod sticking out, I just had a switch mounted in the top of the rear bumper right behind the liscens plate.

If you still want pics, I can see what I can dig up.
 

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PostSlut
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I take it back....I do have a pic still hosted..

 

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The Parts Guy
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that push pull setup is pimp. I never even thought of that. That looks like the route I'll go.
Just make sure that you have it set up so that pushing the rod in opens the switch ("OFF" position = push in) to be NHRA legal.
 

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ok thanks much. One other quick question. The positive wire from the battery, how does that connect up to the engine bay? Do you wire everything seperately from the back? (fuse panel, starter, etc) or does it connect directly into the stock positive battery wire in the bay?
 

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The Parts Guy
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I started with a bare shell and wired the car from scratch, so I don't have a stock positive cable up front. I ran 2/0 gauge wire from the positive battery post to the kill switch, and then on to the relay on the starter. I used a factory 4 gauge wire from the starter relay to the power distribution box. The ground wire is also 2/0 gauge, and runs from the negative battery post to the underside of the car, where it is grounded to the frame (not subframe).


Here are two more threads covering the topic of relocating the battery to the trunk:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=43804
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=88343


And even more information, straight from the NHRA website:

"I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?"

"Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050."
 

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The Parts Guy
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I should also mention that unless you're running an approved sealed battery box, you'll need to install a rear firewall to be NHRA legal. I made my firewall and package shelf out of .040" sheet aluminum.





And this picture shows where I have the battery grounded to the framerail (circled in red).

 

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thanks for the pictures, they help alot. What I have to tackle is adapting the new positive to the engine bay positive or however. Just seems like a lot of pita work.
 

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The Parts Guy
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Just remove your factory positive cable, and run the new cable to the post on starter relay that the 4 gauge power distribution wire is attached to.
 

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PostSlut
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woohoo I was illegal!!!

But whats funny is, it passed tech every time I went to the track.
 

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PostSlut
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ha illegal with the plastic box i guess? was it at a nhra track? maybe ihra tracks or lesser have less stringent rules. but i dont know
more like my cutoff switch....it was the kind with the removable key.
and yeah, NHRA.
 
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