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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT:

I just got a 98 Teksid block and plan on building a forged 2V block for future build. Check the lastest postings and help me with my questions...please :)
 

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OxmanWI,

That means there is a hole in which the threads have been stripped. The solution is to bore it out and install a helicoil. Not that big of a deal - any competent machine shop could do it.

Are you planning on building a big bore? A Teksid block is the optimum starting point. As a point of reference, I paid $430 for mine, with no repairs required.
 

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The Parts Guy
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Yep, easy fix. That's a good price, too, if it doesn't shoot up right at the end of the auction.

-Rod
 

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Beer and Cheese
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7,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes I've been shopping around, there are a couple machine shops in my area that are bore worthy. Just taking it one step at a time, not jumping into any thing as of now. Thanks for the heads up! :)
 

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Beer and Cheese
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7,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yep, easy fix. That's a good price, too, if it doesn't shoot up right at the end of the auction.

-Rod
I sent him a ebay question and he is willing to end the auction early, I asked him what he wants for the block, so waiting for a response.

EDIT:

He wants $500 to end the auction

I'm going to offer $400 and see what he says.
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah he said no to my $400...

Going to watch it on "my ebay" and see what happens.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

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I can pull a short block Mark motor at pick-n-pull for about 150.00. I need to go see about making some money.

Ox. You should have come down for hte Christmas party.......
 

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Beer and Cheese
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7,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well Looks like I'll be having a 98 Teksid block on the way thanks to Mad1stGen. I have a set of PI heads that I'm going to have cleaned and P&P'd in the next couple weeks. The only thing that's really going to hurt my wallet is the forged goodies. Anyone have any good threads I can read up on? I've been reading Rods DOHC thread and couple others for the short block version. I know I'm going to need dished pistons to keep compression down with the PI heads. "H" beams are a must from what I'm reading. I’m sticking with the AED kit, but with the 9 PSI pulley. Any comments and helpful suggestions are appreciated so thanks in advanced.

I can pull a short block Mark motor at pick-n-pull for about 150.00. I need to go see about making some money.

Ox. You should have come down for hte Christmas party.......
I wish I could have made it, but the family wasn't going to have it, lol

Thanks,
 

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Understood.
 

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My first recommendation is to not drop your static compression ratio too far. You get better overall performance (better throttle response, fuel economy, etc) with more static compression and less boost, than with the opposite combination. I went with 9.3:1 static and (initially) 6 psi boost on my big bore NPI engine. Will be moving up to about 7.5 psi after break-in.

Another upgrade you should consider is to use a Cobra oil pump. You'll need the larger diameter Mark VIII pick up tube, of course.
 

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The Parts Guy
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I agree with not dropping the CR too much. I dropped mine down to 8.9:1, with plans to eventually put quite a bit of boost to that engine. I'd recommend keeping the CR somewhere around 9:1 with a PD blower.

I'm not sure about running the Cobra oil pump with the SOHC heads. Some will recommend it for the higher flow, while some will say that it will actually pump too much oil to the heads on a SOHC. I'd just recommend reading up on it before making the decision. That said, I've been very happy with the Melling Select Cobra High Output pump I'm running.

-Rod
 

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Beer and Cheese
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7,386 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
If I keep a standard bore (3.552) what "CC" dish piston would I want to go with if I where to maintain a static compression ratio of 9.7:1?

The reason I ask is...that is the stock compression for the PI engine. Is that ratio a good start?

Thanks,
 

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The Parts Guy
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If I keep a standard bore (3.552) what "CC" dish piston would I want to go with if I where to maintain a static compression ratio of 9.7:1?

Thanks,
It's going to vary a little depending on what headgaskets you run and whether or not the block or heads are decked. But generally speaking, a 16-18cc dish would keep your CR very close to 9.7:1 with the PI SOHC heads and stock bore/stroke.

-Rod
 

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The Parts Guy
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I just saw the other question you added to your post. Personally, I'd drop the CR just a bit. Once again, it will depend on your headgasket compressed thickness, headgasket bore diameter, and how far you have the pistons in the hole, but with general 4.6L numbers here you will see:

16cc ~ 9.79:1
17cc ~ 9.66:1
18cc ~ 9.53:1
19cc ~ 9.41:1
20cc ~ 9.29:1
21cc ~ 9.17:1
22cc ~ 9.05:1

If it were my choice, I would be looking to keep the CR around 9.0:1 to 9.3:1. I'd be looking for a 20-22cc dished piston. I'd also highly recommend deciding on a headgasket before ordering your pistons, and getting the necessary headgasket specs I listed above to doublecheck what the CR will be with the different dish volumes.

-Rod
 

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The Parts Guy
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Without delving way into it, decking/shaving is the process of machining the deck surfaces to acheive trueness. Basically, if your deck surfaces of the block or the heads are not perfectly flat and true, you'll need a machine shop to remove material to true up the surfaces. Removing material from the cylinder block deck surface will effect your CR by raising the top of the piston relative to the cylinder block deck surface. Removing material from the head surface will effect your CR by decreasing combustion chamber volume.

No matter what, the deck surfaces need to be spotless before the heads are installed. That isn't considered in calculating CR because it's a given.

-Rod
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Discussion Starter #20
Rod or anyone...

Is there a 4.6 build book or DVD I can buy to study up on the build after the short block is made? I really want to do it my self and save the money on labor.
 
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