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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving home a little while ago when my car started overheating. So I pulled over and popped the hood, and saw a hole on the drivers side *plastic* part of the radiator towards the top:mad:

My question is, what would cause this? Maybe blockage somewhere? I will be putting in a new rad. tomorrow, as well as flushing the cooling system, just want to do as much as I can to prevent this problem again.
 

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An air pocket or a stuck closed t-stat are the first thing that come to my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i know why: 16 yrs
Yeah, your probably right.

Got the new radiator, overflow tank, and a 180* thermostat installed not too long ago. Before the swap, my temp gauge wouldn't get past the "O" in normal, before the fan kicked on. Now, the needle gets just past the "L" and the fan comes on.

Now, before, I had the OE 195* thermostat, and it was filled with anti-freeze. As of right now, I put some prestone deep clean mixed with water, to try and clean the cooling system a little bit. Tomorrow, I will be draining that, and refilling it with coolant/water. When I refill with coolant and water, should my temps drop back down?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know that the coolant just raises the boiling temp of the added water, but would it actually make the car run cooler?
 

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I know that the coolant just raises the boiling temp of the added water, but would it actually make the car run cooler?
Ahem.

The water and any additives ARE the coolant.

The ANTIFREEZE (what I presume you're miscalling "coolant") actually doesn't transfer heat as well as water does, but a) it keeps the water from freezing in the winter and b) it raises the boiling point of water, allowing it to stay liquid and cool in higher heat environs.

If you're like I am, and live where there's no really cold winters (we get below freezing, but stay above about 10F), it's not a bad idea to run 70/30 water/antifreeze or so. More like 75/25 if you run an anticorrosion additive package also.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I stand corrected then LOL. Here the past few winters it has gotten below 10* so I try to run about 60/40 or so.

I think I just have to purge some air out of the system, the needle jumps around on me a bit, but what really bothers me is the fan. It seems it comes on at higher temps than it normally would (before I swapped the rad.).
 

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Well I stand corrected then LOL. Here the past few winters it has gotten below 10* so I try to run about 60/40 or so.

I think I just have to purge some air out of the system, the needle jumps around on me a bit, but what really bothers me is the fan. It seems it comes on at higher temps than it normally would (before I swapped the rad.).
Could easily be that you've gotten the sending unit for the dash cleaned off with the flush, and it's reading a more accurate temp.

As to mix - the service manual specifies a minimum of 30% antifreeze for the 5.0 in the 1991 - I'd suggest that as long as you never get too cold in the winter, or too hot in the summer (since the antifreeze doesn't transfer heat as well as water does.)

I run into that in computers all the time - the heat sink compounds used between, say, a CPU and the heat sink don't conduct as well as the heat sink does, but a hella lot better than air does - so we try to run it as thin as possible :cool:

RwP
 

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Cheak for leaks too because at operating temp the is actually aroud 15psi of pressure in the cooling system with helps flow of water and bumbs up the boiling temp, and a leaking cooling sysytem can cause overheating
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No leaks anywhere, checked while it was warmed up after install.

It's not overheating, not even running hot, just running a little higher than it did before, but there was some gunk in the rad. and overflow tank so I imagine it is just reading the correct temps. now that I cleaned the cooling system out.
 
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