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Stroked and Blown
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2,395 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I was over at compcams.com searching around and I was wandering, which of these cams would be best for a 3.8 n/a, with ported and polished heads and intakes. No blower and no nitrous.

1) Xtreme Energy Ford 3.8 & 4.2L 268Hr112 Cam (Mild performance cam, needs spring upgrade and may require computer modifications)

2) Xtreme Energy Ford 3.8 & 4.2L 255HR112 Cam (Excellent stock replacement w/strong torque & midrange

3)Xtreme Energy Ford 3.8 & 4.2L 259HR115 Cam (Excellent stock replacement for Super Coupe, strong torque)
 

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Pedal Faster
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2,658 Posts
Good question. Also, I'd like to know how wild you can go with the cam on a speed density car.

Anybody?
 

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The Parts Guy
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7,360 Posts
...which of these cams would be best for a 3.8 n/a, with ported and polished heads and intakes. No blower and no nitrous.
How high to you want to rev it? Stock shortblock, torque converter, and gears?

Josh_Keady said:
Also, I'd like to know how wild you can go with the cam on a speed density car.
Josh, you really can't do much at all with the speed density system. I'd definitely switch over to a MAF system before thinking about a cam, so that it doesn't limit your choices.

-Rod
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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2,261 Posts
One thing I found out that when you change cams is that you may have to change your push rods as well as your valve springs, depending in the difference between the old cam and the new one.

Also, are you changing rockers? That will also have to be part of the geometry question.
 

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Stroked and Blown
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2,395 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
One thing I found out that when you change cams is that you may have to change your push rods as well as your valve springs, depending in the difference between the old cam and the new one.

Also, are you changing rockers? That will also have to be part of the geometry question.


I don't know. I only want a better cam to go with the ported/polished intakes and heads. Nobody told me anything about changing the rods. I didn't plan on rebuilding the whole engine from the bottom up. Anyways, maybe the dude at the machine shop can recommend a cam
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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2,261 Posts
I didn't mean to rain on your parade. I ran into the same thing myself. I got a cam and thought all I had to do was shove it in. More experienced people here said to run the cam specs past a company that makes rods or rockers and tell them what you are doing as far as cam specs, valves, valve springs, and rockers. You may need shorter or longer rods. If shorter, you just can't cut down the stock rods. It just don't work that way.

Just trying to save you some grief.
 

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Stroked and Blown
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2,395 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I didn't mean to rain on your parade. I ran into the same thing myself. I got a cam and thought all I had to do was shove it in. More experienced people here said to run the cam specs past a company that makes rods or rockers and tell them what you are doing as far as cam specs, valves, valve springs, and rockers. You may need shorter or longer rods. If shorter, you just can't cut down the stock rods. It just don't work that way.

Just trying to save you some grief.
Here's the specs on the cam I'm interested in:

210 degree 218 degree @ .050 .500 .500 112 degree


How do I know if I will need new rods for this cam? What kind of car did you have that you had to change the rods with the cam.

Edit, I just got off the phone with compperformance and they said I shouldn't have to change the rods with the 44-702-9 cam
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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2,261 Posts
The car is my current one with an original 97 V6. I got my cam from Big Mike. I'll have to get it spec'd. I'm missing one number. it is 214/218, .483 lift both sides, and 108 LCA.

I wouldn't know about your cam. I'm also thinking of putting 1.7 or 1.8 roller rockers on which make a difference.
 
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