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Discussion Starter #1
It is the peerless hydrostat that sits behind murray, craftsman ,etc and drives the rear wheels. It is a cast AL case in two halves. Takes 80w-90 for the diff and 20w50 motorcycle oil for the pump in two separate sections. OEM says to use Locktite 5699 (which is grey RTV). I am planning on using "The Right Stuff" grey, cause I want to get it going asap after it comes back from the welder.
A tech suggested only Permatex Ultra Blue(it does say works for oil saturated metals). Another said Ultra Grey. Both said to wait an hour and put the oil in(instructions say to wait overnight, same story as on our diffs) OEM stuff will take over a week to come. Guess it probably don't matter... Any opinions?
 

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I personally use Black on everything I have (have on my Diff covers, oil pans, and everywhere on my B&S). "Right Stuff" should be fine too. The only real difference is its ready in ~15min were as the Black gives you less than 15mins to get it together then need to wait at least an hour (for best results), though you can just slap it together without waiting--most times its cured enough for use by the time reassembly is done.

The one exception is the cooling system--wait as long as you can on that.
 

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Gray is for rigid mounting surfaces, like your cast AL. Normally I use that on Hondas, etc. The right stuff works awesome, put it together and start it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I personally use Black on everything I have (have on my Diff covers, oil pans, and everywhere on my B&S). "Right Stuff" should be fine too. The only real difference is its ready in ~15min were as the Black gives you less than 15mins to get it together then need to wait at least an hour (for best results), though you can just slap it together without waiting--most times its cured enough for use by the time reassembly is done.

The one exception is the cooling system--wait as long as you can on that.
"Right stuff" says 5 minutes to make the sandwich, torque to spec, then put in the oil.

Ultra black says to finger tighten, wait an hour, retorque, wait 24 hrs to put in oil. I guess though no one waits that long...
 

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"Right stuff" says 5 minutes to make the sandwich, torque to spec, then put in the oil.

Ultra black says to finger tighten, wait an hour, retorque, wait 24 hrs to put in oil. I guess though no one waits that long...
Not when you work in a shop and the customer wants their car back ASAP .. time is money and a service bay with a car stuck in it, isnt making any.
 

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"Right stuff" says 5 minutes to make the sandwich, torque to spec, then put in the oil.

Ultra black says to finger tighten, wait an hour, retorque, wait 24 hrs to put in oil. I guess though no one waits that long...
The only time I've waited the full time was the last time when I was wrapping up my heater core replacement, but I also install studs and a 3/8 plate to the thermostat housing (SC t-stat housing are a pain). Every other time its just put it on assemble, finish job and then fill.
 

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I vote for Right stuff. It makes a quality seal and is fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Used the Right Stuff Grey. Torqued to 10-12 ft/lbs, per spec on similar units. Left it overnight just to be sure, because the surfaces weren't precisely flat after the weld. Installed on the tractor. After 5 hours no leaks! I spread it around the flange edge to just to be sure. Looks like VERY strong stuff, not quite like regular RTV. Hopefully this is a final repair on the unit.

It was a complex pattern because 2 chambers had to be sealed off. Used the whole small cheese whiz can, everything comes out because there is a plunger with compressed air pushing a piston.

Only thing I worry is that some RTV squeezed out to the pump area and will dislodge, I was careful to use very little.
 
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