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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys just a quick general question on possible build-ups, that would get me to the3 350hp mark. id prefer it to be N/A but all ideas and concepts are welcome
 

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Beer and Cheese
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7,386 Posts
For a 2V:

99-04 PI Mustang engine (ebay or some place)
-Alum block for weight savings
-might want to forge

Some kind of cold air intake

P&P heads with bigger valves (bunch or places)

Aggressive cam shafts with springs (comp or other)

Some kind of high flow aftermarket intake manifold (SVO or Trick Flow)

High flow exhaust (kooks headers, high flow cats, x-pipe)

bigger then stock injectors, fuel pump with better MAF

SCT dyno tune




Gerbil with wheel (a must)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have gotta get one of them gerbils!!! lmao. what kinda price range am i looking at with that build?
 

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Beer and Cheese
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I'm the wrong person to ask, but if you do most of the work yourself you're going to safe a lot of money. I basically went off of what I saw in my SHM book.
 

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not to mention that you'll need some real steep gearing to utilize the powerband of aggressive camshafts.....no less than 4.10s.....aggressive cams dont mean squat unless your crossing the line at a very high RPM in 3rd gear..........so you'll need a built rear end.....also a new transmission so you dont grenade your current one....plus a good driveshaft to handle the extended RPMs in 3rd gear......and of course you need a high stall torque converter to jump into the powerband quick off the line.....and the mandatory trans cooler......so you're lookin at around $3000-$4000 just in drivetrain mods alone

at the engine, even if you only want 350 BHP (at the crank, not wheels), its gonna be a heck of a lot more expensive if you go the N/A route, especially if you dont know how to do it yourself and have some shop do it all for you....and of course it depends if you buy stuff new or used, like heads, cams, intake manifold, etc.......think around $4000-$6000 to have a shop do it

of course you could just order an SVO supercharger and add a meth injection kit and be done with it....RobertP is making right around 350 RWHP with one, and is in the high 11s

so you need to answer this: can you do all this work yourself? ......is it going to be N/A or power-adder?......are you gonna buy the parts new or used?......do you want 350 BHP or 350 RWHP?
 

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I don't think you can get the 2V to 350RWHP N/A in this chassis and still be streetable. Thats a 7000-7500 rpm HP peak needed I would imagine. At the crank its doable if you can also run a small 9.5" or so converter. Otherwise you need a blower.
 

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PI engine swap and 150 hp nitrous shot. :thumbsup:

Just saying you want 350 hp really doesn't help much. It all depends on how you want to use the 350 hp. Do you want 350 hp with a flat torque curve from idle to redline (which will be hard to get N/A'd) basically for street, or do you want 350 hp with a very peaky torque curve that has you going through the traps at 7K rpm and a slug below 3000 rpm?

Defining the REAL intended function is IMHO one of the hardest tasks in modifying a car. :beek:

Just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

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Trumpeter Extraordinaire
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i have gotta get one of them gerbils!!! lmao. what kinda price range am i looking at with that build?
I don't think gerbils and wheels cost too much....maybe $5 to $10 total, depending on the brand of the wheel. This does not include a cage, or consumables, such as food, 'bedding,' etc.
 

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If money wasn’t really a concern, going DOHC would get you there without tooo much motor work. Probably just a set of aftermarket camshafts would net 350hp at the crank with the cobra intake and a proper exhaust. I’ve seen vids of mach 1's with just basically bolt on’s making over 300hp at the wheels.
 

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All these replies about PI heads. If you're gunning for this power level, you need SVO heads, period.
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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I don't think you can get the 2V to 350RWHP N/A in this chassis and still be streetable. Thats a 7000-7500 rpm HP peak needed I would imagine. At the crank its doable if you can also run a small 9.5" or so converter. Otherwise you need a blower.
I don't know if I agree with you on this. We will find out this spring where my N/A 2V is HP wise, but I think I will be close to the 340 range N/A with this chassis. My car is streetable and does not need to reach 7000 RPM.
 

