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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I am going to an LKQ to pull a few body parts that I need, and hopefully they still have. I have a couple questions:

Left fender: are there any hidden bolts to get the thing off? I am assuming the wheel and splash shields have to come off. I need the shields anyway.

Front bumper cover: same thing, are there any hidden bolts? I did replace a header panel on Brenda's old '96, and I remember drilling those stupid rivets out that hold it to the top of the header panel. How do you reattach it there? Do they sell those large rivets? I know I never did attach it well on the old '96.

I will have to re-attach the Styrofoam bumper support, which is still 90% complete. Just epoxy?

I also have the unenviable task of straightening the steel bumper support on the corner. Have to get creative there!

Thanks in advance!
Al
 

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Fender:




Bumper Cover/Support:



 
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Discussion Starter #3
I can't view the pics, must be Photobucket. Thanks though. I found the hidden ones for the bumper cover. - two behind the splashguard and a tiny one behind the parking light.

It's all a moot point. I found that the bumper structure is bent to the right slightly. Anyone ever have one straightened at a body shop?

I am sure it can be done, but body shops are $$. Anyone ever replace a front bumper structure with one from a donor car?

Al
 

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Replacing the bumper bar is not bad, but if that is bent you want to make 100% sure that the frame rail didn't move or buckle. Take some diagonal measurements from the rear upper fender bolt to the hood bumpers to make sure they are the same side to side. If they are, then you can proceed. If they aren't, then you have to bring it to the shop before cutting anything off. As for removing the bumper bar, it is just a few spot welds holding it to the frame rail, but it is thick metal, so you will be a while drilling through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As for removing the bumper bar, it is just a few spot welds holding it to the frame rail, but it is thick metal, so you will be a while drilling through it.
Eight each side to be exact. I wonder if two fully charged 14.4v batteries will last to drill all those out at a junkyard?

The problem is, I will have already used up some juice on the foam bumper support, and anywhere else that has rivets - plastic or otherwise. Is there an easier way to remove those, and a place to buy replacements? The bumper cover has 3 or 4 of them holding it to the header panel.

Also, is there a good place to buy those black plastic anchors that have a flat push pin in the center? They hold on the splashguards, etc. Those are some of my favorites. Once they are in there for 20 years, they don't want to come out so easy.

Al
 

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Also, is there a good place to buy those black plastic anchors that have a flat push pin in the center? They hold on the splashguards, etc. Those are some of my favorites. Once they are in there for 20 years, they don't want to come out so easy.

Al
Most parts houses will have assortments of those.

Also, you can buy them at places like https://www.auveco.com/ .

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, thanks. What is the proper way to remove them, pull the pin with pliers? That seems to work, but only on the ones that have been removed, and already 1/2 ruined.

Al
 

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Okay, thanks. What is the proper way to remove them, pull the pin with pliers? That seems to work, but only on the ones that have been removed, and already 1/2 ruined.

Al
I bought a set of trim and pin removal tools at Harbor Freight. I don't see the exact ones I bought, but here are the alternatives. 5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set
 

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If you are pulling it in a junkyard, just sawzall through the frame rails and bring the whole thing home in one piece.
 

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If I was at a pull-a-part type yard I'd do what Mikey suggested and just cut it. I would not worry about drilling the rivets where the bumper cover meets the header. Just snap the plastic header panel (they're usually broken anyhow) and drill all that stuff at home.

I have a tool like this for those plastic rivets. Pull the center pin straight up then pull the rivet. I'm pretty sure Lowe's sells them, or you can just harvest some while you are at the junkyard. I've seen many vehicles that use them for the bumper cover at the header panel (minivans, suvs, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a tool like this for those plastic rivets. Pull the center pin straight up then pull the rivet.
Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but I'm not seeing a center pin on those rivets.

I may have a line on a place that has a bumper rebar, and I might just pick up an aftermarket header panel. Anyone have luck with aftermarket fenders?

Guess I'll go to the junkyard and see what I can get first.

Thanks,
Al
 

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If you look in the pic of the tool ^^, the far right hand fastener shown there is like what holds in the inner fender. The center pin comes straight up and allows the rivet to be removed.
 

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Given how cheap a factory used fender is, I would stick with that instead of an aftermarket one. Once installed, the aftermarket one will be fine, but you will likely have to drill out and elongate mounting holes to get everything lined up properly. I did use an aftermarket header panel on my buddy's 94 Tbird, since I couldn't find a used OEM one that wasn't cracked somewhere, and after a little time and tweaking, I got everything to line up nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you look in the pic of the tool ^^, the far right hand fastener shown there is like what holds in the inner fender. The center pin comes straight up and allows the rivet to be removed.
Yes, I am familiar with that kind, just picked up a tool for them.

The weird one's are those plastic "rivets" that hold the bumper cover to the header panel. The only solution I see is "break and replace", though they didn't have any like that at the CARQUEST. I don't know exactly what they look like because I have never seen one intact off the car. They also hold the black plastic engine cover to the bumper cover.

I am planning on getting a used factory fender, and anything else factory parts if possible. I wish I had a cordless Sawzall for the bumper, mine is AC. May have to hit up Harbor Freight.

Al
 

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I was thinking the ones holding the cover the the header were aluminum? I replaced them with those same plastic rivets the inner fender gets.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I too though they were alum on Brenda's car, but that was a long time ago. If the other style works, that's fine with me, but I think the hole is smaller.

Al
 

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I was thinking the ones holding the cover the the header were aluminum? I replaced them with those same plastic rivets the inner fender gets.
I too though they were alum on Brenda's car, but that was a long time ago. If the other style works, that's fine with me, but I think the hole is smaller.

Al
I can't prove they are original, but the ones on my '95 are plastic, although one is missing, and I don't know if has always been so, or if somehow it popped out after a run-in with a cement parking lot light standard. I'm going to the Ford dealer today to pick up some touch up paint. I'll see what I can find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is the steel part of the bumper (17757) the same for 1994-1997? I got a line on one that I am checking out tomorrow.

Thanks,
Al
 

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Yes, the bumper bar is the same for all year MN12s.
 
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