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Discussion Starter #1
Where is the BEST place to ground accessories? Is it the battery?

Does it matter if one has a BUNCH of grounds going to your battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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ok if doing that. but if the accessory is in the cabin or in the trunk, long cable may not be feasible.

solution? use the battery and add one 1/0 or 4 gauge cable(stereo cable, welding cable, doesn't matter to the frame with the paint scrap off, another one to the engine block optional), then the accessory you can ground anywhere on the chasis with the paint scarp off.

any specific place you need to know just let us know and see what can we help.

maybe more info what you are trying to connect and where may help a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks.

For instance my aux radiator fan. When I ground to the chassis it doesn't run nearly as strong as if I ground it directly to the battery.

Im about to add a tranny cooler with a fan also. Where should I ground that fan? And for instance all my gauges (wideband,water temp, oil temp etc).
 

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PostSlut
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awdRocks said:
Thanks.

For instance my aux radiator fan. When I ground to the chassis it doesn't run nearly as strong as if I ground it directly to the battery.

Im about to add a tranny cooler with a fan also. Where should I ground that fan? And for instance all my gauges (wideband,water temp, oil temp etc).
then you would need to add a ground from your battery directly to the frame...maybe under 10 inches if possible
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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awdRocks said:
Thanks.

For instance my aux radiator fan. When I ground to the chassis it doesn't run nearly as strong as if I ground it directly to the battery.

Im about to add a tranny cooler with a fan also. Where should I ground that fan? And for instance all my gauges (wideband,water temp, oil temp etc).

in this case ground at the battery seems to be the best idea. but on top of that please buy some extra cable as i mentioned before to ground one to the chasis and one more to the engine block. it'll help the rest of the electrical big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Casper said:
in this case ground at the battery seems to be the best idea. but on top of that please buy some extra cable as i mentioned before to ground one to the chasis and one more to the engine block. it'll help the rest of the electrical big time.
Ok then go from battery to chassis, and that same cable from chassis to block?

Or one cable from battery to chassis and another cable from battery to block?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
FordFanatic said:
sounds like you need to upgrade the big three
Cool!!! Ill do the big 3 right away. At just idle my interior lights dim, and at night with my lights on and my AC blasting my volt meter will drop as low as 11.8-12.1 :eek:
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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awdRocks said:
Ok then go from battery to chassis, and that same cable from chassis to block?

Or one cable from battery to chassis and another cable from battery to block?
both way are acceptable depending which way you like. both way will just give the current extra path to flow through to provide extra umph to the charging sytem.

if you can add anothe 4 gauge or even 1/0 gauge if you can fit from altenator to battery positive with fused setup in between where the fused is closed to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Casper said:
if you can add anothe 4 gauge or even 1/0 gauge if you can fit from altenator to battery positive with fused setup in between where the fused is closed to the battery.
For the big 3 is it best to try and get a 1/0 wire to all three or mainly just the alt-to-battery positive and the other two 4 gauge?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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the bigger the cable the more juice it can squezze out from the charging system even if the 0.001 volts matter to you. it's call the reserved power mindset. 4 gauge is the minimum you want to go to make the work worthwhile to spend the time you put in there.

since you gonna do it go big or go how because the cost difference between 4 gauge and 1/0 gauge cable is almost negligible so it's no brainer to use bigger cable right?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok im going 1/0.

I just got back from the store and found some awesome big truck battery terminals. The ends have two bolts that will allow the bigger o-ring connectors the 1/0 wire requires.

The bottom bolt of my alternator has the bigger bolt that will also be perfect for the 1/0 connector. The BIG 3 write up says:

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine


Is this right:

1) Battery negative to chassis
Can I connect to the inside of the fender well, the thinner sheet metal? Of course shaving off all paint.

2) Alternator to battery positive
I will have the external fuse closest to the battery

3) Chassis to engine
The thread says the chassis to engine is actually recommended their for simplicity and because its hard to get two 0/1 wires into a battery terminal, but that going to the battery is actually better.

The battery terminals I bought will fit two 0/1 wires on the battery terminal. So I will go battery (-) terminal to alternator ground, instead of Chassis to engine.

This all sound right?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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sounds good and you are good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Casper said:
sounds good and you are good to go.
Or is it better to ground at on the actual frame instead of the fender well?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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if you can ground at the actual frame it's even better.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well im kinda bumbed.

I just did the BIG 3 and it don't think it helped jack ditty, I MIGHT have gotton like an extra .50v. I need to do more test driving. I did all 1/0 wire and left all the stock wiring.

I went +bat to +alt with a fuse inbetween. They only had 200amp fuses (maybe thats why im not getting juiced good but I dought it).

Then -bat to alt and -bat to chassi in the same location the stock chassi ground wire goes to. I piggy backed it.

I have not crimped the connectors as tomorrow im going to weld them in. They are just pushed in right now and secured with electrical tape. I dought that would also be the reason im didnt see better volts.

It took it all off for now so I can weld in all the connectors.

Even my roof light still flickers at idle, that sucks, I thought that would be gone for sure. Volt meter reads 13.2 with lights on or so and when the AC comes on it drops down to mid 12's.

Im thinking of even leaving it out all together. I need to do some driving around town.

What gives? Time for a new alt?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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0.50 sounds about right. and i see your problem. the connector needs to be crimp.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah I cant call it out yet. I need to crimp and weld, and do some driving around town. Ill report back tomorrow hopefully with some good news. :)
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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just crimped it and no welding needed. once crimped and secure the voltage will be more stable.
 
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