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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1997 LX 3.8... and my "Service Engine Soon" light came on a few weeks ago. I didn't think anything of it, and drove with it like that for a few days. Well, after it not going off, it started to get on my nerves. So I took it to Advance a week or so ago, and had the scan for codes. They said that my "cam shaft sensor" is bad. So I purchased a new one for $30.00. When I opened my Haynes book, I couldn't find anything on replacing the camshaft senor. I say crankshaft sensor and other odd-n-ends, but nothing about the cam shaft sensor. Will someone please tell me what I need to do, to replace this part.

Thank you!

-Kornhaus
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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im pretty sure that our 3.8s dont have a cam position sensor. the sc's do, however. what was the code number that the scanner coughed up?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't a clue what the code was. Well, I guess I will take this this thing back and tell them to rescan the computer.

Thank you!

-Kornhaus
 

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big mike said:
im pretty sure that our 3.8s dont have a cam position sensor. the sc's do, however. what was the code number that the scanner coughed up?
96/97s do, the only thing they lack from being an SC are a blower and Forged internals.
 

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And upgraded drivetrain, and springs, an... *gets shot*
 

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brokenmachines_e2 said:
And upgraded drivetrain, and springs, an... *gets shot*
Point was the engine.

But hey Scott, Autozone will tell ya the code for free, and if is the Cam Sensor swing by here and I'll let ya borrow my book(s) if I can't make it on the 19th.
 

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It's a 10 minute replacement job for the sensor portion of the camshaft position sensor. Two screws (7mm hex I believe), pull it off, unplug, plug in new one, and screw it back down. I just replaced the one on my SC last week. My code was 332, Cylinder Identification Error. Cleared it up. Now all I need to do is fix my EGR related codes. Try getting to the EGR valve on an SC. Yeah...right....
 

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bowez said:
Point was the engine.
sorry, i was being a smartass. text doesnt convey sarcasm quite as well as it should.
 

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rustyul said:
It's a 10 minute replacement job for the sensor portion of the camshaft position sensor. Two screws (7mm hex I believe), pull it off, unplug, plug in new one, and screw it back down. I just replaced the one on my SC last week. My code was 332, Cylinder Identification Error. Cleared it up. Now all I need to do is fix my EGR related codes. Try getting to the EGR valve on an SC. Yeah...right....
Ah thats easy the books make is sound a bit more delicate than that (ie: lineing everything up)
 

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You only have to line it up if you screw with the housing/oil pump shaft alignment. Just putting on the sensor you dont have to mess with that, which is great :)
-Rob
 

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knock sensor too! :D

Yeah the cam sensor bolts right on top of the shaft, easy replacement. It controls the fuel injector timing.

-Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, upon removing the sensor today, I found that I have a much larger problem than I first thought. Apparently the sensor broke apart completely on the inside (magnet) and destroyed the sychronizer assembly! I called Advance Auto and O'Reilies, and they both said it is a item only available from Ford. Therefore, I have to take my car to the dealership (or should I say STEALERSHIP) and pay someone to do the work. Isn't that a crock of *****!!!!!!!!!!!!! URGH... it makes me angry!!!

-Kornhaus
 

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I have a complete cam sensor assembly from sensor to pump shaft off my 90 sc. The car was unstartable when I bought it but I suspected the crank sensor to be bad, the cam sensor should be good, as well as the synchronizer, if you need it let me know, we'll work out a price. I thought about using it with other stuff from the sc to convert to DIS but I decided not to.
-Thomas
 

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Offer still stands just probably have to do it in the dark.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
bowez said:
Offer still stands just probably have to do it in the dark.
Well, it isn't that I need help installing the sensor. I could have replaced that in 15 minutes. But after removing the sensor, I noticed it was completely shattered on the inside. Therefore, bending the synchronizer assembly... which is what I am after now. The Haynes manual says I must have the engine 26 degress ATDC (after top dead center). That is what I am not familiar with. That, and I don't know where to by the synchronizer assembly from! Advance and O'Rileys were no help!

Calling Dan Newman...

Can you help!? If so, what type of price am I looking at?!

-Kornhaus
 

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i have the same problem with my 96 3.8. i haven't done anything yet because the car is running fine. I would like to know what the end result is with ur case and what the total cost came out to. Pls let me know because i am going to take care of this soon. Another question if i take it to the dealer do u think that they will do a good job or will they screw the car up more. My car doesn't have any problems other than that check engine light. The code i came up with was 340 camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction bank one. U can email at [email protected]
 

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Getting to 26* is not that hard.

The offical name is Camshaft Positioning Sensor Housing
T2A362 (reference part number)
Looks like either dealer parts counter or Dan for this one though.

My Shop Manaul gives a slightly different procedure, using positioning tool (T96-P-12200-A).

Oh word of note the Hayes manual used a 89 T-bird.

Tino, yours may just be the sensor and not the housing too in that case its only a $30 part.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sweet!!! If I can order this part before the meet... do you think you could help me get to 26 degrees? If we can do that, I can install/do the rest.

-Kornhaus


bowez said:
Getting to 26* is not that hard.

The offical name is Camshaft Positioning Sensor Housing
T2A362 (reference part number)
Looks like either dealer parts counter or Dan for this one though.

My Shop Manaul gives a slightly different procedure, using positioning tool (T96-P-12200-A).

Oh word of note the Hayes manual used a 89 T-bird.

Tino, yours may just be the sensor and not the housing too in that case its only a $30 part.
 

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Sure, no problem.
 

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when you guys do the repair let me know how it turns out and the steps that u went through to get there. I would really appreciate the info. Especially the part where u have to get the 26 degrees after top dead center. thanks again tino
 
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