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Discussion Starter #1
ok, the generator fuse under the hood on my 96 tbird 4.6 keeps blowing, it is responsible for my alternater working, when it blows my alternator just doesnt work anymore it is a 15 fuse i replace it its fine for about a day then it blows again, i do have 2 big amps and i run air ocasionally i think there is a short somwhere, my dad and i checked conections and had altenator checked out and everyt thing is good we cannot figure this out, im gettin tired of buying all of these fuses
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how would i go about fixing this problem, could i do it my self or would i have to take it to someone to do it
 

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A lot of places will check your electrical system for free. Even if a diagnosis costs a small charge, it'd be worth it, and probably save you a lot of time. But before that, I'd check your main electrical connections, such as battery posts, ground connections, alternator, etc. If there's corrosion present it can increase the current draw. Also, those two "big amps" could be part of the problem - if you don't turn them on do you still have the problem? Maybe they're just too much draw for the fuse, in which case a larger alternator and fuse would be in order...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i noticed it blows the fuse when i get on it mostly, and i dont have my amps up when it blows it most of the time, my dad checked the conections and one is a lil loose we will tighten it and see if it fixes it but we had the altenator checked and it is workin fine i have some corsion on my battery post but it has been present for a while and this problem just started happening, but most of the time it blows the fuse is when its in the higher rpms
 

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Discussion Starter #7
does the voltage regulater have to do with the single wire that goes into the altenator, because that is the one that is a lil loose
 

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Discussion Starter #9
11std its the generator fuse its a 15 amp fuse
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i need info really bad about this it is way worse, i have to buy a pack of fuses per day it goes through them like gas one after another not even that high of an rpm, cant have on amps or air and still does it
 

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Electrical problems are tough to say the least. Wires are composed of many smaller wires. If just one little hair wire is grounding, even if by accident, it will take a while to blow a fuse. If it's a direct grounding, then it will blow right now. I would re-do all you're connections if in doubt. Get the high dollar chrimper and the good heat shrink tube and the little butane torch, and do the connections just right. The same thing happens when people install a MSD ignition. The electrical problems are always hard to find at first sight, it's 99% of the time an improper connection! Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i though i found out what the problem was, i went and got a new conection for my altenator, there are two conections, and the one that i replaced was the single gray conector, i drove it after i replaced it and it blew the fuse at 4500 rpm instead of 2500 well just 20 min ago i was drivin i got up to 2500 rpm with air and amp on low and the fuse blew still, and i stoped to put an other one in and it blew as soon as i touched it to the metal and the car was off key out of ignition and i tried many combos of trien to get it to take a fuse but nothing worked so i drove it home with out a fuse in it and i cant drive it untill i get it fixed because it is the generator fuse and without it my alternator is useless, please respond quickly if it is the voltage regulator how do i fix it and also i would like a wiring diagram for the altenator if possible
 

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If you can't get it to the zone to have it checked on the car, you can take the alt off and they can bench check it. To me it sounds like the armature in the alt has grounded itself out, since it won't accept a fuse anymore.

You could also make sure the battery is charged, disconnect all alt wiring (make sure to tape up the big one that goes to the battery), replace fuse, then run the car and turn on one thing at a time; lights, AC, amps, etc. If fuse doesn't blow, you know it's the alt. If it still blows, bad wiring somewhere.

hope this helps,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well after searching about the voltage regulator i am going to buy a new one and put it on soon and see if that fixes it if not new altenator i hope its the v.r cuz its $40 instead of $150 for a new alt
 

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That 15 amp fuse protects the rotor in the alternator.

have a close look at the wire to the "A" terminal on the alternator. should be yellow with a white tracer line. Make sure it is not shorting out on something. otherwise could be in the brushes or the rotor windings.

if the wire is ok, take the alternator off and get it down to a auto electric shop you trust and have them check it out by running it up on a test bench.

wouldn't think its the regulator but there is a chance.

JD
 

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Discussion Starter #17
that is the first thing i had done before i even knew about the fuse blowing, i took it to advance auto and they said the altenator is bad and i toke it off and took it to get checked out and rebuilt and the guy said i have a perfect altenator, and i replaced the grey single plug wire in it that comes out of the other plug because it was melted threw, but i just went out and it took a fuse and ran with it, i didnt get on it to blow it cuz i didnt wanna make it screw up again but for now i can drive it if under 2 grand
 

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You could get an alt from a junk yard. Sometimes you can get away with a steal. Cheaper than a regulater. I guess that wouldn't be useful if the guy said you have a perfect alt. though.
Did you check the wiring to and from the fuse box. It sounds like something is grounding out somewhere. If it happened when the car was off than it can't be a voltage regulater. It wouldn't even be operating.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i ordered a new voltage regulator will be in tomarrow mornin hopefully it will fix it, but also my check engine light came on last night i got it scanned and they printed this out... DTC P1443 EVAP Emission Control System Cntrl Valve Malf, and also... DTC P1270 Engine RPM Vehicle Speed Limiter Reached, are those anything i need to worry about?
 

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Sorry. I Can't tell you exactly what those codes indicate. I do know that exhaust is your emissions and thay may indicate O2 sensers gone bad. Probelm with the cats, or maybe just a pcv valve. And vehicle speed limiter reached. Well sounds like your computer just told on you. Haha. Did you top out your car. However I'm not positive on this but this is what i've concluded.
Good Luck.
 
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