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Battery relocation

1097 Views 40 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  indiana
Can I get some pics of your trunk-mounted battery setups? I'm looking for inspiration. I'm going to be moving the battery to the rear passenger corner and wanted to see how you guys have physically mounted the battery to the car (what style tray/holder) and where have you mounted any fuse/relay panels. I'm not looking for electrical advice, only mounting configurations. Thanks!!

This is my starting point:



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Are you building it with track use in mind where you have to meet NHRA rules or just as a general relocation for a street car? I did my relocation on the cheap using junkyard cables from cars with factory rear mounted batteries(Lincoln LS) and simply modified the stock battery tray. Positive runs from the battery to starter then starter to fuse box and negative is bolted to a convenient grounding bolt right by the new location. I use an AGM battery so I don’t see the need for a ventilated box or firewall and I didn’t wire up a kill switch so it’s not exactly tech legal. But I wanted a trunk mounted battery and its benefits and I got it,

Either way I see no need to have the fuse/relay panels relocated to the back unless you’re rewiring from scratch.
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when did the quality dip happen? I’m on my second red top from 2018 and it’s still strong. The prices are stupid though
I put it in the trunk to take weight out of the nose for corner carving.

If it were a drag car I wouldn't put it in the trunk, the NHRA rules are too draconian and stupid to bother following
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I quit buying them years ago. Right when they got sold off. The price started going up and the quality down.
Ditto. I used to run them in everything. They were really great batteries in the early 2000’s.
So I’ve been using the sucky ones all this time? 😆

FWIW I got my first in 2010, the first one got discharged to probably 9ish volts during the prolonged engine swap and it soldiered on for about 6 months thereafter until it went totally kaput in summer 2018. Current one has been good(knock on wood) so I might be lucky.

Honestly i’d probably have moved back to a lead/acid in a vented custom box if not for mounting the tray a little too tight into the trunk corner where the rounded edges of the Optima just barely clear the black trim piece, I just didn’t have time to reconfigure all that. You guys may have lit a fire under my butt to make that a new project.
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This is how I did the bulkhead passthrough - note this won’t work on 89-95s with ABS as those use this hole for wiring. Though the“grommet” in this case is a modified abs harness boot, the center is a cut down hockey puck with the cable fed through




This is where the cable grounds


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Nah it’s pretty much right behind the battery, the solenoid on the other side of the sheetmetal is the gas cap popper opener. The cable is only about a foot in a half long to it.

It’s an existing ground point, the factory JBL system grounds the amps and CD changer there, since I removed that whole system, harnesses and all, it was a perfect spot to place the negative cable
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