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From looking at it its a 94/95 never checked or asked a year.
174000 miles. 4.6

Lost keys but have title, swore it ran perfect. Have all maintaince done on or before time. I scanned thru about 1000 reciepts.

Old couple just dont want it anymore. Missimg 1 tail light. Nothings broke but i think there daughter took it for her bird. Been on long trips 1000 miles+ alot. Never abused or smoked in.

Its white with blueish interior.

Has the traction switch so im assuming it has a locker.

Checked the rear it has 3.73's im pretty sure thats what it said.

Is there anything i need to know or look for before buying it. It may need freshing up with new seals etc bee sitting a year but 600$ is a good steal. I know these elderly people and they just sell good cars they dont want no more. My friend bought a 05 vic interceptor for 1000 and a older blazer for 900 both ran perfect in good condition so there not money hungry.

I will be inspecting control arm bushings and balljoints(my balljoint failed right after purchase on my bird)

Also how can i start this car w/o a key without doing damage. I at least want to hear it run. I thought if i get it running i ould cut the shift interlock cable and be able to move it back and forth a bit checking transmission.

Also is there a way to put a new ignition switch in if theres no key and wheel is in lock position?
 

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The traction control witch usually indicated an open diff, not a locker. Also no mn-12 came factory with 3.73s, so it likely has either 3.08s, or possibly 3.27s. If it really is clean, then $600 is a fair price.
 

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Here is a link to the TCCoA gear ratio chart. You will find the sticker on the driver's door jam.

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/gears/gears.html

The "Traction Assist" switch on the dash works with the ABS to pulse apply the rear brakes to combat tire spin on slick surfaces. It only works at speeds (iirc) under about 20mph. When you first turn the car on it defaults to "ON". Pushing the switch sends a voltage signal to the ABS control module to shut the TA "OFF".

To replace the lost key:

1. Call a locksmith.

2. Give a Ford dealership the VIN number, and ask them if they can find the key code. (Might take awhile/or their unable since the car is two decades old.)

3. With the proper size bit, drill out the push pin on the steering column, and install a new ignition lock cylinder/key. Replace the drilled out push pin with a roll pin. If you go this route make sure you use a brand new drill bit the exact same size as the push pin. Make sure you use a drill bit that is designed to cut metal, and the bit is spinning in the right direction. Take your time drilling. The pin is hard steel. Note too, that replacing the push pin with a roll pin is a onetime deal. Once the roll pin is in place it wont push anymore.

4. Replace the whole steering column/steering wheel with one from the junkyard etc... that has a key. If you decide to do it this way disconnect the battery, and wait 30 minutes for the capacitor(s) for the air bag to discharge before making the swap.

The brake/shifter/ignition switch interlock cable can be disconnected at the shifter assembly. Remove the center floor console, and the four bolts holding the shifter to the floor. You will find the cable attached to the right of the shifter assembly.

With the cable attachment disconnected you can move the shifter without a key, and without stepping on the brakes. Also, with this cable disconnected, and with a key, you can turn the ignition switch without pressing the brake pedal.
 

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Sounds like a good deal! That is fishy that they lost the keys, and didn't have a spare.

Gotta be the 3.08 and one-wheel peel deal.

Al
 

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1) If these folks are old so I wouldnt put it past them to lose the keys and forget about it.
2) It all depends on what the current owner will allow you to do. You should be able to pop out the ignition switch and turn the car on/off without the lock assembly.


On one hand, you could try and convince the owners that noone will buy this car without seeing it run and get them to agree to a price provided you hear it idle.

OTOH, you could turn the engine by hand suing a socket on the crank (or bump the starter by hotwiring it) to make sure the engine turns over and use the fact that the car doesn't run to push the price down even further.

I'd probably take the later route and offer to pay less to take the car away AS-IS. Less bother for them and it doesnt sound like they are trying to maximize the $$$.

-g
 

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Look around under the car and behind the rear wheel wells. Maybe someone forgot they had stashed a hide a key somewhere.
 
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