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If you can do 340RWHP N/A below 7000RPM through an automatic and IRS you have one of the best 2V builds I know of. That is 11 second potential.
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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If you can do 340RWHP N/A below 7000RPM through an automatic and IRS you have one of the best 2V builds I know of. That is 11 second potential.
This is my Dyno Graph from Aug 2006.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showpost.php?p=840950&postcount=34

Differences between the car then and now. At that time, the car had very little run time, PI intake, 2.5" Compression bent exhaust with no crossover. That was uncorrected on a Mustang Dyno in 95 weather, actually the Jeep I had said 101 when the car was on the dyno with 100% humidity. It rained not long after the car came off the dyno.

The car now has 10,000 - 15,000 miles on it now, 3" Compression bent exhaust with a X-Pipe and might have a ported SVO intake on it. I fully intend to get the car on a Dyno-Jet, the day before I take it to the track for the first time with this combo. The weather should be around 70 and a lot less humidity.

I am hopeful that I will achieve 340 RWHP. We will see...
 

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This is my Dyno Graph from Aug 2006.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showpost.php?p=840950&postcount=34

Differences between the car then and now. At that time, the car had very little run time, PI intake, 2.5" Compression bent exhaust with no crossover. That was uncorrected on a Mustang Dyno in 95 weather, actually the Jeep I had said 101 when the car was on the dyno with 100% humidity. It rained not long after the car came off the dyno.

The car now has 10,000 - 15,000 miles on it now, 3" Compression bent exhaust with a X-Pipe and might have a ported SVO intake on it. I fully intend to get the car on a Dyno-Jet, the day before I take it to the track for the first time with this combo. The weather should be around 70 and a lot less humidity.

I am hopeful that I will achieve 340 RWHP. We will see...


I hope you hit over 300 i havnt heard any numbers from a big bore 5.0 2v yet.

Make sure to make a thread when you do dyno it.:D
 

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If money wasn’t really a concern, going DOHC would get you there without tooo much motor work. Probably just a set of aftermarket camshafts would net 350hp at the crank with the cobra intake and a proper exhaust. I’ve seen vids of mach 1's with just basically bolt on’s making over 300hp at the wheels.

mach 1s make over 300hp with just exhaust and tune:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well if i can hit 350 at the crank ill be happy. i just want something more aggressive. i dont want any steep gearing cuz i love my highway gearing. i just want more pep.
 

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This is my Dyno Graph from Aug 2006.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showpost.php?p=840950&postcount=34

Differences between the car then and now. At that time, the car had very little run time, PI intake, 2.5" Compression bent exhaust with no crossover. That was uncorrected on a Mustang Dyno in 95 weather, actually the Jeep I had said 101 when the car was on the dyno with 100% humidity. It rained not long after the car came off the dyno.

The car now has 10,000 - 15,000 miles on it now, 3" Compression bent exhaust with a X-Pipe and might have a ported SVO intake on it. I fully intend to get the car on a Dyno-Jet, the day before I take it to the track for the first time with this combo. The weather should be around 70 and a lot less humidity.

I am hopeful that I will achieve 340 RWHP. We will see...

With a big bore you do have a chance I think. Are you getting JL's ported intake (if not you should) I should probably amend my first statement to not possible on a 2V without a big bore. A big bore block and matching pistons alone costs triple my 2V motor build that should be at 300RWHP.
 

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well if i can hit 350 at the crank ill be happy. i just want something more aggressive. i dont want any steep gearing cuz i love my highway gearing. i just want more pep.

With a 94 get a real converter, PI head and intake swap (need the compression increase), and a real tune IMHO.
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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With a big bore you do have a chance I think. Are you getting JL's ported intake (if not you should) I should probably amend my first statement to not possible on a 2V without a big bore. A big bore block and matching pistons alone costs triple my 2V motor build that should be at 300RWHP.
I have KDanner's ported SVO. It is being port matched to the heads. I may have it in time to install on the car before I get to the track this spring. I have been debating buying JL's intake as well, to see which is better...
 
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