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I am considering relocating and i see many different kinds of boxes, like the ones on summit and on ebay, but none of them ever mention if they are NHRA Legal. i was wondering if some of you could post some pictures of your set up so i can compare to the ones im looking at buying as to the ones that you all run. And if possible where you purchased the Legal boxes. i know that a Kill switch must be installed too, so where do you guys have them?

Thanks for you help
TY
 

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I've seen batteries in trunks without boxes. This may mean it's not a requirement for NHRA tech. The kill switch definately needs to be there. Not to disconnect the battery but to kill the engine.
 

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The Parts Guy
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If you don't use a NHRA approved box, you have to install a NHRA spec rear firewall and package shelf, which is the route that I took. The NHRA rulebook outlines exactly what is necessary to pass inspection with a trunk mounted battery.
 

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Ok.. time to dig up yet another old thread...

I've read time and time again that there must be a cut off switch in the rear of the car to shut off all electrical power in an emergency.... I've seen the switches, I've seen the wires... but what/how is the switch wired? Just put it so it does the same thing as unhooking the positive battery cable? That would shut off the battery, but if the car is still running wouldn't it still run with the alternator? How is it wired so it shuts off EVERYTHING?

By the way Rod... as always I love the set up you've used.. ever thought of mass producing a kit with a switch, the rod, and switch handle adapters? LOL I just don't have the fabricating skills (or shop) you do.
 

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I dont have any switch in my t-bird trunk. Just a ground cable and a positive cable, no box either.
 

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I installed the Summit #890102 fabricated aluminum battery box, along with their G1208 (16' 1-Gage) cable kit and G1439 battery terminal disconnect switch. The switch is inside the battery box, which prevents it from being inadvertantly turned, but probably would not satisfy NHRA. However, if I understand the rules correctly, a master electrical cutoff is not required for cars running 11.00 or slower, so hopefully I'm OK.
 

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I installed the Summit #890102 fabricated aluminum battery box, along with their G1208 (16' 1-Gage) cable kit and G1439 battery terminal disconnect switch. The switch is inside the battery box, which prevents it from being inadvertantly turned, but probably would not satisfy NHRA. However, if I understand the rules correctly, a master electrical cutoff is not required for cars running 11.00 or slower, so hopefully I'm OK.
guess i need to get one installed asap!

:zwall:
 

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The Parts Guy
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Traveler,

The switch that I'm running has four posts, meaning that it's capable of controlling two seperate circuits. Some of the cheaper switches do not have this feature, and it's a feature that I'd recommend. You'll use the large posts on the switch to handle the 12V from the battery, and you can use the small posts to actually kill the engine. There are a number of ways to go about that, such as interrupting the 12V supply to the coil packs for example.


As far as the need for the switch goes, unless NHRA recently changed the rules...

"Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050."

There are a bunch of good threads on this topic here. For instance:
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=115354
 

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The Parts Guy
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By the way Rod... as always I love the set up you've used.. ever thought of mass producing a kit with a switch, the rod, and switch handle adapters? LOL I just don't have the fabricating skills (or shop) you do.
And thanks. Those parts were actually made up in a rush to get the car NHRA legal before its first trip to the track, and I never got around to cleaning them up. I could mass produce a lot of different parts for these cars...it's all just a matter of demand.
 

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Ok, thanks Rod. just for clarification... you said that the switch had 4 posts and could handle two circuits. Got that part. I'm assuming that it still has only two positions "on" and "off" and that is for both circuits. One is just a "heavy" circuit" (the one from the battery) and one is a "lighter" circuit (for power to the coil packs). I'm also assuming that the power to the coils is light, and they boost the power up in a was similar to the way old coils did. That sounds simple enough.

And if you decide to make a few of those "kits" put me down for one!
 

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The Parts Guy
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All of that is correct. I also should have mentioned that the switch that I'm running is from Taylor, but other companies make the exact same switch.
 

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ONe more question... How do the tech inspectors know that the battery box actually is "NHRA approved"?
 

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PostSlut
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they "should" know......but I wouldn't chance it either way....some techs won't think twice lookin over your car, while some won't let you run for the simplest things..
 

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The Parts Guy
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Exactly. If you don't want any hassles at tech inspection, pick up a NHRA rulebook, read it over, and keep your car legal.
 
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