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Discussion Starter #1
What did you do to get it out? I've sprayed PB Blaster around the edge. I've hammer blowed the ears on both sides. I even put some leverage against it and broke the ear on one side. I'm only removing it to change out the nipple, but now I wonder if that will be welded in too. I would like to reuse it since it checks out good. If it doesn't come out tonight, I think I'll just shorten the nipple and use a pre-curved hose to the pi coolant tube. Any usefull suggestions , anyone?
 

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if smackin it on the bolt ears don't work, you may have to hit the pulley mount to get it to seperate

once it is away from the block, you can use a prybar
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've been driving my Chevy for two weeks while I waited for my parts. I have also periodically tried to get that water pump off. I do want to re-use it , so what ways can I leverage it off without possibly damaging the inner bearings and seals? One guy says he hit the split between the pump and block with a screwdriver until he saw a separation. My book just says remove pump after bolts are off. Mine has only four. Are there any more success stories out there?
 

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If you don't have a dead blow use a regular hammer and a chunk of 2x4
 

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I've been driving my Chevy for two weeks while I waited for my parts. I have also periodically tried to get that water pump off. I do want to re-use it , so what ways can I leverage it off without possibly damaging the inner bearings and seals? One guy says he hit the split between the pump and block with a screwdriver until he saw a separation. My book just says remove pump after bolts are off. Mine has only four. Are there any more success stories out there?
just keep smacking the ****er till it falls off, dont pry.
 

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Long shot but you could use a torch to heat the block around it which should expand the metal slightly
 

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Mine came out with 5-6 blows from a large hammer. I thought there were more than 4 bolts but I may be mistaken.

Joe
 

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Double check to make sure you've got the right 4 bolts... I did this on the 4V and found out that one of the bolts I removed was the front cover only, there was one still left in the water pump. I think it was the one on the lower left, they're about a 1/2" apart iirc.
 

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I carefully used a wedge between the block. I didn't pry, I just tapped it in until is seperated. Probably the other ways are better, but it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Forgive my ignorance, but just what exactly is a dead blow hammer? I have a claw hammer. I once had a solid lead hammer,but I haven't been able to find another.I have struck the water pump at least thirty times by now hitting against a thick piece of plastic,but my hammer only weighs around four pounds.I have even put the point of a screw driver at the seam,but have only dug into the housing farther so far. Is my water pump just routine, or is it a super villain?
Is a dead blow hammer something fiercely heavy? I can't believe that all our T-birds were engineered to be so difficult. In my lifetime I have removed countless water pumps, and they all seemed to be begging to come off!
 

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A modular pump doesn't just sit on the face of the block like a 302 it actually slides inside and is sealed with an o-ring. Consequently wacking it on one side or the other just kind of jams it

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just quick checked. My hammer's more like under two pounds. Also, I have been stiking it from more than just one side or angle. But, the picture above is very useful in trying to understand the issue. Is there an official method to remove the pump as stated by Ford? Also, I am going to shop for a dead blow hammer after work today, so just how heavy a hammer have you guys used? thanks.
 

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A dead blow hammer isn't all that heavy. It is generally a soft faced mallet type with steel shot in the head, but not filled, so when you swing it and it hits, then all the steel shot in the head keeps going and adds to the blow.

I didn't know what to expect when I pulled mine either, I didn't have the replacement yet. I finally figured out that you have to go all the way around it and if the block is corroded in any way that you have to really work it out, and I had very little corrosion on the block or the pump, and I ended up breaking off a couple of the ears.
 

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The hammer I have looks something like this. Its a 5lb hammer.

Joe
 

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to the original poster....a dead blow also means what it says....dead blow.
When you hit the hammer on a surface, it will not bounce back.
 

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These waterpumps are hard to remove; this is the only engine part I ever removed with a hammer.

Like the guys said above, work it out, one side at a time...and the best thing is that the sealing surface is inside the pocket in the engine, not the gap where you want to put a prybar.

I broke the ears off mine too. :) that makes it a lot tougher...try not to do that.

Remember to clean up the bore with a scotchbrite pad and rub silicone grease in the bore before you put the new one in; otherwise, the new o-ring won't seat...(read that here, somewhere)

Good luck, and try not to miss with the hammer. :D
 
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